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Schaller Strap lock leather punch

BatBasstard

BatBasstard

Feb 14, 2020
399
564
#1
Does anyone know where I could buy cheaply (because I only use one perhaps once every 2 to 3 years) a device that will punch the exact sized hole for a Schaller strap lock into a bass strap end.

As I applied my craft knife very timidly to the leather on a new strap with the strap lock rammed through it, desperately hoping that I didn't slip and slash open my fingers last night I longed for a proper punch.

I have one of these but the largest punch isn't even close.

UK friendly recommendations would be best
 
#2
I put Schaller strap-locks on pretty much every axe I have, and while this is not a "punch" option, I have had helpful relief from stiffer strap ends by using a pair of commonly-available wire cutters to snip away a bit of the corners formed where the hole meets the slot (as illustrated with these egregiously stolen photos):

ht-132_home-tools-wire-cutter.jpg


Strap Lock Snip.jpg


Start small, and work with small cuts (you don't want to make the hole too big), but that should open up a bit of "slack" in the opening that will make it easier to get those threaded ends through.

Good luck, from one who has had his own misadventures with sharp things on bass-related projects. 😬 😅

:thumbsup:
 
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#3
I have a set of leather punches (they look somewhat like a center punch but hollow) that I use when I have to install Dunlop strap locks onto my straps. I bought them at Amazon for pretty short money. I think they were about $20 for the whole set.

Not sure if the Schallers require just a round hole or a different shape (I'm not real familiar with the Schallers). From the above picture maybe they require that little cut where the red marks are. That could be easily done with a fresh Exacto blade or a narrow width sharp wood chisel.
 
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#5
timmus said:
Not sure if the Schallers require just a round hole or a different shape (I'm not real familiar with the Schallers).
Click to expand...
It's round, but a bit thicker than standard strap pegs, which leads to the tight fit. The part that goes through the strap is the threaded post on the back of the receiving bracket, (on the left side of this photo):

image.jpg


timmus said:
That could be easily done with a fresh Exacto blade or a narrow width sharp wood chisel.
Click to expand...
Definitely another option. :thumbsup:
 
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#6
With all the Schaller strap locks I've fitted, to a variety of straps (couple of Ernie Ball straps, and a few other random brands), I've never needed any kind of punch, or trimmed the hole - the excess leather, though a bit of an impediment to fully tightening the nut initially, has never been a problem once it beds in (you'll need to tighten the bolt after a few weeks, and again a few weeks later - but after it's fully tightened, it's solid).

I sort of feel that it helps the whole thing stay securely (once it has bedded in), but also means you haven't potentially rendered the strap too loose for regular strap buttons, or other locks, if you ever need to swap.
 
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#7
Wood and Wire said:
With all the Schaller strap locks I've fitted, to a variety of straps ..., I've never needed any kind of punch, or trimmed the hole
Click to expand...

me as well.

Wood and Wire said:
I sort of feel that it helps the whole thing stay securely (once it has bedded in), but also means you haven't potentially rendered the strap too loose for regular strap buttons, or other locks, if you ever need to swap.
Click to expand...

well, a Mono Betty has holes like just made for the new Schallers. nothing's wrong with it as well.

but I just don't have the need to make the holes bigger as it eventually fits and trims.
 
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#8
Winslow said:
I put Schaller strap-locks on pretty much every axe I have, and while this is not a "punch" option, I have had helpful relief from stiffer strap ends by using a pair of commonly-available wire cutters to snip away a bit of the corners formed where the hole meets the slot (as illustrated with these egregiously stolen photos):

ht-132_home-tools-wire-cutter.jpg


View attachment 7235342

Start small, and work with small cuts (you don't want to make the hole too big), but that should open up a bit of "slack" in the opening that will make it easier to get those threaded ends through.

Good luck, from one who has had his own misadventures with sharp things on bass-related projects. 😬 😅

:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
That's pretty much what I do now but I'd rather have a nice neatly punched circular hole
 
#9
Wood and Wire said:
With all the Schaller strap locks I've fitted, to a variety of straps (couple of Ernie Ball straps, and a few other random brands), I've never needed any kind of punch, or trimmed the hole - the excess leather, though a bit of an impediment to fully tightening the nut initially, has never been a problem once it beds in (you'll need to tighten the bolt after a few weeks, and again a few weeks later - but after it's fully tightened, it's solid).

I sort of feel that it helps the whole thing stay securely (once it has bedded in), but also means you haven't potentially rendered the strap too loose for regular strap buttons, or other locks, if you ever need to swap.
Click to expand...
Not on a thick strap
 
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#10
Aloe said:
me as well.



well, a Mono Betty has holes like just made for the new Schallers. nothing's wrong with it as well.

but I just don't have the need to make the holes bigger as it eventually fits and trims.
Click to expand...
Interesting.
I have a Mono Betty strap I bought a few years ago and I'm sure I remember having to widen the holes on that (I have Schallers on all eight of my straps)
 
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#11
Wood and Wire said:
With all the Schaller strap locks I've fitted, to a variety of straps (couple of Ernie Ball straps, and a few other random brands), I've never needed any kind of punch, or trimmed the hole - the excess leather, though a bit of an impediment to fully tightening the nut initially, has never been a problem once it beds in (you'll need to tighten the bolt after a few weeks, and again a few weeks later - but after it's fully tightened, it's solid).

I sort of feel that it helps the whole thing stay securely (once it has bedded in), but also means you haven't potentially rendered the strap too loose for regular strap buttons, or other locks, if you ever need to swap.
Click to expand...
There are some straps where I haven't had to trim the corners, and yes, the excess "works in," and helps things stay snug. It was just a shortcut on the exceptionally stiff and/or thick leather ends.
 
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#16
If you want cheap, get a short piece of 3/8" (9 or 10 mm) dia steel tubing at an auto parts supply house. Sharpen one end with a file. Chucking the short piece in a drill helps with the sharpening. Then use it as a hole punch with soft blows from a hammer or use in the drill on slow speed to bore through the leather strap ends. This has worked for me before I bought actual punches.
 
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