Seeking advice regarding setting up balanced string set

[Basslie]

Hello,

I installed a set of D’Addario EXL220BT (40-95) with a .130 low B from them too to get a balanced 5 string set on my Sire V5 jazz bass.

I was replacing DR FatBeam 45-125. Those strings were dying and I had been unhappy with the low B sounding different from the rest of the set. So I decided to give a balanced set a try.

I know the 220bt set is extra light, but I figured them being hex core would make them somewhat similar in tension to the round core of the DRs.

I like the feel of playing them so far, and they sound good, but I’m finding that I have some fret buzz at the first fret, mainly on the A, D and G strings. Ive been playing the balancing act of relieving the truss rod and adjusting the saddle heights, but I can’t seem to get that ‘business card’ space between the string and the 7-9th frets. Unless action is high at the saddles.

I’ve loosened the truss rod maybe 3/4-1 whole turn, and still not much has changed. I’ve spaced these adjustments over a few days, letting things settle between turns. Still not enough space for a business card on frets 7-9.

Does it sound like I’m just being too conservative with my loosening adjustments? I’d always heard 1/4 turn one way or another usually resolved any issues. It was set up well for the DRs, just surprised I’d have to loosen the truss this much. I’m no expert in setups but not clueless, and I’m not sure how the tension numbers compare between the DRs and my new set of strings (maybe SS vs NWS makes a difference?).

Another issue: volume levels from string to string. The feel on the balanced tension is great. I like it so far, but there is noticeable variations in volume from string to string. I’m hesitant to adjust pickup height since I’ve heard it’s best just to leave it as the manufacturer set it. Would a heavier gauge set of strings take care of this since they’d have more material to interact with the magnets of the pickup? There is the EXL170BT, but the matching low B is the .145 (tapered), and I didn’t really want to have to file the nut for my first experiment with balanced tension. Also, I like running string-Thru, and I don’t know if a .145 will fit through a ferrule.

Should I just tinker with the pickup heights?

Anyways, appreciate your input. Thanks.

 

[michael_t]

If I wanted a "balanced tension" 5-string set, I would try something like GHS Boomer L3045 (40-55-75-95) with a 125B. They're actually better balanced than the D'A 220BT.

GHS Boomers 40-55-75-95-125

G 040 - 33.6 (lbs.)
D 055 - 35.2
A 075 - 35.9
E 095 - 36.1
B 125 - 34.6

D'A EXL220BT 40-55-70-95, plus 130B

G 040 - 32.42 (lbs.)
D 055 - 34.69
A 070 - 31.21
E 095 - 31.66
B 130 - 32.14

I've tried the Boomer factory 5-string set 40-55-75-95-120 in the past and found them to be very nicely balanced both in tone and feel even with a slightly lighter B (31.3 lbs.). Balanced tension works well for EADG, but when it comes to the low B, something slightly lighter has always worked better for me for tonal balance.

I've just installed a set of GHS Pressurewounds L7200 (40-54-76-96) and the 128B on a friend's Ibanez. They're nicely balanced as well.

G 040 - 37.2 (lbs.)
D 054 - 36.5
A 076 - 39.3
E 096 - 34.2
B 128 - 34.0

 

[michael_t]

One more...

GHS Bassics L6000 40-58-80-102 with the 130B:

G 040 - 33.6 (lbs.)
D 058 - 39.6
A 080 - 42.0
E 102 - 38.1
B 130 - 36.9

 

[Yahboy]

First fret buzz means open string pluck and buzzing on first fret , right ?
If yes, check the nut slot depth.

If string to string output not balance, it could be fretboard radius dint meet the pickup surface if has flushed magnet. For 5 string bass, 12~16 fretboard radius work well on flushed magnet pickups than 9.5~10.5.

Edit.
This V5 5 string J ?
Sire Marcus Miller V5 24 5-string Bass Guitar - Dakota Red

Gear Review: Sire Guitars Marcus Miller V7 5-String Bass

If yes, the fretboard radius are 9.5' and flush pickup. Check the image on notreble site.
Thats why i choose 12 radius Bacchus J instead Fender/Squier. I want string to string output balance along with my personal favor action setup. 1.75mm E , 1.6mm A , 1.5mm D and 1.4mm G. on sweet sounding Cort VTB-ST split J pup with flush magnet pole pieces.


Base on my experience , on 9.5 radius fretboard 5 string bass guitar, i need do more tweak on both pickups height and action setting to get close to string to string output balance thing. In the end, you will feel less comfortable on fretting hand while play across entire fretboard.

 

[Basslie]

First fret buzz means open string pluck and buzzing on first fret , right ?
If yes, check the nut slot depth.

If string to string output not balance, it could be fretboard radius dint meet the pickup surface if has flushed magnet. For 5 string bass, 12~16 fretboard radius work well on flushed magnet pickups than 9.5~10.5.

