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Stingray Classic - What to do?

#41
Caca de Kick said:
The 1st thing that will be impossible is EBMM doesn't sell bridges. So to find one, someone would have to be parting out a Classic.
But to answer your question, yes you'd have to drill a bunch of holes. The mute plate is longer and those thumbscrews have holes in the body for them to go up and down when you set the mute pads up. Then you have to have the string thru-body holes and install ferrules. So you're drilling 8 holes total. Cool? it would be, but it would make more sense to just buy a used Classic.



For me it was the gloss neck finish and slightly smaller frets.
The finished necks dont get ugly-dirty like the raw necks( I get tired of maintaining the unfinshed ones), and to me feel less sticky. The smaller frets make it overall less metallicy.
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I was thinking of an older bridge, but that answers my question anyway. Thanks :)
 
#42
I have a classic 2010 and a 1979 SR-4. The 79 has the edge, but both fine basses. Extremely well made and high quality all around. Both have a very balanced tone and nice mid range presence for Alt Pop Rock, Rock, and X-over Country that I play. I play finger style and don't slap and clank, but get a a great clear tone and nice punchy low end with the 2 band EQs. I also have a 06 3 band Buttercream that sounds fantastic too, but is different than the 2 band CL and PreEBMM. It also does a great job and has a really deep low end and a hint of clank (in a good way for what I Play) when I dig in, but calms down when played a bit lighter with finess. I really like the 2 band CL and Pre-EBMM for playing in the mix, but the Buttercream sounds awesome too. The buttercream LE has the flat neck radius in comparison to the CL & preEBMM. If it were me, I'd keep my eyes open for a used CL, some great deals out there.

I also use P-basses and G&L L1Ks too, and they all have their nitche, but can all do the job fine and are a pleasure to play.

Reb
 
#44
I bought a Classic 4 String one year ago at GC and couldn't be happier. Originally $1,799 but got them down to $1,500 or so (never pay what they are asking). Beautiful birds eye maple neck and fingerboard with a sea foam green body. SEXY!!! I found that it was the best sounding and playing bass for that price out of several guitar stores in the area. Keep in mind that these basses probably have Ernie Ball Super Slinky strings on them, making them super bright and twangy. I personally don't like them, so the first thing I did was put on some DR Low Riders or Marcus Millers or something like that.

In my opinion, a Classic is worth saving for.
 
#45
fourstringdrums said:
I was thinking of an older bridge, but that answers my question anyway.
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:)
For the older bridge you'd have to find an Ernie Ball era from 93-95. That's because they have the offcenter mounting like the newer bridges do. So that one *should* just bolt right in with only 4 holes needed being drilled instead of 8.
The earlier 81-92 top loader bridges are center mounted, so those won't quite work.
 
#50
jallenbass said:
I'm planning a scheme to bypass this and go right for the Classic. If that doesn't work I'll go for the SBMM Ray34ca.
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Great choice in going for the classic !!! You will fall in love with the neck !!! My Classic !!!

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#54
You could always wait a few weeks or maybe months to see if you get over your GAS. If not...The Classic is a nice bass, and you're starting to see them pop up on Guitar Center's USED section for about $1299-$1499. If that's what you want- SAVE for it. Don't compromise...because you'll never be completely happy with anything less.

I wouldn't be discouraged because some forumites call them garbage...that's their opinion. If it's what you like go for it. I've owned several MM basses, and never had a problem with any of them...but deep down, I always prefered the Fender sound. The 2 band eq can definietly get a warmer tone than the 3 band models, and I prefer having a finished neck, because the elements won't affect it as much.
 
#56
I stumbled across this thread (thinking about adding an SR Classic). Like others, I suggest saving up and not settling for less than what you really want. Waaaay back in the '60s I didn't buy a Fender Precision because I didn't have the $75 for the case. Cases were extra then; about $250 for the P and $75 if you wanted the HSC. I bought a Hagstrom, which was a great bass, but always regretted not waiting a few weeks more to get the Fender. Took me another 10 years (between cars and surfboards...) before getting a Precision which I still have. Good luck with whatever you decide.
 

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