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"Sliding Saddles" - a Fender Player Series Phenomenon?

bhendrix

bhendrix

May 2, 2009
871
2,928
Atlanta, GA
#1
Not to be confused with "Blazing Saddles" :woot:, my player series jazz seems to experience "sliding saddles" on occasion. I first noticed this near the end of a lengthy jam session when the g string bottomed out from about the 8th fret on up. Noticed the saddle had dropped to almost lowest level. Adjusted with allen wrench and was able to finish session. While practicing and really digging in, noticed it happen again and slightly with d string as well.

Saw a youtube vid yesterday with a guy comparing a squier cv p to a player series p and he commented on having same issue with e string on the player series p.

Now looking to replace bridge - probably go hipshot kickass

Seems some real cheapo screws ended up in these bridges - anyone else have this issue?
 
#3
bhendrix said:
Not to be confused with "Blazing Saddles" :woot:, my player series jazz seems to experience "sliding saddles" on occasion. I first noticed this near the end of a lengthy jam session when the g string bottomed out from about the 8th fret on up. Noticed the saddle had dropped to almost lowest level. Adjusted with allen wrench and was able to finish session. While practicing and really digging in, noticed it happen again and slightly with d string as well.

Saw a youtube vid yesterday with a guy comparing a squier cv p to a player series p and he commented on having same issue with e string on the player series p.

Now looking to replace bridge - probably go hipshot kickass

Seems some real cheapo screws ended up in these bridges - anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...

There is a much easier and cheaper solution to this. Get yourself to your nearest Home Depot or Lowe’s and pick up a tiny tube of blue Loctite ($5). Apply the tiniest amount to the screw and reinstall. Let dry for 24 hours and voila! Your screws should stay in place.

Whatever you do, do not buy red Loctite. That is more or almost permanent (as in, you won’t be able to readjust or remove the screws ever again without a torch).
 
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#4
Cutting corners on an already corners cut low cost bridge? Hm... :greedy::greedy::greedy: Fender :greedy::greedy::greedy:
I was thinking of a player as my next purchase as I have heard good things about the new Alnico Pickups.
Pickups upgrades, screws downgrades. This seems just about right...:speechless:
 
#5
Blue Loctite...but with a twist. Remove the screw and apply a scant amount. Re-insert...but here's the catch...and rotate the screw back 'n forth 360 deg for a couple of minutes or until the assembly starts to squeak. This will gum-up the works and prevent any further slippage but still allow for future adjustment.

Here's another trick: remove the height adjustment screw and gently deform the threads with needle-nose pliers.

Riis
 
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#7
upload_2019-9-8_9-47-6.jpeg
My “Fender” has this bridge.
 

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#8
DrStein said:
Cutting corners on an already corners cut low cost bridge? Hm... :greedy::greedy::greedy: Fender :greedy::greedy::greedy:
I was thinking of a player as my next purchase as I have heard good things about the new Alnico Pickups.
Pickups upgrades, screws downgrades. This seems just about right...:speechless:
Click to expand...
Overall, I've been extremely happy with my Player Jazz! This is the only problem I've had with it and really it's very minor and easier fix than doing a setup. Don't let the cheapy screws deter you if you've found one that otherwise speaks to you!

Will probably upgrade the bridge at some point anyway, just.... because I can! :smug:

I had a 97 mim jazz that I slapped a badass bridge on (to be more geddy like!) and really liked it. I can see by the responses this is pretty common issue with the stock bridge on player basses.
 
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#11
bhendrix said:
Overall, I've been extremely happy with my Player Jazz! This is the only problem I've had with it and really it's very minor and easier fix than doing a setup. Don't let the cheapy screws deter you if you've found one that otherwise speaks to you!

Will probably upgrade the bridge at some point anyway, just.... because I can! :smug:

I had a 97 mim jazz that I slapped a badass bridge on (to be more geddy like!) and really liked it. I can see by the responses this is pretty common issue with the stock bridge on player basses.
Click to expand...

I am not a Fender hater by any means since I have a nice 2019 American Performer HUM Tele and now considering a Player P, but sometimes I question my sanity. How can they get away with a $5 bridge that doesn't even work as intended? Just because they are famous for their P and J series (the "industry standard")? Yes, Gibson basses on the other hand have meh to sh|tty reputation but at least they are trying hard with high quality parts like $100 babicz bridges on their $800 USA basses... And they are semi-bankrupt as well...
 
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#13
bhendrix said:
Not to be confused with "Blazing Saddles" :woot:, my player series jazz seems to experience "sliding saddles" on occasion. I first noticed this near the end of a lengthy jam session when the g string bottomed out from about the 8th fret on up. Noticed the saddle had dropped to almost lowest level. Adjusted with allen wrench and was able to finish session. While practicing and really digging in, noticed it happen again and slightly with d string as well.

Saw a youtube vid yesterday with a guy comparing a squier cv p to a player series p and he commented on having same issue with e string on the player series p.

Now looking to replace bridge - probably go hipshot kickass

Seems some real cheapo screws ended up in these bridges - anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...

Haha .... I meet same problem on my previous mim std jazz in 2007. FMIC dint improve this bridge till today Player bass.

I only prefer Fender Vintage Threatsaddle bridge and I did on my both previous Player P on first day I bring them home.
 
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#16
One of the things that Fenders have going against them is the thread on the bridge adjustment screws is usually a 6-32 thread. That's too coarse, and it tends to do just what you describe. Most foreign made bridges have metric screws that are 3 x .5 mm - rather than 32 threads per inch, they have 50.8 threads per inch. That makes a huge difference - on my basses, when I have a Hipshot bridge (they use 4-40 screws) I tap them for the 3x.5 mm thread (it's just a bit bigger, so this is relatively easy), and I don't have any issues with this. I can even oil the threads, and they just don't slip.

Leo got...some of it right the first time. OK, a lot of it, but not all.
 
Last edited:
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#17
bhendrix said:
Not to be confused with "Blazing Saddles" :woot:, my player series jazz seems to experience "sliding saddles" on occasion. I first noticed this near the end of a lengthy jam session when the g string bottomed out from about the 8th fret on up. Noticed the saddle had dropped to almost lowest level. Adjusted with allen wrench and was able to finish session. While practicing and really digging in, noticed it happen again and slightly with d string as well.

Saw a youtube vid yesterday with a guy comparing a squier cv p to a player series p and he commented on having same issue with e string on the player series p.

Now looking to replace bridge - probably go hipshot kickass

Seems some real cheapo screws ended up in these bridges - anyone else have this issue?
Click to expand...
 
#18
I would take the set screw out, size it a bit larger at the hardware store with a self-tapping screw. When you screw it in it will recut the threads. Too much tolerance from poor machining is the problem but easy to overcome with self-tappers. Then install the setting with or without locktite. The problem with locktite is that if you adjust further, you'll break the locktite seal. Also locktite can damage the finish, whereas the self-tappers will keep everything pristine and looking OEM.
 
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