SPECTOR® Owners Club

[flashgod]

Just purchased a new EURO 4 LT and compared to my other EURO 4 LT from 2020. The volume is significantly louder than the old one. Almost like a fully cranked up LX (with the trim pot). Do you guys have the same experience and what can I do the lower the output, because is crazy loud IMO?

 

[BaltBass5]

Just purchased a new EURO 4 LT and compared to my other EURO 4 LT from 2020. The volume is significantly louder than the old one. Almost like a fully cranked up LX (with the trim pot). Do you guys have the same experience and what can I do the lower the output, because is crazy loud IMO?

The Barts are crazy loud? I have 2 LT’s that had Barts and the DG pre and I had to raise the pickups because the volume was low. I ended up replacing the electronics with active EMG’s and the BTS. They are basically Euro Classics now.

 

[geburgess2]

Just purchased a new EURO 4 LT and compared to my other EURO 4 LT from 2020. The volume is significantly louder than the old one. Almost like a fully cranked up LX (with the trim pot). Do you guys have the same experience and what can I do the lower the output, because is crazy loud IMO?

Are the pickups really high?

Also, if I'm not mistaken, the LT has an internal trim pot for the mids which is a +/- 12dB. Maybe that's turned all the way up?

 

[flashgod]

The Barts are crazy loud? I have 2 LT’s that had Barts and the DG pre and I had to raise the pickups because the volume was low. I ended up replacing the electronics with active EMG’s and the BTS. They are basically Euro Classics now.

Yes they are. I lowered the pickups already, but no big effect.

 

[flashgod]

Are the pickups really high?

Also, if I'm not mistaken, the LT has an internal trim pot for the mids which is a +/- 12dB. Maybe that's turned all the way up?

Same midrange position like my older LT , but big volume difference.

 

[geburgess2]

Same midrange position like my older LT , but big volume difference.

Weird. Different strings maybe with higher output? Though that shouldn't make an enormous volume difference, unless you're going from completely dead strings to like, cobalts or something.

 

[flashgod]

Weird. Different strings maybe with higher output? Though that shouldn't make an enormous volume difference, unless you're going from completely dead strings to like, cobalts or something.

Fresh D’Addario, I am using DR Low riders. I was hoping, that there was a hidden volume trimpot just like in the LX tonepump.

 

[VeryTallBassist]

NSD and happy birthday to me! This beauty just came off the brown truck (Don't worry, it was only shipped from Maryland to NJ. No need to wait 24 hours to open it.) The quality on this bass is the best I have ever seen in a Korean Spector and honestly gives nothing up to the Euros. It's a solid inch of flamed maple on top with a slice of what is presumably walnut and then an alder back. But there's a thin slice of flamed maple top on the back of the wings too. The body is fully curved like all high end Spectors, but the edges are not quite as rounded as the Euros - they're more square like the Ethos in that respect. However, the curve is radiused like the Euros and there is no contour cutout like the Ethos. The bridge is a USA brass bridge. Tuners are Gotoh GB707's. The neck is fantastic - it is the Alex Webster profile, a bit thinner than the Euros but still substantial and very fast. Nut width is the same as the Euros and USA's, not like the narrower nut width typically found on the Korean models. The Barts sound great, and the volume control is an active/passive push pull pot, which is probably a good thing because the only real gripe I have with this bass (aside from the green inlays) is the preamp. The TP Jr. is noisy, plus mine seems to have a shielding issue but only in active mode. I'll have to open it up and look around. I've got some copper tape in my parts drawer that I can use if needed. That said, I already placed an order for an LHZ preamp and with that, this bass will become an absolute beast. I also ordered abalone inlay stickers. We'll see if they provide full coverage, otherwise I'll have to start gigging in Joker makeup

 

[VeryTallBassist]

The control cover is apparently straight from the Euros. But shouldn't the shielding paint come over the edge of the rout to make contact with the foil on the cover? Maybe I can experiment with a little foil tape.

 

[VeryTallBassist]

Nope - didn't work. Now I have to do some digging. The buzz goes away when I touch anything except the screws on the front pickup. Then it gets louder, but only in active mode. Very strange.

 

[makanudo]

NSD and happy birthday to me! This beauty just came off the brown truck (Don't worry, it was only shipped from Maryland to NJ. No need to wait 24 hours to open it.) The quality on this bass is the best I have ever seen in a Korean Spector and honestly gives nothing up to the Euros. It's a solid inch of flamed maple on top with a slice of what is presumably walnut and then an alder back. But there's a thin slice of flamed maple top on the back of the wings too. The body is fully curved like all high end Spectors, but the edges are not quite as rounded as the Euros - they're more square like the Ethos in that respect. However, the curve is radiused like the Euros and there is no contour cutout like the Ethos. The bridge is a USA brass bridge. Tuners are Gotoh GB707's. The neck is fantastic - it is the Alex Webster profile, a bit thinner than the Euros but still substantial and very fast. Nut width is the same as the Euros and USA's, not like the narrower nut width typically found on the Korean models. The Barts sound great, and the volume control is an active/passive push pull pot, which is probably a good thing because the only real gripe I have with this bass (aside from the green inlays) is the preamp. The TP Jr. is noisy, plus mine seems to have a shielding issue but only in active mode. I'll have to open it up and look around. I've got some copper tape in my parts drawer that I can use if needed. That said, I already placed an order for an LHZ preamp and with that, this bass will become an absolute beast. I also ordered abalone inlay stickers. We'll see if they provide full coverage, otherwise I'll have to start gigging in Joker makeup
View attachment 5298397 View attachment 5298398 View attachment 5298399 View attachment 5298400

Ayy! You went for it. Congratz! and Happy birthday!

