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SBO ‘22 - Goldilocks Z - Assembly

J Posega

Cat Dad and Dingwall Enthusiast
Inactive
Suspended
Jul 16, 2005
11,796
17,172
38
Portland, OR
Here is my entry into the Assembly category for the Summer '22 Build-Off.

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Pictured:
  • Swamp ash over alder lightweight Warmoth short-scale Z body (from their showcase)
  • Ebony over maple medium-scale (32") Warmoth neck finish in nitro (from the TB classifieds)
  • Hipshot Fender-mount A-style bridge (from the TB classifieds)
  • EMG Geezer PJ pickups [and assorted wiring] (from Reverb)
  • Gotoh GB707 tuners (from the TB classifieds)
  • Dunlop Strap-Lok buttons (from Reverb)
  • Screws, neck place, and pickup foam from True Custom Shop (on Reverb)
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Not pictured:
  • Rubio Monocoat for finish (color to be revealed at a later date - arriving by mail soon)
  • D'addario EXL220BT super light balanced tension nickel strings (.95-.40)
  • Dingwall 4-way rotary pickup selector (in my parts box somewhere)
  • All of my tools for assembly and finishing
Not yet ordered:
  • Dual battery box
  • Shielding (debating tape vs. paint if I can order a small quantity of paint)
  • Knobs
 
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Project Description:
Well, it's a pretty straightforward finish-and-assembly project. I first got the neck for a great price in the classifieds and the rest of the parts fell into place. The neck is finished in vintage nitro which is a gross shade of yellow and will be removed. I'll probably refinish the back in whatever the popular neck oil is, and the front of the headstock will be finished to match the body. I will likely fill the truss rod cover screw holes since I always lose truss rod covers anyway.

I own basses of various scale lengths (multiscale 35"-32" scale 5 string; 34" scale 4 and 5 strings, 30" scale 4 and 6 strings, 28" scale 4 string), and briefly owned a Squier Jaguar H which is 32" scale. This bass confirmed that medium-scale is cool and sounds/plays differently enough from the rest of my basses, but I needed the money more than I needed the bass and flipped it.

I've assembled many parts basses over the years. I used to have a pretty bad habit of buying cheap basses to setup, swap parts, and eventually flip. I don't think there's a single FSO that didn't get at least one part swapped out on it.

I have long planned on a Warmoth G-bass medium-scale, but they didn't have a routed body. This Z is fully routed and I was hesitant about the shape at first. Once it arrived and I saw the grain and felt how light it is, I was sold. And with the finish I'm planning, I think it's going to look pretty unique. Rubio Monocoat is apparently dead easy to apply, and I can do so in my small Los Angeles apartment with the windows open and a fan on.

The bass is routed for a dual battery box which isn't something I'd normally utilize. But since I've got to put the actual battery box in it, I'm thinking, "Hey, why not put a preamp in the bass? You don't have any active basses..." So, the bass may be getting activated (activized?) or I may just put a buffer circuit in it.

I love the simplicity of the Dingwall rotary switch and put them into all the dual-pickup projects I tinker with. It takes the guesswork and overthinking out of the two pickup setup. I also hate blend knobs.

I don't subscribe to the idea that 32" scale is "just right" compared to 34" or 30" scale, it just seemed a fitting name for something that fits nicely in the middle.

I imagine this won't take a great deal of time to assemble in total, but I'll mostly be working on it during weeknights after I'm done with my day job, as weekends are spent with my fiancée and cat.
 
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Just as I expected, the current color is too saturated. Much more of a Barbie pink, where I’m going for shell pink. I’m gonna order some white Rubio Monocoat and try mixing specific dilutions to get to the color I want.

You really don’t need a lot to get good coverage with this stuff. I put on a couple drops and covered that whole face of my scrap. I’ve learned a valuable lesson and will tape off small sections on the other side so I can test various mixes of pink and white.
 
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Been busy with… well, nothing but work and waiting for my next shipment of RMC to arrive.

Did some more tests last night and this morning.

Winning right now is 4 parts white, 1 part piglet, and 1 part pure. Pure is a non-pigmented clear.

My goal is basically a satin/matte translucent shell pink.

I’m gonna try 5:1:1 and 5:1:2 white: pink: pure later today.

edited because of emojis
 
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IMHO shell pink is quite a bit lighter than your 4:1:1, I'd try 10:1:1 and see what you get. :thumbsup:
I just tried 5:1:2 and 5:1:3 (white, pink, pure). I've got a couple more tests to run. But I like the 5:1:2 mix.

I will be trying a much lighter version (8:1:2), including diluting the pink with more clear and less white (2:1:4, 2:1:8) to see what that looks like.

Here's a pic from the Fender Custom Shop showing off variants of SP:
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Left to right is: "dirty shell pink; shell pink; faded shell pink; super faded shell pink" and the rest is the white base-coat.

Of course, monitors vary and I'm using an oil/wax-based translucent product over raw wood.
 
Funny, I’ve been thinking about how to do a stained shell pink finish, and also been wondering about RMC products, so you’ve got my undivided attention!

I tried some coloured hard-wax oil finishes before from a different brand, but nothing worked as well as it seems for you. Gonna have to dive in on the RMC
 
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Funny, I’ve been thinking about how to do a stained shell pink finish, and also been wondering about RMC products, so you’ve got my undivided attention!

I tried some coloured hard-wax oil finishes before from a different brand, but nothing worked as well as it seems for you. Gonna have to dive in on the RMC
I'm an absolute amateur, and RMC has been dead easy to apply. A sample sized bottle would be more than enough for multiple instruments, especially considering mixing different colors to achieve the shade you're looking for. Considering this stuff is made for floors and furniture, I'm not worried about how it will wear over time, either.
 
