Promethean P3110 is darn close and sounds very good. I don't know if you are gigging or jamming anywhere with out unless it is a pretty quiet situation overall.
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Small bass cab for travelling
- Thread starter jazzgrowler
- Start date
Tc has a new bq250 bare bones with a map of $200
TC Electronic Thrust BQ250 250-Watt Compact Bass Head
Double the power to the bq500 for $50 more
5lbs
TC Electronic Thrust BQ250 250-Watt Compact Bass Head
Double the power to the bq500 for $50 more
5lbs
Okay, for ease of reference, have excerpted the relevant dimensional information:
One thing you'll have to consider, if using a cab, is the speaker connection and the room that will take. If there's an opening somewhere in the space (or you can neatly make one) for the cable to run through, great, otherwise you'll have to leave enough wiggle room to route the cable along the side of the cab.
Consider, too, that the connector will protrude some distance from the back. Using a right-angle connector can lessen this somewhat. You could also ask the maker of the cab to give it a "pigtail" - i.e. a permanently attached speaker cable - of appropriate length, with one end for the amp -- I saw a nice DIY build on here that incorporated that, but that might be complicating things unnecessarily and could get you in trouble if you damage/yank the cable... I think I'd try a right-angle connector before that.
A combo amp is a possibility, but you'll most likely need to pull it from the shelf to access its controls (not necessarily a huge deal). You will have to allow room for the power cable, then.
Finally, if you are able to remove the "lip" from the shelf that you mentioned earlier, that would give you some wiggle room with the dimensions (amp/cab could protrude a few inches from the shelf and might slide in/out more easily), thought could conceivably make things less secure on the shelf if you do any RV slalom courses.
You will have to account for rubber feet, handles, etc.
I know that @Mike Arnopol has made MAS 18s with speakon connectors in different places to allow them to be used more easily in different positions, but you'll still have to allow for room for/access to the cable and connector, whichever route you take.
One thing you'll have to consider, if using a cab, is the speaker connection and the room that will take. If there's an opening somewhere in the space (or you can neatly make one) for the cable to run through, great, otherwise you'll have to leave enough wiggle room to route the cable along the side of the cab.
Consider, too, that the connector will protrude some distance from the back. Using a right-angle connector can lessen this somewhat. You could also ask the maker of the cab to give it a "pigtail" - i.e. a permanently attached speaker cable - of appropriate length, with one end for the amp -- I saw a nice DIY build on here that incorporated that, but that might be complicating things unnecessarily and could get you in trouble if you damage/yank the cable... I think I'd try a right-angle connector before that.
A combo amp is a possibility, but you'll most likely need to pull it from the shelf to access its controls (not necessarily a huge deal). You will have to allow room for the power cable, then.
Finally, if you are able to remove the "lip" from the shelf that you mentioned earlier, that would give you some wiggle room with the dimensions (amp/cab could protrude a few inches from the shelf and might slide in/out more easily), thought could conceivably make things less secure on the shelf if you do any RV slalom courses.
You will have to account for rubber feet, handles, etc.
I know that @Mike Arnopol has made MAS 18s with speakon connectors in different places to allow them to be used more easily in different positions, but you'll still have to allow for room for/access to the cable and connector, whichever route you take.
Just because I haven't used the Paint program on my computer in awhile...
Assuming that all the quoted info is accurate and I haven't messed anything up, that gives us:
A = 11"
B = 17"
C = 12.5"
D = 16.5"
E = 8.5"
Again, one will have to account for cables, connectors, handles, etc.
Assuming that all the quoted info is accurate and I haven't messed anything up, that gives us:
A = 11"
B = 17"
C = 12.5"
D = 16.5"
E = 8.5"
Again, one will have to account for cables, connectors, handles, etc.
Cabs have only one depth in general. Either it can poke out of the space or it can't.
It will have to be retained somehow or it will slide off a shelf. Is it a shelf?
If it was able to be stowed speaker facing up/right/ left would it get used half as much as when it could be used insitu?
Well, the first post only gave the dimensions of the opening, not the depth of the (somewhat irregularly shaped) box. The 9th and 12th posts contain that info, but it could have been more clearly and succinctly laid out. I didn't catch it all on my late read-through, last night. Phrases like "near the left" also gave me pause as to how exactly the shape of the box could be known from the given info -- that combined with things like handles and rubber feet sticking out made are what made me say, "OP, you'll have to vet any suggestions as to whether they'll fit or not." (No offense intended to the OP -- just don't want to recommend a tight fit that turns out to be a non-fit.) Nevertheless, if I go exactly by what's given (and if I haven't made any goofs), the drawing a few posts up is what I get.
Here's the thing about that irregular shape, even if you use a cab with a rectangular foot print (which, as you point out, is most cabs), a cab that's narrower in front can be a little deeper than one that's the full 17" wide -- a cab that's 12.75" wide, for instance, could be 14.5" deep before the left-rear corner bumps up against the middle of the angled wall -- not accounting for things like plastic corner protectors on the cab, etc. If you're trying to shoe-horn in the biggest cab you can -- or decide whether a certain cab that's close will, in fact, fit or not, that could be relevant, but I think that's best left up to the OP to determine for sure whether or not a "close fit" candidate will work for him.
