• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Setup Impossibilities

F

Fatalistic

Feb 16, 2011
44
0
#1
So, I spent my entire day slaving over my bass. Why? Well, let me tell you why.
Get the neck straight with that tiny bit of relief? Golden.
Set the action just right? Great. It's comfortable to pluck, slap, and tap...
Wait, what's this?! I thought I could get away with that? LOL NOPE. The E string sounds dull, feels way too tight, and doesn't speak. Okay, lower the action. HA HA HA HA HA HA, IT'S NOT THAT EASY!!! NOW EVERY FRET FROM THE 13TH UP BUZZES!!!!
Raise the action. Back to dull E string.
D string having problems? Well, that's okay, the action isn't too high on it, I can raise it... Wait, I'm not supposed to be getting that "mwah" from the last seven frets...

If you disn't want to read that mess, here's what's wrong with my setup:
On the EADG strings (Not the B or C), the last seven to five frets buzz horribly when plucked. When I try to raise them, the strings go horribly awry. I like the rest of the bass the way it is, except for the upper ones.
I would appreciate any help. I have an SR506, and I'm currently using SIT Powersteels. If I had to guess, my problems are caused because the Powersteels are meant for a 35" bass (not totally sure), and the SR is 34".
 
#2
I used to have a similar problem with my SR300, everything from the 14th to the 24th buzzed. I solved it by setting up the neck the way I liked it from the 1st fret to the 14th then leveled the frets from the 15th to the 24th with a 6" wood block and 150 grit sandpaper (made for metal). It really made a huge difference, 80% resolved.
 
#5
34" vs. 35" scale strings have nothing to do with it.

if the setup is truly as you say, and "good" settings give you a bunch of fret buzz, you've likely got neck issues.

typical for basses like this is the dreaded "reverse S-curve", where tightening the trussrod begins to backbow the neck from like 7 back to the nut, while 12 up to the body are still up-bowed.

time to get it looked at, if only to confirm that the setup specs are actually right.

also, the "dull" E is not really a clear symptom of anything; maybe the string itself is bad, but setup adjustments will change a string from "buzzing" to "not buzzing", but won't change it from "clear" to "dull".

(if you let it get twisted when first stringing it, that could affect how it sounds; it's a different issue from setup, though.)
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back