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It took considerably longer than I expected to get this build "completed" (okay, it still needs knobs, but I'm not going to keep this electronics setup; more on that later). And I'm completely underwhelmed by it!

We last left off in July with some finishing tests on a scrap from Warmoth.

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I decided that 5:1:3 (white : pink : pure) was the right tone. So one night after work I slathered it on the body and was so disappointed that I shoved it in the closet while I waited for more parts to come.

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The color just isn't remotely what I wanted.

It also didn't seem to take as well to some areas, possibly because I didn't do enough sanding prep. Rubio suggests sanding only to 180, but I believe Warmoth takes their unfinished bodies up to 220. Some users of RMC online said that worked just fine for them so I said, "Why make more work for myself?" and this is what I achieved.

Eventually, I'll sand this all off and just do a completely different color (maybe a nice, warm brown or even plain clear).
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Ugly color: strike 1.

Strike 2: underwhelming sound thanks to a set of EMG GZR PJ pickups and EMG solderless VVT wiring harness. Not really able to capture a photo of the tone of the bass, obviously, but here's a closeup anyway.

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Remember how I said I was going to install a Dingwall 4 way rotary switch in this bass because I love them and hate VVT and VBT setups? Well, it apparently only exists in photos and memory, but this is the rotary pickup selector I was supposed to install in this bass (photo taken back in May, and none of my stuff has left my room so it's here somewhere, just not in my dang bass).

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Regardless of the selector switch, I just really dislike the tone of the bass. The P pickup solo is fine, but nothing special. The bridge pickup is absolutely awful. Thin and quiet. Utterly pointless. It reminds me of the awful sound of EMG Selects. If I were to sink the P down a lot lower (which will alter the tone), maybe the J would be usable, but it sure wouldn't be good. I just got a SBMM Ray 4 in trade and that cheapo sounds so much better than this bass. I'll be replacing the electronics posthaste.

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The last strike on this bass is the ergonomics; more specifically the Strap Lock location. I originally mounted it like any other bass, on the tip of the upper horn, but the bottom flare stuck out over the relatively pointy tip of the horn and looked dumb, so I moved it to the back of the horn.

While the bass balances beautifully, my strap has to twist 90 degrees to go over my shoulder and the twist of my wide Gruvgear Solostrap Neo pushes right between my (nonexistent) pectoral muscle and the front of my shoulder such that it pushes the neck out away from my body. I don't know what I'll do to solve this: I could get a normal strap and another set of locks. Or I could move the button back to the tip of the horn, but instead of at 12 o'clock like a normal bass, mount it at either 9-10 o'clock or 1-2 o'clock.

Bonus strike: I haven't stripped the color off the headstock yet so it's still yellowish.

Good things about this build?

I dunno.... maybe that it's done?

In all seriousness,
  • With a set of Hipshot Ultralite tuners, it has no neck dive (the Gotoh GB707s were too heavy for this little bass, so they'll be getting flipped).
  • It's really light (sorry, can't find my luggage scale, must be in the same place as my rotary switch).
  • The bridge, Hipshot A-style in Fender Mounting pattern is a great piece of hardware.
  • The Rubio Monocoat finish was damned easy to apply and the body feels close to natural wood.
  • It can be easily modified with new pickups and electronics.
 
Well, congrats on reaching the finish line. It sure looks cool. I hope you find solutions for the things that bug you. And that you find your lost items.

It might not look quite how you wanted, but it looks great.

Thanks guys! I maybe should have waited a day or two to calm down after finishing assembly before posting.

It's not like it's hideous. And you're absolutely right, the tone and playability issues can easily be addressed.
 
This is my official submission post for the Assembly category of the '22 SBO.

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To recap:
  • Warmoth Z short-scale body (from the Showcase) - swamp ash top over alder back - finished with Rubio Monocoat in my custom, propriety blend of "How Did I Make It So Ugly?" Pink
  • Warmoth 32" scale neck (from TB classifieds) - maple shaft with ebony fretboard with vintage gloss finish
  • Hipshot Ultralite tuners and Fender-mount A-style bridge in black (from TB classifieds)
  • Gotoh battery box (bought new on Reverb)- because the body was already routed for one and I might put a preamp in here eventually
  • EMG GZR PJHZ pickups (bought used on Reverb) and solderless electronics (bought new on Reverb) - they provide that elusive "I can't believe how awful with J pickup sounds, why do people love this set of pickups so much?" tone (seriously, the worst J bridge pickup I've ever heard in a PJ set, so I've got new Wilde PJ pickups on the way)
  • D'addario (bought new on Amazon) balanced tension nickel strings
  • Dunlop Straploks (bought new on Reverb) - I put them on all my basses and own only 1 strap
  • Various black screws and bits found on Reverb to hold it all together
As you can see from previous posts, I'm not thrilled with how this bass came out, but have plans to make it all better, so once voting is done, I'll be updating this thread as I do the following:
  • Strip the neck of it's ugly yellow finish
  • Strip the body of it's ugly pink finish
  • Give the neck a nice matte finish of some sort
  • Refinish the body in a better color (the grain is beautiful so I may do a Rubio Pre-color to enhance the grain and then just put clear on top)
  • Match the headstock to the body finish
  • Shield the pickup and electronics cavities
  • Install Wilde PJ pickups, Dingwall rotary selector, volume and tone controls
  • Hope like hell that I'm happier with the bass after all of that!
 
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Time for this project to enter the infinitely neverending Make It Good-er phase.

Step 1: new guts in the form of a Wilde (Bill Lawrence) P46 and J45 set. Hooked up to the Dingwall 4 position switch, master volume, and master tone. Took some troubleshooting and brain racking to remember how to wire up the switch, but I did it!

These are seriously great pickups. The P46 is fat and warm but also clear, and the J45 is punchy, bright, and noiseless.