Series/parallel and level matching

[tiglon]

That was probably a parallel MM pickup not series, I could be wrong tho.

I thought that. But recently with the modification of level matching, my ear tells me that he is slapping in series with all the mids swipped down. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds pretty like him

 

[Will_White]

I thought that. But recently with the modification of level matching, my ear tells me that he is slapping in series with all the mids swipped down. Maybe I'm wrong, but it sounds pretty like him

How many bands of EQ do you have? To get the most brightness a pair of 1meg resistors should work, otherwise use an active boost and buffer in the parallel position and a buffer only in series.

 

[tiglon]

How many bands of EQ do you have? To get the most brightness a pair of 1meg resistors should work, otherwise use an active boost and buffer in the parallel position and a buffer only in series.

I think I solved the problem. Because of the mod I've done, I had to test combining various resistors (like RobbieK said in his post) 68k & 82K, 220K & 270k, 68k & 270k, etc. I started with two 82k resistors, and the level went the same as parallel, but with a darker sound (I have 3 bands of EQ). Cutting the mids and boosting all the treble, I had a slight brightness. I've tested a higher value resistors and it's slightly brighter, but with less volume. I've returned to 68k & 82K in that order, and it worked. Series volume is a little bit higher but the difference series/parallel is minimum, and sounds brighter.

Now I just have to boost a little the treble instead of turning the knob all the way up, because a fast change between series and parallel in the middle of a song is dangerous (you know what i mean)

Thank you so much for your help!

Have a happy holidays!!

 

[5StringPocket]

Would this idea work with a Nordstrand BigMan pickup? If so would the given 68k and 82k values be close?

 

[RobbieK]

If so would the given 68k and 82k values be close?

I believe you guys may be confused. I'm sorry if I did this. TBH, I can't really follow this diagram. This is not the same as what I posted. Are the resistors joined together where the coils join? That's not right. One resistor should be in line with the hot signal and the other should be from the hot to earth. To bypass/short these two resistors so they "disappear" from the circuit when in parallel mode, as well as do the series-parallel operation, you need a switch with at least three poles. I only see two in this diagram.

Two resistors should be wired as an "L-pad attenuator". (And only be in the circuit while the switch is set to series mode.)

If you look at a linear pot with one outer lug to earth, the other outer lug to input, and the centre lug (wiper) to output, then sweep the pot to its mid point, you have the same thing.

Between point 3 and point 2 is a resistance, and between the wiper (point 2) and ground/earth (point 1) is a resistor. As you turn up the volume, the resistance between 3 and 2 decreases, and the resistance between the wiper/output and earth increases. This reduces the attenuation. (And vice versa of course.) Imagine a 250K linear pot with the wiper in the centre. This is a 6dB L-pad attenuator made from two 125K resistors.

IOW, my original diagram is simply adding the equivilent of an extra (linear taper) volume pot fixed at half way (or thereabouts) when switched to series mode.

higher value resistors and it's slightly brighter

I have 3 bands of EQ)

If you have an active bass with just the one pickup and no active-passive switch (like a stingray for example), you could also put the attenuator after the preamp. The signal there is low impedence, so a couple of say, 10K resistors would be appropriate. The advantage of this that the series sound will be nice and bright, (depending on the input impedance of the preamp). I've done this in the past, and was not really happy because the series sound was just as bright as the parallel sound, just the treble voice had shifted slightly. But it may work for you.

You'd wire it something like this:

 

[tiglon]

TBH, I can't really follow this diagram.

It's very simple: a pair of SPDT switches. When both are up (BC + EF) is in parallel. BC + DE (first switch in down position and second switch up) is the neck coil. AB + EF (first switch up and second switch down) is bridge coil, and both switches down (AB + DE) is series mode. After been searching where to put the resistors, I realized that A & D is the circuit that engages series mode.

Anyway, this configuration of resistors in series is not the right combination. I tested all kind of resistor configurations in this diagram, and ended putting one 82k to the circuit. This is the closest volume leveling to parallel and 68k for a little volume boost without loosing series tone.

 

[RobbieK]

yeah ok. well hey, if it works for you I guess that's cool. but I'd recommend rereading my posts. your wiring is not as I recommend.