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Squier bass differences?

Oh, you got bad luck,man. My 2012 fiesta red CV 60p not only have clear E string tone, another extra bonus is zero dead spot on the neck.
I haven't closed the book on them. If I see one in a store or on CL I will definitely have a look. It would be such a great twin to pair with my RW jazz in the same colour scheme. My VM 70's J is a keeper.
 
I think most of them are OK to pretty good.
There is more difference between individual basses than between models.

The parts that you may want to change out would be the pots and tuners.
Most of them work OK and get the job done just fine, but in time they are more likely
to be the first parts to give you trouble.
Even then, I wouldn't rush out to change them before they wear, unless you
just want to spend money or change it just to say you did.

The pickups may be uneven from string to string.
Most are alright.
The most likely cause of people changing pickups is personal taste.

There were a few Protones that are even better than the Standards.

The only ones I would be sure to avoid are the Koreans with the plywood bodys.
Most of us don't like plywood, the necks are narrower at the heel and they used the very cheapest parts.

If you start off planning from the beginning to extensivly mod it, get a Chinese Affinity because they used
Alder for the bodys, rather than basswood or whatever was cheapest that day.
I was just going to say that about the bodies. I think with Fender sometimes the right hand doesn't know what the left hand is doing. Hence you have the cheaper Affinity line coming in with alder bodies. I haven't had any problems to date with the cheaper tuners that came on my VM 70's J or my "Barracuda " J clone. They look to be the same tuners. At this price point I feel there is much more difference from bass to bass than in the expensive basses so "try before buy" is a must.
 
are there differences in the finish on the back of the necks?

I notice the affinty doesn't have skunk stripe? the others do?
Some Squiers have gloss finished necks and some satin finished. It wouldn't affect my decision one way or another. You can always knock down some gloss with 1000 grit sandpaper if it bothers you. As for skunk stripes, a one piece neck is going to have a skunk stripe for sure, but not all necks with skunk stripes are one piece. Sounds confusing but it's all about the truss rod installation. With a separate fretboard the sensible thing is to route the channel for the rod and install it before gluing the board on. Sometimes though they route through the back of the neck even with a separate fretboard and the filler piece covers the routed channel.
 
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Last fall I purchased (new) a Squier VM Jazz V because I needed a five-string for a cover band in which I play. Before it even had arrived, I bought a Hipshot bridge because it was $35 on CL; I typically upgrade bridges anyway, so I figured I'd take the bridge to the tech to install as he set the new bass up. That (plus the switch to Rotos) is the only change I made. I've been quite impressed with it; sometimes, when I'm "traveling light" I'll take just that bass with me.

More recently I purchased (slightly used) a Fender MIM Geddy Lee Jazz. The MIM has better pickups (note: the Squier is too late a model to have the Duncan Design pickups), but the Squier has better tuners. I don't want to mod the GL at all but I might upgrade the tuners if I get a good deal on some direct replacements.

I don't think either bass is as good as my '80 Rickenbacker 4001 -- but it'd be unfair to make that comparison. But the VM Squier is pretty damn impressive for a bass that cost less than $400 new. It stands heads and shoulders above the Affinity models I've played. But there's nothing wrong with those Affinity basses for the price you pay for them.
 
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Last fall I purchased (new) a Squier VM Jazz V because I needed a five-string for a cover band in which I play. Before it even had arrived, I bought a Hipshot bridge because it was $35 on CL; I typically upgrade bridges anyway, so I figured I'd take the bridge to the tech to install as he set the new bass up. That (plus the switch to Rotos) is the only change I made. I've been quite impressed with it; sometimes, when I'm "traveling light" I'll take just that bass with me.

More recently I purchased (slightly used) a Fender MIM Geddy Lee Jazz. The MIM has better pickups (note: the Squier is too late a model to have the Duncan Design pickups), but the Squier has better tuners. I don't want to mod the GL at all but I might upgrade the tuners if I get a good deal on some direct replacements.

I don't think either bass is as good as my '80 Rickenbacker 4001 -- but it'd be unfair to make that comparison. But the VM Squier is pretty damn impressive for a bass that cost less than $400 new. It stands heads and shoulders above the Affinity models I've played. But there's nothing wrong with those Affinity basses for the price you pay for them.
I've heard good things about the Hipshot lightweight tuners that cut out something like half a pound right where it counts the most. They have a different screw hole pattern though.
 
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There have been Squiers made in:
Japan
Mexico
Korea
China
Indonesia
and I think a few were made in India for a brief time...

They Japanese ones are highly thought off
Some of the E series Koreans were really well built.

Current era:
affinity series are the intro model...solid for the $...$100 is a good deal
Vintage Modified - good basses for the $...
Above are made in Indonesia iirc

Classic Vibe- nice basses...step up from the other two and, arguably, closer to MIM level Fender.

They are all cometely serviceable instruments.
The P versions sound like P basses...I liked the stock pickup on the CV and VM PS I had well enough to gig and record them stock.
Not a "skwyre" guy, but the nicest sounding/playing one I have ever laid my hands on was an India built one.
 