Edit.
This V5 5 string J ?
Sire Marcus Miller V5 24 5-string Bass Guitar - Dakota Red

Gear Review: Sire Guitars Marcus Miller V7 5-String Bass

If yes, the fretboard radius are 9.5' and flush pickup. Check the image on notreble site.
Thats why i choose 12 radius Bacchus J instead Fender/Squier. I want string to string output balance along with my personal favor action setup. 1.75mm E , 1.6mm A , 1.5mm D and 1.4mm G. on sweet sounding Cort VTB-ST split J pup with flush magnet pole pieces.


Base on my experience , on 9.5 radius fretboard 5 string bass guitar, i need do more tweak on both pickups height and action setting to get close to string to string output balance thing. In the end, you will feel less comfortable on fretting hand while play across entire fretboard.

it’s when fretting at the first fret: when playing Bb/Eb/Ab.

I hadn’t considered fretboard radius as a culprit good point. This bass is my my first 9.5” radius, as every other I’ve owned were more ‘modern’ designs that probably had wider radius.

 

[Basslie]

Hello,

I installed a set of D’Addario EXL220BT (40-95) with a .130 low B from them too to get a balanced 5 string set on my Sire V5 jazz bass.

I was replacing DR FatBeam 45-125. Those strings were dying and I had been unhappy with the low B sounding different from the rest of the set. So I decided to give a balanced set a try.

I know the 220bt set is extra light, but I figured them being hex core would make them somewhat similar in tension to the round core of the DRs.

I like the feel of playing them so far, and they sound good, but I’m finding that I have some fret buzz at the first fret, mainly on the A, D and G strings. Ive been playing the balancing act of relieving the truss rod and adjusting the saddle heights, but I can’t seem to get that ‘business card’ space between the string and the 7-9th frets. Unless action is high at the saddles.

I’ve loosened the truss rod maybe 3/4-1 whole turn, and still not much has changed. I’ve spaced these adjustments over a few days, letting things settle between turns. Still not enough space for a business card on frets 7-9.

Does it sound like I’m just being too conservative with my loosening adjustments? I’d always heard 1/4 turn one way or another usually resolved any issues. It was set up well for the DRs, just surprised I’d have to loosen the truss this much. I’m no expert in setups but not clueless, and I’m not sure how the tension numbers compare between the DRs and my new set of strings (maybe SS vs NWS makes a difference?).

Another issue: volume levels from string to string. The feel on the balanced tension is great. I like it so far, but there is noticeable variations in volume from string to string. I’m hesitant to adjust pickup height since I’ve heard it’s best just to leave it as the manufacturer set it. Would a heavier gauge set of strings take care of this since they’d have more material to interact with the magnets of the pickup? There is the EXL170BT, but the matching low B is the .145 (tapered), and I didn’t really want to have to file the nut for my first experiment with balanced tension. Also, I like running string-Thru, and I don’t know if a .145 will fit through a ferrule.

Should I just tinker with the pickup heights?

Anyways, appreciate your input. Thanks.

Hi everyone… just to clarify… when I say first fret buzz… it’s when I’m fretting the first fret, not open string: so when playing the Bb/Eb/Ab on the A/D/G strings. When played open, I just get the slightest buzz on the A if I pluck really hard, which is about normal.

Thanks.

 

[Yahboy]

Hi everyone… just to clarify… when I say first fret buzz… it’s when I’m fretting the first fret, not open string: so when playing the Bb/Eb/Ab on the A/D/G strings. When played open, I just get the slightest buzz in the A if I pluck really hard, which is about normal.

Thanks.

How much the Neck relief ?

If neck set too flat could cause first 5 fret getting buzz. On 7.25' neck radius, i prefer .014 ; for 9.5'-10.5'/ .010-.012 ; for 12'-16' / .008-.010.

For 5 string bass with 9.5' radius fretboard + light/medium tension bass string > try .012 or .014 .

If the buzzing still happen after neck relief setup, you need bring you bass for inspect fret level thing. or PLEK it.

 

[Aloe]

I like the feel of playing them so far, and they sound good, but I’m finding that I have some fret buzz at the first fret, mainly on the A, D and G strings. Ive been playing the balancing act of relieving the truss rod and adjusting the saddle heights, but I can’t seem to get that ‘business card’ space between the string and the 7-9th frets. Unless action is high at the saddles.

hi. seems like you didn't turn truss rod enough or it doesn't work.

you don't have to wait a few days for the changes to take effect, just loosen (ccw) the truss rod until you'll see that your relief enlarged. if you made several full turns and relief didn't change at all, this likely means, your truss rod is not working (like broken). don't be afraid to turn it much, but don't apply excessive force.

