Should I buy: Traynor YBA200-2

[samcantjump]

Been looking to upgrade to either a hybrid or full tube bass amp from my GK combo.
This is available close to my area for $300. It’s listed as good working condition. I’ll be testing it this afternoon to confirm. The information on this amp is fairly scarce. I’ve read as much as I could find on talkbass and other sources. I figured a direct question may help. At this time, is this a fairly deal. Are there some things I should specifically be looking for?
I mostly play rock/punk/indie music. Thank you in advance

 

[KevInDaBassment]

If it's in working order and good condition, I would definitely grab it for that price...

Judging by the picture it looks like there's a fair amount of dust/dirt on the amp though. I'd for sure try it out and then hit it with an air hose the second you get a chance.

They're good amps, but from what I've read on here it uses the Fender tone stack (Mids are cut-only, can't boost them using the amp EQ) so if that's not your jam, keep that in mind. Plenty of ways around that. Very good amps, but what GK cabs are you pairing it with? It's 200w, so you may need some formidable bass cabs to keep up in a punk band, but if everyone is reasonable on volume then no sweat.

I've used them with:
GK Goldline 2x10 and 1x15 - Decent volume, but you had to push the amp kinda hard if you're up against a guitarist with 100w and 4x12s
Kasino 2x15s (with Eminence Legend CB158s) - Keep your mids up and you'll be fine in most cases, don't be afraid to push it to breakup, which shouldn't be a problem in the genres you cited.

If you've got a solid, responsive 6x10 or 8x10 to set it on you should be fine in most cases.

 

[samcantjump]

If it's in working order and good condition, I would definitely grab it for that price...

Judging by the picture it looks like there's a fair amount of dust/dirt on the amp though. I'd for sure try it out and then hit it with an air hose the second you get a chance.

They're good amps, but from what I've read on here it uses the Fender tone stack (Mids are cut-only, can't boost them using the amp EQ) so if that's not your jam, keep that in mind. Plenty of ways around that. Very good amps, but what GK cabs are you pairing it with? It's 200w, so you may need some formidable bass cabs to keep up in a punk band, but if everyone is reasonable on volume then no sweat.

I've used them with:
GK Goldline 2x10 and 1x15 - Decent volume, but you had to push the amp kinda hard if you're up against a guitarist with 100w and 4x12s
Kasino 2x15s (with Eminence Legend CB158s) - Keep your mids up and you'll be fine in most cases, don't be afraid to push it to breakup, which shouldn't be a problem in the genres you cited.

If you've got a solid, responsive 6x10 or 8x10 to set it on you should be fine in most cases.

Sorry, the GK is a combo that is my current everyday amp. I have not decided on a potential cab for this yet.

I appreciate the 6x10 and 8x10 suggestions, as well as the info on the amp itself.

 

[lomo]

At that price it's a steal, as long as it's truly in good working order.

 

[TheReceder]

Seems to be extremely low priced so I'd approach with caution.
If I was a younger man, I'd be all over that. Maybe even gamble on it if it had issues. (I've got a good amp tech that would be ear to ear grins if he got to work on it.)

Seems like it's not uncommon for them to sell used for over $1000. Least I found was right around $500.

 

[Wasnex]

$300 sounds like a steal...providing the amp is in good working order and the tubes are healthy.

The first thing I suggest is do a good demo and make sure you like the sound and the way the controls respond. Many people seem to think all tube amps are the same, but each model tends to have it's own unique personality. You might love the personality of one model of amp, and hate the next. Make sure the controls operate properly, the amp makes an appropriate amount of power (200W), and the sound is free from excess hum and hiss.

The second thing, I recommend you factor the cost of a bench fee and a full set of matched output tubes into the purchase price of any used tube amps you buy. I own a bunch of tubes amps that I bought previously loved and about half of them had tube problems either when they arrived or shortly thereafter. Maybe you will get lucky and the amp will run perfectly for several years, but I would say the odds are close to 50/50 that it won't.

It's a lot easier to accept the inevitable cost of retubing the amp if you plan for the expense up front. Is $300 for this amp still a good deal if you have to sink an additional $400 into it to get it running properly? That's ~$300 for a matched set of KT88 and ~$100 for a tech to give the amp a checkup and set the bias to the proper range. This is just an estimate--it might be more and it might be less.