One of the things I like about the Phil Jones Bass Cub and Double Four is that they both have a separate volume control for the Aux input. The smaller Ampeg combos also have that feature, but even the BA108V2 would be too large for the available space (nice sounding little amp, though).
The MAS 18 I recommended earlier is somewhat wedge-shaped (they are intended to be used as floor wedges in addition to in the "normal" position or stacked on their sides). If you laid it on its side, it would look not entirely unlike the box/shelf space the OP has described and I attempted to draw. Whether it would fit or not, though, I can't say -- it would be close, and would depend on the exact shape and angles of the cab. (The MAS 16 is a few inches smaller -- looks like it would fit, but I am not sure of its exact shape and OP should check with MAS if contemplating going that route.)
The below post is quoted from another thread. The second photo shows a couple of the 18s (small cabs in the front) in a way that gives you a good idea of their shape.
EDIT:
In this case, I would double-check the dimensions before ordering -- I know that Mike and the Big E guys have made some revisions to the cabs in the past and that the powered versions of the cabs (if someone went that route) are a bit deeper/differently shaped in back than the unpowered versions.
Finally, if laying a cab on its side, sans rubber feet, on a hard shelf, some sort of mat/padding to prevent vibration-induced buzzing might be a good idea.
The below post is quoted from another thread. The second photo shows a couple of the 18s (small cabs in the front) in a way that gives you a good idea of their shape.
EDIT:
MAS 18 dimensions from site:
17" tall, 10 1/2" wide, by 15(long side)/9 3/4(short side)" deep. Keep in mind that the depth decreases as you get to the top. Speaking of which--this cab makes a killin' floor wedge.
MAS 16 dimensions from site:
14" x 8 1/4" x 13 3/4" deep
[I don't know if the 16 is wedge-shaped like the 18 or not.]
17" tall, 10 1/2" wide, by 15(long side)/9 3/4(short side)" deep. Keep in mind that the depth decreases as you get to the top. Speaking of which--this cab makes a killin' floor wedge.
MAS 16 dimensions from site:
14" x 8 1/4" x 13 3/4" deep
[I don't know if the 16 is wedge-shaped like the 18 or not.]
In this case, I would double-check the dimensions before ordering -- I know that Mike and the Big E guys have made some revisions to the cabs in the past and that the powered versions of the cabs (if someone went that route) are a bit deeper/differently shaped in back than the unpowered versions.
Finally, if laying a cab on its side, sans rubber feet, on a hard shelf, some sort of mat/padding to prevent vibration-induced buzzing might be a good idea.
Last edited:
I'd negotiate more room. Or be a beast and demand it.
I've done some touring in a Class B RV and ran a PF-50T head and a TL606. I also brought a Barker bass on that tour. I got away with it as it took us to some pretty cool places.
If I wasn't going to play with others, then I'd bring a decent preamp and leave the rig stuff at home. Or, leave the bass stuff at home all together.
I've done some touring in a Class B RV and ran a PF-50T head and a TL606. I also brought a Barker bass on that tour. I got away with it as it took us to some pretty cool places.
If I wasn't going to play with others, then I'd bring a decent preamp and leave the rig stuff at home. Or, leave the bass stuff at home all together.
I have a suggestion. Tell the wife to take a separate car...lol... that's lots of luck, not laugh out loud...
Could you measure the cabinet without the amp bracket? I couldn't find any specs online for just the cabinet with the bracket removed.
To be fair, you could have been more clear initially (and there is still a little ambiguity, if one wants to be picky, though I think the shape is fairly well known now). Also, to be fair, even those who responded in a manner other than as you'd prefer are trying to help you.
Anyway, I wish you a fun trip and good luck with the rig. I hope you have some fun jams along the way.
I had a Genz Benz shuttle 3-.0 8T for a couple of years. It is a great sounding little cab. There should be measurements for it on the old Genz Benz site. It would need to be for small gigs though. FWIW, I also owned a Shuttle 9.0 and preferred the pre-amp of the 3.0.
Have you looked at the MAS Eight? http://www.masoundworks.com/manage.numo?pid=27&module=shopping_cart&component=catalog
I posted a link to the page on the old GB site with specs for the 3.0 8T. There's one for sale in the classifieds now (no affiliation with the seller). Interesting about the preamp -- the 9.0 was HPFed lower -- some more deep lows on tap for bigger cabs -- but the 3.0 (no tube in that one, I think) did seem a little more clear and straightforward -- at least that's how I recall them. A little more like an EA Doubler, tone-wise. I think I might have liked it a little more, too, in that regard, but I never A/Bed them.
I played a couple of late-prototype MAS 18s -- the most impressive tiny cabs I've ever heard, bar none (much louder and goes a lot lower than the 8T, for what that's worth).
Yeah... no tube on the 3.0 and a higher HPF to put less stress on the smaller cabs. Under normal use the differences were subtle but there.
