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Should I Fear a Poly to Nitro 'CIJ' Neck Refinish?

From Poly to Nitro Neck Refinish?

  • It's worth it?

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Leave it alone?

    Votes: 5 50.0%
  • Why tempt fate?

    Votes: 2 20.0%
  • Live dangerously?

    Votes: 2 20.0%

  • Total voters
    10
Feb 21, 2012
2,679
2,515
I finished a 57 build using a MTJ Nitro, light relic, body and a (2015?) 'Crafted in Japan' one piece Maple, 1 5/8's, neck. ... Now she's all together it's everything I hoped she would turn out to be, but for one thing. ... The Poly finish on the one piece neck. ... Since all my other basses have older, (64, 66, 72, 74) worn-in necks, which I'm into, I'm finding the poly a put-off. ... I've heard one piece Japanese necks can sometimes twist when un-encased from their protective Poly home but my desire is to take her to a new home in a Nito finish. ...
If anyone has attempted this with success or failure please let me know.

PS. ... I was warned that the CIJ necks are slightly wider at the heal and found that out after I bought her and couldn't squeeze her into a Fender factory sunburst body I had lying about.
But when I bought the used MTJ body, the owner, warned me I need a shim to make a Fender neck work, but it turned out this neck and this body were a perfect tight fit, so the reason I question attempting fate.
 

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I finished a 57 build using a MTJ Nitro, light relic, body and a (2015?) 'Crafted in Japan' one piece Maple, 1 5/8's, neck. ... Now she's all together it's everything I hoped she would turn out to be, but for one thing. ... The Poly finish on the one piece neck. ... Since all my other basses have older, (64, 66, 72, 74) worn-in necks, which I'm into, I'm finding the poly a put-off. ... I've heard one piece Japanese necks can sometimes twist when un-encased from their protective Poly home but my desire is to take her to a new home in a Nito finish. ...
If anyone has attempted this with success or failure please let me know.

PS. ... I was warned that the CIJ necks are slightly wider at the heal and found that out after I bought her and couldn't squeeze her into a Fender factory sunburst body I had lying about.
But when I bought the used MTJ body, the owner, warned me I need a shim to make a Fender neck work, but it turned out this neck and this body were a perfect tight fit, so the reason I question attempting fate.
Have you tried hitting the back of the neck with steel wool to knock the shine off?
 
I've removed finishes on the back of my bass necks since 75 on my original 66 P-bass. ... I've considered that as a solution, but curious if I could come across someone who might have done what I described in the post. ...
 
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27570353[/URL], member: 196552"]Have you tried hitting the back of the neck with steel wool to knock the shine off?

A thin satin polyurethane (not polyester) finish gives you a great feel, and protects the wood very well. The only thing nitro does “better” is (for those who like that) fall off after a while.

A couple minutes with some 400 grit can take the “grab” off a polyester finish - you don’t need to take the entire finish off to get a decent feel.
 
I think you should do what you want as far as whether to re-fin the neck but whatever you do, use Scotch-Brite pads.

IMO, concerns about how completely wood along the back of necks is sealed tend toward overblown unless it is a bass that happens to reside in an unusually extreme environment.

All of the necks I have or had had the finished rubbed off the back and treated with coats of Howard's Feed-N-Wax, buffed between coats with a fine Scotch-Brite pad. There's never been a problem with those necks.

EDIT TO ADD: They turn out silky smooth. Repeat Feed-N-Wax and buff process application if or when you may feel it's needed.
 
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I don't like nitro on the back of the neck as it can get sticky. What I like now is either tung oil or the EBMM finish.

Poly is not that great, but I prefer it over nitro. I'd leave the poly alone, and sand it down on the back then finish with wax. I did have one MIJ neck develop a twist.
 
Doubt it applies here, but for those who think a finished neck is sticky at times (and don't want a sanded finish or re-finish), just use a good paste carnauba wax (NOTE: Be sure it's wax, and not labeled 'polish', 'polishing wax', etc., as this has fine particles to do a slight compounding as you wipe it on/off). A few coats, and you slide like glass, and hurts or alters nothing. I use Meguiar's every so often, works great.
 
Love everything about this.:thumbsup:

Thanks!

And answering OP's concerns, I see no down side and am not worried about potential twist, etc - though in my case it's a 20 year old neck and hasn't moved in that time and has not demonstrated any instability since being stripped and refinished. Besides, I've seen even the old thick skin poly Fender necks warp so if it's going to move it's going to move...
 
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Doubt it applies here, but for those who think a finished neck is sticky at times (and don't want a sanded finish or re-finish), just use a good paste carnauba wax (NOTE: Be sure it's wax, and not labeled 'polish', 'polishing wax', etc., as this has fine particles to do a slight compounding as you wipe it on/off). A few coats, and you slide like glass, and hurts or alters nothing. I use Meguiar's every so often, works great.
I'd second this. I polish the poly neck on my bass maybe ever other month and it stays smooth and comfortable. The polish also helps keep dirt and grime off the finish, so it's really a win-win IMO.