 

[murphy]

I was given one to use at a street festival....They had it hooked up to a 210 cab.
Blues/RnB band.
I could get nothing but a rough distortion .... Not enough speakers I guess.
Came away not impressed.
The 300 watt is probably a better option

 

[Jens Telemark]

$300 sounds like a steal...providing the amp is in good working order and the tubes are healthy.

The first thing I suggest is do a good demo and make sure you like the sound and the way the controls respond. Many people seem to think all tube amps are the same, but each model tends to have it's own unique personality. You might love the personality of one model of amp, and hate the next. Make sure the controls operate properly, the amp makes an appropriate amount of power (200W), and the sound is free from excess hum and hiss.

The second thing, I recommend you factor the cost of a bench fee and a full set of matched output tubes into the purchase price of any used tube amps you buy. I own a bunch of tubes amps that I bought previously loved and about half of them had tube problems either when they arrived or shortly thereafter. Maybe you will get lucky and the amp will run perfectly for several years, but I would say the odds are close to 50/50 that it won't.

It's a lot easier to accept the inevitable cost of retubing the amp if you plan for the expense up front. Is $300 for this amp still a good deal if you have to sink an additional $400 into it to get it running properly? That's ~$300 for a matched set of KT88 and ~$100 for a tech to give the amp a checkup and set the bias to the proper range. This is just an estimate--it might be more and it might be less.

Regarding bench time it’s worth noting this is a modern amp with everything mounted on PC boards including tube sockets and I/O jacks. Not nearly as easy to work on as an old turret board wired Traynor.

 

[TTA]

i have one and like it a lot, but the key is understanding the eq… otherwise it is a mid scooping machine if you try to approach it like an ampeg.

flat is bass at 1-2/10, mids full, treble 1-2/10. change those and scoop the mids. “scoop” scoops the mids. bright does not scoops the mids, but by boosting highs… it is daring you.

range… scoops the mids. kidding. counterclockwise favours low mids, high scoops the low mids and favours high mids. keep it at 50%

i like mids maxed, scoop off (or full… scoop set low scoops the mids… set high… to my ears it slightly boosts high mids… go figure!!!), bass and treble boosted slightly to taste, resonance 3. gain - breaks up well enough but i like it clean.

in short, great sounding amp dialled in, with many tools to scoop the mids. imho most negative reviews talking about it being hi-fi scooped are from people not understanding how the eq/tone stack works (fender tone stack with bells). But you cant blame them… it is a mid scoop trap to the unknowing.

i have a v1 with upgraded 6550’s

 

[grubdumpling]

Following all the advice so far, that is a truly fantastic and suspicious price. I won't share how much I paid for a new one... It does take some getting used to, the EQ is not forgiving but totally serviceable with care.

If you are in Canada, repairs are a snap, everything serious goes back to the original factory from any long and mcquade store. I only use Traynor amps and the brand treats me very well. I once sent a yba1 back because it had never seen a tech in it's life. They charged me 60$ to put it through the wringer and give it a clean bill of health. Shipping included.

 

[N4860]

I'd be all over it at that price, but of course check it over before buying. Traynor makes some great sounding amps at great prices.

 

[grubdumpling]

@TTA how do you like that YBA100? I returned one, had great tone but I could not get it to be loud. I have a reissue YBA1 (40watts?) that blew it away, haha.

 

[Ben Clarke]

I worked at Yorkville in the US office when the -2 was just out. I'm sure you saw my comments if you went way back to the busy threads here around then.

The cautions I've read so far are good, and I had them in mind as well.

The EQ is best approached with a blindfold on. IIRC, they interact more than a lot of amps too, so twist and listen. It's got a lot of different (bit somehow very similar) sounds in it, but is not the most intuitive as a result.

Service-wise, unless something has radically changed, getting it on a bench at the factory is not a big deal from the US. You ship it to the Big Blue Y in Niagara Falls, NY, and they shuttle it back and forth on the regular truck from the mothership in Pickering, ON. They're not super heavy or big.

