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Source for Wee Little Threaded Inserts
- Thread starter Gilmourisgod
- Start date
Yeah, came in a pack of 25, so can afford to ruin one or two. Checked my local hardware stores, and nobody seems to carry 4-40 stainless flathead, small wonder. I can get a variety pack of various lengths on Amazon, which will help Jeff Bezos get some of his $40 million back on the Melania Movie. Well, $4 worth anyway. Just doing my part to keep Jeff in skittles and beer.
@Gilmourisgod - In case you don't already have one, this T-Handle Tap Racheting wrench at HF:
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I've got that one and use it all the time..
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I've got that one and use it all the time..
I went with the Mcmaster Carr inserts which have exterior wood thread cutters, so I don't think there is a tap I can use, the website lists the correct drill size as 17/64", which I don't have, so $3.50 more towards the Melania Film Fund via Jeff Bezos. Whoop! Luckily, my local hardware store has the Hillman Fasteners Wall of Screws, including several variants of Wee Little stainless 4-40 screws, so Stick It, Jeff! I'll try the Drillpress Method by cutting the head off a 1-1/2" stainless 4-40 screw, thread it into the insert, and lock it with two 4-40 nuts. Hopefully it doesn't just shear off immediately, but in theory I can hand-turn the drillpress chuck and drive it in with a little downward pressure on the quill. That should ensure it will go in plumb anyway. Will post my experimental result this weekend when I claw out some shop time. Mcmaster Carr has a dedicated installation tool for $12, probably should have gotten one, but per usual, the cheapskate (me) pays the most in the end.
Alex;
The strongest and safest way to install that style of inserts is to install them in epoxy, not driving the external threads into the wood. Drill the hole to the same size as the OD of the threads. Install a waxed machine screw in the insert, preferably a hardened cap screw. Pour some epoxy down in the hole, maybe 1/3 full. Push and twist the insert down into the hole. It shouldn't take much force. Let the epoxy cure, then extract the machine screw.
The epoxy will bond to the walls of the hole with plenty of strength, and the brass threads act as large flanges for the epoxy to grab. It's a very strong permanent installation. With brass threads that will never seize up on the screws, and no risk of splitting the wood.
By the way, the really cool way to do this on a control cover installation is to set the brass inserts down in 1/4" deep below the surface. Then put your machine screws in the cover with a 4-40 Nylock nut on the underside of the cover. Not quite tightened. The screw is then captive to the cover, so it doesn't fall out and get lost. The 1/4" deep pocket above the insert is space for the nut.
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Well... I tried the "Drillpress Method", chucking a 4-40 screw with the head cut off into my drillpress, adding two nuts to lock it to the insert, and turned those nuts with a small crescent wrench while applying downward pressure on the quill. I had drilled the pilot hole with the 17/64" bit McMaster lists for these inserts. It worked, sort of, but seemed to force wood up out of the hole as I drove the insert in, and had that "I'm a screw about to shear off" feeling the whole time. I think I'm going with the @Bruce Johnson method of drilling a hole equal to the outside diameter of the brass threads and epoxy them in. Having one shear off on me half-way in would be a real PITA, and epoxy should be more than strong enough hold for control cavity and pickups screws, which is all I'm likely to use them for.
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I feel like this is another proof-point for the drill/tap/CA EZ-Lok carbon insert approach. It just works!
Kinda wish I'd gone that route, but now that I have 25 of the brass ones (probably a lifetime supply for my tiny bass build output), I'll just run with these. The problem I always have with West System is even (1) metered pump is usually way more than I need for a small job like gluing threaded inserts in, so I end up wasting a lot of it. I have some 5 minute epoxy in the "double barrel syringe" applicator, but that stuff seems to stay way too flexible, it's not good for much. Are any of the 5 minute epoxies good enough for this job? That's why I tend to like 1:1 epoxies, really easy to mix small quantities, though I suppose I could do West System measured on a digital scale.
You don't have to use the pumps to measure the West Systems epoxy. I use a pair of cheap plastic measuring spoons that are 5:1 ratio. I think they are 3ml and 15ml. Use a part of a stroke of the pumps to fill the spoons, then pour them into a mixing cup.
With that said, almost any glue will work for holding in little 4-40 inserts. Any 5-minute epoxy, CA gel, , even Titebond. There isn't a whole lot of structural load on the 4-40 screws for cover plates.
I've been known to sneak my Wife's Kitchen digital scale off to the shop to measure West. Got caught once, She Whom I Adore was... not amused. "But Sweetums, I wrapped it Saran Wrap". Never thought about measuring spoons, you can get 1/5 teaspoon on Amazon for $5, or I coukd use the little ML graduated cups, I just ordered a pack of 100 for little jobs like this.
I've had good luck with the 1:1 epoxies sold as glue in the double syringe thing. Not the 5 minute stuff but those that take about 24 hrs to harden. They don't get glass hard but hard enough for most stuff.
And at least here you can buy them anywhere.
And at least here you can buy them anywhere.
This applies to Beer too, now that they are all 21+.
