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I don't believe I've ever posted this one, so here it is. 1995 SSD NS-CR4 with a Darkglass preamp. The Dunlop Super Bright nickels really sizzle on this one.
Any suggestions for switching to a different preamp in the NS Pulse II? The Tone Pump Jr is fine, but sometimes it's a little too boomy in the lows.
sheldon is trying to source components, so his HAZ clone is out.
I really like the Darkglass tone capsule I installed with emg DC's. Sounds really good. The EMG preamps are also very solid.
I have the Tone Capsule in my Dingwall NG2 and it does sound great. I also have an EMG BTS in a Combustion model which also sounds great. I'm thinking the EMG pre might be closer to what I'm looking for on my NS Pulse II but just seeing what else is out there.
I'm looking for a backup for an NS4CR w/ EMG P/J and BTC.
What's the best bang for buck? Looks like Pulse 2 for active EMGs? How's the QC? Am I better off finding a used Euro?
How difficult is it to find a 35" Euro 4 string?
What's the best bang for buck? Looks like Pulse 2 for active EMGs? How's the QC? Am I better off finding a used Euro?
How difficult is it to find a 35" Euro 4 string?
Euro 4 string 35" is pretty hard to find, but if you are patient they pop up.
If I was buying, I would find an NS2000 or rebop. They can be had for little money, pretty well regarded. There are a couple available currently.
Spector NS 2000 mid-90's - Cherry Red | Reverb
Spector Rebop w/gig bag | Reverb
But if you hold out for a euro, you will be happy.
The rebop I posted is a really good deal. EMG-X already installed.
To anyone that's switched from the DCs to the DCXs,
What were your findings as far as tone/response goes?
What were your findings as far as tone/response goes?
Hi, this is kinda typical question and a matter of taste, but interesting in opinion what pickups height owners of spector ns2/euro 4 has here.
I have 45/105 strings, 4/64 height on 12th fret, classic emg PJ pickups. Im not so interesting in height, mostly in good balance between pickups when mix knob in "center"
So the question, when you press last fret, do you measure the same height(for example 8/64 from pickup to string) for bridge pickup and neck pickup like it says fender? Or bridge pickup you pull up little closer? (for example 8/64 on neck, and 6/64 on bridge)
I have 45/105 strings, 4/64 height on 12th fret, classic emg PJ pickups. Im not so interesting in height, mostly in good balance between pickups when mix knob in "center"
So the question, when you press last fret, do you measure the same height(for example 8/64 from pickup to string) for bridge pickup and neck pickup like it says fender? Or bridge pickup you pull up little closer? (for example 8/64 on neck, and 6/64 on bridge)
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There really isn't going to be a magic number that works for everyone. EMG says their pickups can be as close to the strings as possible, so what I like to do is set the bridge pickup close (like 2 or 3 32nds) and then lower the neck pickup until both sound like they're about the same volume (I'll strum a chord and just roll back and forth until they're about the same).
This should give you a good balance in the center also.
Thank you, I followed your instructions and also checked the volume levels in the DAW on my pc. In the end I got 3/32 on the bridge and 2/32 on the neck pickup
I play only in headphones, so it can be difficult to hear same volume between pickups, thats why im asking)
So I got to take advantage of the fact that my wife and son are away visiting family out of the country and I finished building my project NS2000/5 today. Thanks to @avi and @Thundar for supplying some of the parts.
Pickups: 40P5 in the neck and 40DC at the bridge.
Preamp: KHaz courtesy of @avi, gutted and refreshed with @SNCpre refurbishing kit. Op amp swapped out to LF442 from USA Haz. I soldered leads from the board to EMG quick disconnect kits so that (hopefully) I never break a battery lead off the board again while changing batteries. Seriously... posts for everything but the battery leads, which are placed within microns of the battery itself? What were they thinking?
Bridge: Euro5 bridge courtesy of @Thundar. I had to Dremel out 3/16" on the top and sides of the original bridge rout. Once I put it in I realized the bridge was reflecting the bare wood from inside the rout and it looked awful. So I took a blue sharpie to the inside edge and now you can't tell a thing.
Tuners: Gotoh GB707's I picked up on the 'Verb. Easiest part of this build by far. I have a black set on my other NS2000/5 simply because the plastic bushings on the stock tuners crack over time. These are far superior to the originals.
I debated putting on the crown inlay stickers, but given that this bass has a 1998 serial number, I thought the dots were more period correct for an NS5CR. So there you have it... Project NS5KR plays the part, sounds the part, and now she looks the part.
Pickups: 40P5 in the neck and 40DC at the bridge.
Preamp: KHaz courtesy of @avi, gutted and refreshed with @SNCpre refurbishing kit. Op amp swapped out to LF442 from USA Haz. I soldered leads from the board to EMG quick disconnect kits so that (hopefully) I never break a battery lead off the board again while changing batteries. Seriously... posts for everything but the battery leads, which are placed within microns of the battery itself? What were they thinking?
Bridge: Euro5 bridge courtesy of @Thundar. I had to Dremel out 3/16" on the top and sides of the original bridge rout. Once I put it in I realized the bridge was reflecting the bare wood from inside the rout and it looked awful. So I took a blue sharpie to the inside edge and now you can't tell a thing.
Tuners: Gotoh GB707's I picked up on the 'Verb. Easiest part of this build by far. I have a black set on my other NS2000/5 simply because the plastic bushings on the stock tuners crack over time. These are far superior to the originals.
I debated putting on the crown inlay stickers, but given that this bass has a 1998 serial number, I thought the dots were more period correct for an NS5CR. So there you have it... Project NS5KR plays the part, sounds the part, and now she looks the part.
I've had both and I prefer the P/DC combo, which typically means soapbars. But the beauty of soapbars is you can have any combination you like, including coil spitting with the TW.
Same here! P/DC is killier! The neck pickup in my USA bolt on (avatar) is getting switched to a P next week! So it will be P/MM!
Kevin this turned out awesome! The gold always looks "classic Spector" with blue....Congrats!
Ultimately it really doesn't matter since you can configure the soapbars anyway you want. For me, as long as I've got that reverse P in the neck then its gonna deliver that Spector growl
Thanks man! It's got a lot of your DNA in it lol. I have another one with the same pickup setup and an SNC preamp, but this one just sounds thicker and meatier. Might be the bridge. I just did some recordings with it and was blown away. I'm gonna let the freshness wear off before I officially say it, but it might now be the best sounding Spector I own including 2 USA bolt-ons.