If it's been in regular use, it's probably a fairly low risk move. If it were me, I'd probably rock it as is at home and rehearsal for a bit rather than put hundreds into it, unless you absolutely love it once you get it. I've owned a bunch of tube gear of many types, and feel comfortable paying attention for "oh no shut it down" vibes and calling a tech or reselling as is depending on the situation wrt specialness and cost relative to value.

Yes, it's generally a really good idea to have an unknown piece of tube gear checked over but making a $300 YBA200-2 into a $600 amp with new tubes changes the calculus. I haven't kept tabs on the value of these, but I'd really want you to be sure you want to keep it for a while before you start getting close to upside down on the resale value.

If it works well but it's just not your thing, it appears that you could make a few hundred just moving it on to the next player if you don't like it, although there is low demand in the US if that's where you are so it might take a while. But there is always a non-zero risk that there could be an issue that burns you, literally or figuratively.

 

[TTA]

@TTA how do you like that YBA100? I returned one, had great tone but I could not get it to be loud. I have a reissue YBA1 (40watts?) that blew it away, haha.

i like it a lot. it has a very ampeg style tone stack. just a smaller 300. i have no issues but i was silly and mine in in the shop getting an orange meets white custom case makeover.

sounds like you had issues.

i saw a yba1 reissue and wish i grabbed it.

 

[samcantjump]

It was a dud. Pictures must be old. This was kept by a non-musician in a not temp-controlled garage. It was much dirtier than the pictures, a couple of tubes looked to need replacing, and despite saying he had everything necessary to try the amp out before buying, did not. I passed. Thank you all for the information and recommendations.

 

[Mikechromeserp]

Hi, I have a yba200ii head and I am running 610's and it is VERY loud, and sounds amazing, I put some drive into the front and it responds extremely well. If you are concerned about volume, dont be. Use a clean boost and you can keep up with a dual rec no prob. (Ask me how I know.... lol)

 

[Heavy Blue]

i have one and like it a lot, but the key is understanding the eq… otherwise it is a mid scooping machine if you try to approach it like an ampeg.

flat is bass at 1-2/10, mids full, treble 1-2/10. change those and scoop the mids. “scoop” scoops the mids. bright does not scoops the mids, but by boosting highs… it is daring you.

range… scoops the mids. kidding. counterclockwise favours low mids, high scoops the low mids and favours high mids. keep it at 50%

i like mids maxed, scoop off (or full… scoop set low scoops the mids… set high… to my ears it slightly boosts high mids… go figure!!!), bass and treble boosted slightly to taste, resonance 3. gain - breaks up well enough but i like it clean.

in short, great sounding amp dialled in, with many tools to scoop the mids. imho most negative reviews talking about it being hi-fi scooped are from people not understanding how the eq/tone stack works (fender tone stack with bells). But you cant blame them… it is a mid scoop trap to the unknowing.

View attachment 7380747

i have a v1 with upgraded 6550’s

I also have a v1 200, a 100, and had rented a 300 (what a beast!) for about 4 months.

100% agree with you irt the tone settings and keeping the mids pretty high. I usually have the mids set somewhere around 8 to 10 depending on how where the range and scoop are set.

I think that all 3 have a similar tone stack. To me, the range control is what is called the frequency control on the 100 & 300. The 100 & 300's fixed deep switch replaces the 200's variable scoop control & the fixed resonance switch replaces the 200's variable resonance control. My EQ settings on the 100 & 200 are almost identical.

Like many, I had originally fallen into the mid scoop trap. With most of my previous amps, setting the mids that high would've made them sound too brassy or nasally. Not so with these. There's a very noticeable reduction in volume starting at any mid setting under 6½-7.

Seeing how your 200 has 6550s (what did you mean by "upgraded"?), I thought I'd recheck mine. As I thought, it has JJ KT88s but what I didn't see before was that they're from The Tube Store as they have their logo/sticker on the bases. They must be well matched as the amp is very quiet with zero hum.

By chance, have you tried using EL34s in your 100? I'm curious about that but haven't heard one using them yet.

Nice knobs on your 200. Are they older Traynor knobs?