I too have a noisy preamp when sitting close to the computer. If I face away from it it disappears but at higher treble settings things are still hizzy.

I reached out to Doug from Bartolini and asked if they could help out with my issue of a Hollower/lower output A string on both pickups. How are yours? Is there any chance you'd be bothered to take them out and look under to see which model are they?

Also, I don't know if it's the angle of the picture but they look pretty close to the strings. I pulled mine back a little.

 

[VeryTallBassist]

No issues with my A string. I'll pop out the Barts tonight after I get the kid to bed. I have to play with the pickup height. They're a lot lower than the EMGs, that's for sure.

 

[adamrobertt]

Nope - didn't work. Now I have to do some digging. The buzz goes away when I touch anything except the screws on the front pickup. Then it gets louder, but only in active mode. Very strange.

This isn’t strange at all. It’s completely normal. With passive pickups the bridge is grounded so that when you touch any metal that is also connected to ground, the buzzing stops because your body is completing the circuit.

When you switch to active mode you’re increasing the overall gain of the circuit so you’re just able to better hear the buzz that is always present (because it is now louder).

None of this has anything to do with shielding - all that really does is block extraneous RF frequencies - but the buzz is most likely coming from the wiring in your house and other nearby electronics. Shielding isn’t going to do anything about that.

 

[makanudo]

No issues with my A string. I'll pop out the Barts tonight after I get the kid to bed. I have to play with the pickup height. They're a lot lower than the EMGs, that's for sure.

You're the GOAT.

There's no reference for Bart pickup height or spector manuals anywhere that I've looked, so I went with the usual 3 mm for bass side ant 2 mm treble side and fiddling until it sounds even. I'd be interested in whatever measurements you end up at.

 

[VeryTallBassist]

This isn’t strange at all. It’s completely normal. With passive pickups the bridge is grounded so that when you touch any metal that is also connected to ground, the buzzing stops because your body is completing the circuit.

When you switch to active mode you’re increasing the overall gain of the circuit so you’re just able to better hear the buzz that is always present (because it is now louder).

None of this has anything to do with shielding - all that really does is block extraneous RF frequencies - but the buzz is most likely coming from the wiring in your house and other nearby electronics. Shielding isn’t going to do anything about that.

I don't have this issue at all with any of my other basses. My Music Man basses all have passive pickups and active electronics, and they're dead silent. These Barts are humbuckers, so they shouldn't be picking up EMF from my electronics like single coils do.

 

[avi]

NSD and happy birthday to me! This beauty just came off the brown truck (Don't worry, it was only shipped from Maryland to NJ. No need to wait 24 hours to open it.) The quality on this bass is the best I have ever seen in a Korean Spector and honestly gives nothing up to the Euros. It's a solid inch of flamed maple on top with a slice of what is presumably walnut and then an alder back. But there's a thin slice of flamed maple top on the back of the wings too. The body is fully curved like all high end Spectors, but the edges are not quite as rounded as the Euros - they're more square like the Ethos in that respect. However, the curve is radiused like the Euros and there is no contour cutout like the Ethos. The bridge is a USA brass bridge. Tuners are Gotoh GB707's. The neck is fantastic - it is the Alex Webster profile, a bit thinner than the Euros but still substantial and very fast. Nut width is the same as the Euros and USA's, not like the narrower nut width typically found on the Korean models. The Barts sound great, and the volume control is an active/passive push pull pot, which is probably a good thing because the only real gripe I have with this bass (aside from the green inlays) is the preamp. The TP Jr. is noisy, plus mine seems to have a shielding issue but only in active mode. I'll have to open it up and look around. I've got some copper tape in my parts drawer that I can use if needed. That said, I already placed an order for an LHZ preamp and with that, this bass will become an absolute beast. I also ordered abalone inlay stickers. We'll see if they provide full coverage, otherwise I'll have to start gigging in Joker makeup
View attachment 5298397 View attachment 5298398 View attachment 5298399 View attachment 5298400

Dude! I thought the guy flaked? Glad you were still able to get it! And as far as the green inlays Ethan should love it. Think Hulk - Green with purple pants!
Happy Birthday!!

 

[avi]

Dude! I thought the guy flaked? Glad you were still able to get it! And as far as the green inlays Ethan should love it. Think Hulk - Green with purple pants!
Happy Birthday!!
View attachment 5298694

 

[avi]

Sorry. Couldn't help myself

 

[VeryTallBassist]

Damn, you're ready to go all in on this scheme

 

[VeryTallBassist]

You're the GOAT.

There's no reference for Bart pickup height or spector manuals anywhere that I've looked, so I went with the usual 3 mm for bass side ant 2 mm treble side and fiddling until it sounds even. I'd be interested in whatever measurements you end up at.

Here's the pickup model.