I have a James Johnston Squier. Awesome bass. Not sure if it's a Classic Vibe or not.

image.jpeg
 
I think most of them are OK to pretty good.
There is more difference between individual basses than between models.

The parts that you may want to change out would be the pots and tuners.
Most of them work OK and get the job done just fine, but in time they are more likely
to be the first parts to give you trouble.
Even then, I wouldn't rush out to change them before they wear, unless you
just want to spend money or change it just to say you did.

The pickups may be uneven from string to string.
Most are alright.
The most likely cause of people changing pickups is personal taste.

There were a few Protones that are even better than the Standards.

The only ones I would be sure to avoid are the Koreans with the plywood bodys.
Most of us don't like plywood, the necks are narrower at the heel and they used the very cheapest parts.

If you start off planning from the beginning to extensivly mod it, get a Chinese Affinity because they used
Alder for the bodys, rather than basswood or whatever was cheapest that day.

+1 to EVERYTHING Mr. Whitehurst said. Check out individual basses. You'll be pleasantly surprised at how nice some of the Affinity models are. Also, check out the necks. Some of the Affinity necks rival or exceed the quality of a VM, CV or even some higher models. Yes, it's hit-and-miss, but I've come across quite a several of these gems. As for the bodies, almost every single Made-In-China affinity models (earlier years, at least) have an excellent Alder body beneath the finish. I've even managed to score 2 natural MIC bodies that were exquisite. On the other hand, lots of the Chinese Affinity's had the smaller tuners on them, so you either live with that or swap necks/tuners, etc. Great and affordable projects!
 
The Andertons review is really one of the very best I have seen comparing the Squier, MIA and USA jazzes. Thanks tlite for posting. I would expect that the differences between P basses would be about the same. It is quite clear that Fender has done a great job to keep the tonality the same from one to the other - no one could tell the difference between them! While the detailed discussion is very good - you just have to watch the summary from 34:50 on to hear the non-difference. Well done.
 
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Anderton's did a comparison you may find helpful (though this was for Jazz basses, not P's):



FWIW: I have a Squier VM Jaguar Special (PJ configuration) that I bought for under $150. Wired it up passive and am super happy with it.


I just got the exact same bass from a thrift store. Definitely keeping it! And it needs NOTHING.
 
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I've posted abot this before, but I was curious if anyone else has owned or has tried one of the "Starcaster by Fender" P or J-basses? I assumed that they were sub-Squier in the heirarchy of FMIC, and now appear to be discontinued.

However, the Precision-bass "Starcaster" I have over at the shop is an entirely serviceable instrument, once I gave it a setup. I've played it on a gig, use it for lessons, and don't think there's anything that "needs" to be changed on it at all. Pickups read 10.5K, has the dime-sized pots, hardware is not great, but totally works.

If the Affinities are better, they're probably pretty dang good.
 
Have two of the Indonesian Squier "Standards" from the early 2000s. They are far better than most of the Fenders that were around when I was a kid (mid-late 70s). Only complaint is they're a touch heavy, but then again so is their tone. I don't use them often but have no intention of getting rid of them. Think the most expensive one was $149.

I've worked in a few music stores over the decades and the only bad Squiers I've ever played were the ones made in India.

Even the Affinitys are miles above any beginner bass around when I was a kid. Five minutes to adjust the action and I'd gig one. I wouldn't be as thrilled as with one of my normal stable, but there's really no reason you couldn't.
 
The CV ones I have played (and owned) were all consistently good. The VM also, but a notch lower precision and wood quality, IME.
Then you can buy anything Squier from Japan, IMHO. I own a couple myself (JV + E series) and tried some in shops. Better fit and attention to detail than most MIA, including the post 2012 ones. I played a number of such 2012 and up MIA before I found one that was on par with my Japanese Squiers.
The only replacement I would consider is a pickup upgrade.
 
Have two of the Indonesian Squier "Standards" from the early 2000s. They are far better than most of the Fenders that were around when I was a kid (mid-late 70s). Only complaint is they're a touch heavy, but then again so is their tone. I don't use them often but have no intention of getting rid of them. Think the most expensive one was $149.

I've worked in a few music stores over the decades and the only bad Squiers I've ever played were the ones made in India.

Even the Affinitys are miles above any beginner bass around when I was a kid. Five minutes to adjust the action and I'd gig one. I wouldn't be as thrilled as with one of my normal stable, but there's really no reason you couldn't.
I can remember some of the low end budget instruments from Japan and Hong Kong when I was a kid. They were the absolute last thing people turned to if they were desperate. The affinities are streets better.
 
I can remember some of the low end budget instruments from Japan and Hong Kong when I was a kid. They were the absolute last thing people turned to if they were desperate. The affinities are streets better.
When was that? It is a fact (not opinion) that from first introduction, the early 80s JV Squiers from Japan were very good, and FAR better than Affinity models ever were.