 

[HaphAsSard]

I'll just add that adjusting pickup height, until it does what you need it to, is neither blasphemy nor nearly as delicate as, say, updating the BIOS on a computer? The adjustability is there for the end user, not for setup at the factory or a luthier's shop.

 

[iiipopes]

As a player of "balanced" sets decades before that was a thing, and I had to order strings singly, if the fret buzz is at the first fret, have a qualified luthier confirm you have level frets, proper nut grooves, proper crown to the fretboard, and that there is no backbow at that point in the neck. I have had guitars and basses over the decades that had each of those issues, and all of them had the same manifestation: buzz at the first and second frets.

 

[J Wilson]

Balanced or not, the process is the same: Relief, action, intonation, pickup clearance. Then, if suspect, check for improperly seated/leveled frets, 1st fret clearance to check the nut slot depths. Neck shim possible if the bridge saddles bottom out before reaching right action.

Always with new strings. Played-in strings with even just a few hours may give spurious responses. Fives can be particularly fussy about pickup clearance in terms of the B/E crowding the D/G, so be careful with the clearance.

I've played a variety of fives for many years with every set of strings imaginable, yet it's always the same process. I've run .012" relief and 5/64ths action forever, though it may take some basses longer to get trained.

 

[Basslie]

hi. seems like you didn't turn truss rod enough or it doesn't work.

you don't have to wait a few days for the changes to take effect, just loosen (ccw) the truss rod until you'll see that your relief enlarged. if you made several full turns and relief didn't change at all, this likely means, your truss rod is not working (like broken). don't be afraid to turn it much, but don't apply excessive force.

As a player of "balanced" sets decades before that was a thing, and I had to order strings singly, if the fret buzz is at the first fret, have a qualified luthier confirm you have level frets, proper nut grooves, proper crown to the fretboard, and that there is no backbow at that point in the neck. I have had guitars and basses over the decades that had each of those issues, and all of them had the same manifestation: buzz at the first and second frets.

Thanks. It didn’t have the buzz there at with the previous strings, so I’m hoping it’s just something I can fix though setup adjustments.i

Hello,

I installed a set of D’Addario EXL220BT (40-95) with a .130 low B from them too to get a balanced 5 string set on my Sire V5 jazz bass.

I was replacing DR FatBeam 45-125. Those strings were dying and I had been unhappy with the low B sounding different from the rest of the set. So I decided to give a balanced set a try.

I know the 220bt set is extra light, but I figured them being hex core would make them somewhat similar in tension to the round core of the DRs.

I like the feel of playing them so far, and they sound good, but I’m finding that I have some fret buzz at the first fret, mainly on the A, D and G strings. Ive been playing the balancing act of relieving the truss rod and adjusting the saddle heights, but I can’t seem to get that ‘business card’ space between the string and the 7-9th frets. Unless action is high at the saddles.

I’ve loosened the truss rod maybe 3/4-1 whole turn, and still not much has changed. I’ve spaced these adjustments over a few days, letting things settle between turns. Still not enough space for a business card on frets 7-9.

Does it sound like I’m just being too conservative with my loosening adjustments? I’d always heard 1/4 turn one way or another usually resolved any issues. It was set up well for the DRs, just surprised I’d have to loosen the truss this much. I’m no expert in setups but not clueless, and I’m not sure how the tension numbers compare between the DRs and my new set of strings (maybe SS vs NWS makes a difference?).

Another issue: volume levels from string to string. The feel on the balanced tension is great. I like it so far, but there is noticeable variations in volume from string to string. I’m hesitant to adjust pickup height since I’ve heard it’s best just to leave it as the manufacturer set it. Would a heavier gauge set of strings take care of this since they’d have more material to interact with the magnets of the pickup? There is the EXL170BT, but the matching low B is the .145 (tapered), and I didn’t really want to have to file the nut for my first experiment with balanced tension. Also, I like running string-Thru, and I don’t know if a .145 will fit through a ferrule.

Should I just tinker with the pickup heights?

Anyways, appreciate your input. Thanks.

I think I’ve got it resolved. I just had to be a more willing to loosen the truss rod. More tinkering with balance between amount of relief and saddle height and I think I’ve got it. My buzz moved from 1st fret to 12th/13th, which I was able to fix with some more fine tuning. Intonated fine, running strings through-body. The process really is a balancing act between the relief and the saddle height, but action is sufficiently low (for an extra light gauge string), and is a pleasure to play again. We’ll see how it holds over night.

Treble side of pickup could be just a little closer and/or lower the bass side a little….debating if it’s a big enough deal to mess with. At home sounds fine from amp… I’ll try to listen through headphones and/or a recording the get a better idea of the string to string volume.

thanks everyone.

for what it’s worth… I’m liking the balanced tension string set. Best part: things finally sound balanced and no blah B string. Example: An 8th fret G on the B string sounds like a 3rd fret G on the E string.