• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Squier Vintage Modified TB Mods

I know there are quite a few VMTB owners, and quite a few have done some mods... so I'd like to join the ranks (maybe start a club in the future) but I need some help doing it.

Here's the list of mods I plan to make:

Color
I have a few photoshop options (sorry about the sloppy PS work. I'm at work, so I'm in a rush), but I'm open to sugestions:
1-1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

7.jpg

6.jpg


Neck
Block Inlays (stickers or replacement neck???) Has anyone used block stickers? I can't imagine liking the look of those, however I'm certainly not skilled enought to route true inlays myself. Replacing the neck sucks, because they're great necks in the first place, and I'm sure a blocked tele neck would cost more than the whole bass. Also, I'd like to sand and coat the neck in a new tint to give it a really smooth, but not plain pale maple look.


Badass Bridge (string through body)
Is this a drop in job? I have the bridge on another bass, string through and routed for strings...

PUPS (Either change the wiring to series/single/parallel or throw in a Darkstar)
This is a big decision. I could pocket $200 and own a danelectro 63 longscale bass, OR toss in a darkstar. I have two basses that are staying in the stable (a Fender American P deluxe and a t-40). The Dano would be my fourth bass.

Please help. This dilema is beyond gas, and I need some insight from friends who will understand.
 
I've been playing a stock Squier VM TB for over a year now and been contemplating a couple of mods myself. Here is my take.

Color: I like the sunburst and wouldn't change it. Personal preference.

Neck: I find the neck on these basses to be excellent. Others who have played my bass also comment on how comfortable the neck is. In fact, I've seen postings here in TB from people wanting to purchase one of these necks there so nice. IMHO, if it's not broken don't fix it.

Pup/wiring: Some people like, some don't. I'd change the wiring per your message before replacing the pup. That my be all that is required. Also, I'm planning on replacing the entire wiring harness with better pots, wire and shielding the control cavity. The pots on these basses are awful IME.

Hope this helps!
 
It does! The neck's block inlays are purely cosmetic. I really think that in a perfect world every bass would have blocks, or no inlays at all (although my deluxe's abalone dot inlays are beautiful and fitting). I do feel so comfortable with the neck that replacing it would be a tough sell. So i think i'm going to research the block stickers, maybe even just buy some and see how i feel about them.

I like the sound of the stock pup, but I find that I have to really change the settings on my amp to get a tone that I like. That being said, I really LOVE the tone once I'm there. Pushing the mids and hi's on my amp, while using the extreme bassiness of the TB both bumps the hair off my legs and the hair in my ears. TMI I know.

What mods are you contemplating? I would love to add a mid tone control. I wonder how hard that would be. I would absolutely want to maintain the simplicity of two knobs though.
 
I've got one that has been heavily modded in previous lives. The only actual mod I've done is add a series/parallel switch to the pickup which allows me to go from deep dark mud to more of a standard P sound.

Here's a pick before my mod, but the only difference is an added switch in line with the knobs.

4068320311_e630751a6c_o.png


In a perfect world I'd also refinish this sucker in vintage white, but that is the one mod I've learned not to do on my own :)
 
What mods are you contemplating? I would love to add a mid tone control. I wonder how hard that would be. I would absolutely want to maintain the simplicity of two knobs though.

Well, the one mod I have done is I replaced the chrome PG screws with black screws.....makes the PG seem like it's floating there. Small, but I liked the cosmetic change.

I am going to replace all the control cavity stuff including pots, output jack, wiring and shielding the control cavity. I'm also going to do the parallel/serial mod. From what I've read, that mod should help make the bass less dark.

If I do it myself, the parts would cost about $70.00.
 
Well, the one mod I have done is I replaced the chrome PG screws with black screws.....makes the PG seem like it's floating there. Small, but I liked the cosmetic change.

I am going to replace all the control cavity stuff including pots, output jack, wiring and shielding the control cavity. I'm also going to do the parallel/serial mod. From what I've read, that mod should help make the bass less dark.

If I do it myself, the parts would cost about $70.00.

the series/parallel mod makes a world of difference. It brightens up the sound and makes it sit in the mix better like a P
 
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but can anyone help me out with a diagram or further info on the parallel/series switch mod? Would it be possible to do a mod like this with a push/pull pot rather than a switch to minimise the cosmetic impact?

My TB is a backup to my '51 reissue, I'd originally gone looking for the new 50's Classic Vibe PB but when I tried the TB with it's through body bridge I was sold! As much as I like the humbucker it would be nice to have the option of a more compatible single coil(ish) sound to go with it. Any tips?

Bruce