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String experts: Are these Strings DR Fatbeams?

This will not work for me. With threaded saddles, If you move the string over one notch inward, then they pull the saddle outward leaving a small gap between the saddles. If you move the string outward one notch then the strings are too close to the edge of the fret-board(Especially on a Precision Vs. a Jazz bass.
I don't have any fender basses to try it with but I can't knock it till I try it. All my bridge saddles I make sure are dead straight and I find that it produces the richest overtones and most consistency string to string. But your mileage will vary and different strokes for different folks apply. Everyone does it a little different and as long as it's staying in tune and intonated you're good.
 
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This will not work for me. With threaded saddles, If you move the string over one notch inward, then they pull the saddle outward leaving a small gap between the saddles. If you move the string outward one notch then the strings are too close to the edge of the fret-board(Especially on a Precision Vs. a Jazz bass.
Tilting the saddle also pushes the string outward -about the equivalent of one notch. Six of one, half dozen of the other.
 
Level the saddles and move the strings over one notch to lock the saddles in place. When the saddles are tilted it unevenly distrubutes the downward pressure. It's not a big deal, but most people tilt the saddles because they misunderstand the advice that the saddles should be adjusted to follow the radius of the fretboard.
How much does it really matter?
 
Could be DR Highbeams, Fatbeams, or Lowriders. All have the same wraps, fatbeams are just wound and a much slower speed, and Lowriders have a hex core instead of round cores. They all look exactly the same on the outside.
Thanks, They look to be round core viewing the Ball end but they are super stiff. They are way too stiff for me actually so gonna put my Dogal flats back on.
 

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