I like the Traynor cabs too. Used to have a TC1510 but I sold it & the first 200 I had during a rough stretch. I have a really nice condition TC810 but now I'm considering getting the TC210 & TC115 Neo as I saw a pair on sale for a decent price last weekend and would definitely be enough speaker for the rooms I play. Currently, I usually run the 200 through an Eden Nemesis 212 when playing out. Folks around here basically have a bird at the sight of an 810 plus the 212 only weighs about 36 lbs.

Do you notice any tonal differences between the 1510 and the paired 210 & 115?

 

[Heavy Blue]

@TTA how do you like that YBA100? I returned one, had great tone but I could not get it to be loud. I have a reissue YBA1 (40watts?) that blew it away, haha.

At first I thought that it was too quiet as well, but much like the 200, cranking up the mids improved it greatly.

That being said, I got the 100 primarily for home use so I haven't used it for playing out yet. That's what the 200 is for.

However, I have been thinking about bringing it along with the 200 to give it a try at a local jam just to see how it works out. If it's not up to it, then I'll switch over to the 200.

I also wonder if switching the tubes from 6L6s to EL34s might also give it some additional volume as EL34s usually have more mids than 6L6s.

 

[TTA]

I also have a v1 200, a 100, and had rented a 300 (what a beast!) for about 4 months.

100% agree with you irt the tone settings and keeping the mids pretty high. I usually have the mids set somewhere around 8 to 10 depending on how where the range and scoop are set.

I think that all 3 have a similar tone stack. To me, the range control is what is called the frequency control on the 100 & 300. The 100 & 300's fixed deep switch replaces the 200's variable scoop control & the fixed resonance switch replaces the 200's variable resonance control. My EQ settings on the 100 & 200 are almost identical.

Like many, I had originally fallen into the mid scoop trap. With most of my previous amps, setting the mids that high would've made them sound too brassy or nasally. Not so with these. There's a very noticeable reduction in volume starting at any mid setting under 6½-7.

Seeing how your 200 has 6550s (what did you mean by "upgraded"?), I thought I'd recheck mine. As I thought, it has JJ KT88s but what I didn't see before was that they're from The Tube Store as they have their logo/sticker on the bases. They must be well matched as the amp is very quiet with zero hum.

By chance, have you tried using EL34s in your 100? I'm curious about that but haven't heard one using them yet.

Nice knobs on your 200. Are they older Traynor knobs?

I like the Traynor cabs too. Used to have a TC1510 but I sold it & the first 200 I had during a rough stretch. I have a really nice condition TC810 but now I'm considering getting the TC210 & TC115 Neo as I saw a pair on sale for a decent price last weekend and would definitely be enough speaker for the rooms I play. Currently, I usually run the 200 through an Eden Nemesis 212 when playing out. Folks around here basically have a bird at the sight of an 810 plus the 212 only weighs about 36 lbs.

Do you notice any tonal differences between the 1510 and the paired 210 & 115?

lot going one here. the 100 and 300 have an ampeg style tone stack, but the mid control is active. so it is more intuitive and everything at 12 oclick is flat. the 200 is passive fender style tone stack. i think range on the 200 has a broad eq effect, and does not target mids specifically.

i believe my v1 came with 6550’s, and i upgraded them to (searching memory banks) maybe some form of jj that are tinted blue. 20+ years ago so who knows. too lazy to check the box. also did a preamp tube swap under guidance of others but totally forget the what/why/where. i could prob dig up old posts. i as trying to create buffer to scooping the mids.

my 100 is stock electronically (waiting on a custom wood case).

the knobs one the 200 are aftermarket. i added the piping also.

i need to properly a/b compare the 2/10 +115 vs the 1510 but the 1510 handles lows (B string and lower) better than any other cab i have (new genz benz uber 410 yet to be tested, but i doubt it wins for low projection). the 1510 is a true three way cab so it makes sense.

i really wanted a tc810 but stuck with a 210x2 and 115 if i choose. if you are east coast dm me.

 

[TTA]

It was a dud. Pictures must be old. This was kept by a non-musician in a not temp-controlled garage. It was much dirtier than the pictures, a couple of tubes looked to need replacing, and despite saying he had everything necessary to try the amp out before buying, did not. I passed. Thank you all for the information and recommendations.

nothing more expensive than a cheaply priced abused tube amp. good call.