As you probably already know, Warmoth doesn't rout their control cavities deep enough to use the regular pots you'd use for anyone else's rear-routed body. They leave the top too thick for the threaded shaft to go all the way thru and catch the nut on the other side. Don't ask me why- this is Assembly 101 level stuff, and they should have a lawyer on staff to handle any suits from idiots who can't drill thru a top thin enough to mount pots without cracking the wood.
So, what are y'all using for long shaft pots? I have a specific issue that's keeping my build delayed. I'll be using a Villex Classic (the one with four wires, red, white, black, and unshielded) piclup that came with a 50K audio taper pot for the mid control. But the pot is a mini, and I can't find any long shaft 50K pots. Is there a way to solder something (a capacitor, resistor, whatever) onto a 100k pot or a 25K pot (which I think are both available in long shaft) to turn it into a 50K pot? Seems I've read something about that.
So I'm looking for a workaround to incomplete control cavity routing. Anyone got a source for 50K pots with a log threaded shaft?
So, what are y'all using for long shaft pots? I have a specific issue that's keeping my build delayed. I'll be using a Villex Classic (the one with four wires, red, white, black, and unshielded) piclup that came with a 50K audio taper pot for the mid control. But the pot is a mini, and I can't find any long shaft 50K pots. Is there a way to solder something (a capacitor, resistor, whatever) onto a 100k pot or a 25K pot (which I think are both available in long shaft) to turn it into a 50K pot? Seems I've read something about that.
So I'm looking for a workaround to incomplete control cavity routing. Anyone got a source for 50K pots with a log threaded shaft?
