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"spike" tip adapter

Discussion in 'Setup & Repair [DB]' started by bigcello, Mar 5, 2005.


  1. bigcello

    bigcello

    Dec 13, 2004
    Pomona, CA
    So I am thinking quite seriously about installing on of those Christian Laborie Carbon Fiber Endpins...I have been playing on a bent pin (which I bought from George Vance) for quite awhile now and I think that moving the pin's point of contact with the floor a few inches farther makes sense. Plus I have heard great review from Rufus Reid and the like. My question is this: I enjoy having the option of jamming the spike into the wooden floor of a concert or recital hall (something I have missed when using my rubber tipped bent endpin). Does anyone know of a "spike" adapter that can be attched to an endpin rod? Something similar to the Wolf rubber adapter, but with a metal spike instead? Does anyone know of perhaps another option? Thanks in advance. Taylor.
     
  2. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    I think that the Laborie pin is fairly conventional. It is basically a cello pin that is plugged into the back edge of the endblock at an angle similar to the bent pin.

    I don't know why you couldn't buy a "normal" endpin, either bass or cello depending on the shaft size. Either would have the spike already.

    Are you certain the Laborie doesn't come with a spike type endpin. I've never seen any other kind endpin on a bass or cello. Every bass pin I have ever seen is a spike pin with the rubber stopper that screws over it.
     
  3. The only Laborie I have seen in person was Rufus' a couple years ago and it was a CF rod with a rubber ball on one end and a "cork stopper"-shaped plug on the other, which when into the bass. No room for length adjustments and no sharp tip.

    Also, Chasarms, I don't think I've ever seen a hollow endpin (on some cheaper basses) with a pointed tip. Just a rubber stop on a blunt tip.

    ymmv.
     
  4. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    [​IMG]

    So this rubber ball doesn't screw off to expose a spike?
    the pin surely comes out of the bass, otherwise you couldn't bag the bass. So, how is the pin secured in the plug and what is the shaft size?

    If it is fairly conventional, I don't see why you couldn't just use a more common endpin in that plug. Cut it to your preferred length and you have yourself a spike.

    Please note that I have never seen one of these up close, so I'm speculating.
     
  5. Rufus' had no spike. I'd venture to say that the angle at which the 'pin hits the floor would produce grooves in a hardwood floor before it would stick.

    The whole assembly (rubber tip, CF rod, and socket (that "cork-stopper" shaped thing)) all come out of the bass as one unit. The plug is tapered like a regular endpin plug is and I imagine it's just gravity/friction that hold it in. I can't remember if that plug is rubber, wood or CF...
    You can't use a regular pin because
    a: I think the CF shaft is larger than the average 8-10 mm enpin.
    b: the hole doen't go all the way through the endpin block of the bass, just deep enough for the socket.

    This is why so many people suggest getting an EGG pin first. Not only can you determine the best angle for you, but you can figure out the best rod length as well.
     
  6. bigcello

    bigcello

    Dec 13, 2004
    Pomona, CA
    When you purchase the endpin it is uncut, the length of the pin being later determined by the installer/bassist. Basically you just cut the rod to the desired length and pop the rubber ball on the cut edge. I don't know, but I suppose that the carbon fiber could be ground down to a point, but I'm not sure. I did see a spiked adapter for a 'cello endpin through Shar once, but it was like $50, and I don't think it was very wide (as far as the shaft size)...It still kind of gives me the heeby geebies though thinking about drilling a hole in my instrument, you know :) ...we'll see

    'I'd venture to say that the angle at which the 'pin hits the floor would produce grooves in a hardwood floor before it would stick.'

    This may be true as well, but it seems that the angle isn't any steeper than it was when I was sitting on a stool...it's just in the somewhat opposite direction
     
  7. Tom Hutton

    Tom Hutton

    Nov 22, 2004
    Indiana
    I guess those of you who have been at this game a bit longer than me have probably seen this, but I found this to be an interesting and informative article from Bass Player a few years back by David Gage on some pros/cons of fixed and Rabbath style endpins:

    http://www.bassplayer.com/story.asp?sectioncode=112&storycode=3972



    My old bass had a hollow endpin, with the bottom 1" or so solid and blunt - the machine shop at work made it 1" spike in pretty short order...
     
  8. STRONGBOW

    STRONGBOW

    Aug 26, 2005
    I've been using the Laborie CF angled endpin in both of my instruments for the past 3 years. They have the little black rubber ball on the end and that's it. No spike,no nothing. If you take the ball off, you have just the rod tip. The ball works satisfatorilly on most floors/stages, but it tends to skid and give way on linoleum and carpet. I had to play a gig on a linoleum/tile floor once and the instrument kept skidding, so the next morning I took the black ball off, dug out a good old crutch tip. Used black electrician's tape to wind a big enough wad around the end of the pin to accomodate the larger diameter hole of the crutchtip and ouoilla! A brave new world. Never looked back or contemplated using anything else. FYI, the entire Laborie endpin assembly pops out for storage in a pocket or bow quiver while traveling with the bass. Christian installed my pins himself. He sits the bass down on a table, takes a 1/2 or 5/8 inch drill bit and drills this hole at a 45 degree angle into the end block behind the existing endpin hole, nearly all the way to say, within 1 inch of the back edge. Then he takes an endpin reamer and reams and smooths the new hole. Then he takes a look at your height and cuts off the end of the CF pin "blank" to the correct height, and puts the pin in the hole, and then installs the little rubber ball (which I no longer use). The whole operation takes about 10 minutes and he charged $75-- $15 to drill and ream the new endblock hole and a whopping $60 for the CF pin. You can do this yourself if you know how to drill straight and can ream the hole and you can buy the Laborie endpin "blanks" from George Vance at www.Slavapub.net There are also complete instructions on George's website for doing the installation yourself. Need adobe acrobat to open the instructions.