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String Guidance

In general, I feel that thicker-gauged strings sound fuller (maybe tubbier) because their added mass doesn't allow them to vibrate as much/freely as thinner strings. Excellent for playing groovy fundamentals, but if you like to slap, tap, and play fast runs/fills (especially up the neck), they're not so great for that.

I also find that thicker-gauged strings go deader a little quicker.

That being said, gauge is not the only factor. Core thickness plays a part too. For example, a 45-105 set of Dunlop SuperBrights will feel more spongy under the fingers than a 45-105 set of GHS hex-core Boomers because the SuperBrights have a very thin hex core and the Boomer have a thicker one.

You don't always need thick, bridge-cable type strings to get low action. You could get lower action using a 45-105 set of DR Lo-Riders than you could with a set of 45-105 DR Hi-Beams simply because the Lo-Riders' hex-core makes them a little stiffer. And then you have 45-105 DR DDTs that have an even thicker core because they're designed for drop tuning.

And Derek Boyer of Suffocation (a death metal band that uses low tunings) uses 45-65-80-100-130 D'Addario ProSteels, which is a far lighter gauge than you'd expect from a death metal band. He says that he doesn't need a big string to get a big tone. That he doesn't have to mash or clobber the "lighter" strings as hard to get a big tone and can reserve some of his energy. Economy of motion and all that.

Then again, I'm a string-GASer and am always trying to find "the" string. I feel like the bass chooses the strings, and I'm still on a journey to find "the ones" for my basses.
 
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What strings sound right (or wrong) and/or feel right (or wrong), well others can only describe them from their experience, which may be quite useless.

Aside from stainless sounding brighter than nickel, and roundwounds having much different tone from flatwounds, after that it's all subjective, brand to brand and product to product.

It's kind of like food: You just have to try it yourself. Someone can tell you about wonderful sushi or the perfect Mexican molle', but you never know if you'll like it till you taste it yourself. You're just going to have to try different strings and sort out what works for you and what doesn't. We all did.

And that bit about lower action because stiffer strings move less is somewhat bogus. The right setup (by a pro if necessary) for your touch works with just about any type of string. Relief and action are set to the strings on the bass when the work is done, and it's not made any easier by 'strings that move less'.
 
No harm trying if you liked them on the other Stingray and play a semi tone down in pitch. But you might have to open up the nut which will make it hard to go back. I think most nuts are aimed at 45 on new instruments?

I tried the heavier gauge Labellas at one point but they choked that particular bass. I have FLs now which are slightly lighter than your FSs. If you play a wide variety of cover tunes, would the 52s box you in a bit on "that" tone?
 
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One thing I'll mention is that gauge does not necessarily translate directly to string tension, particularly in the case of flats. There are plenty of examples of different strings of the same gauge having different levels of stiffness.
 
I find lighter gauge strings to be more "ringy", and have less attack at the beginning of the note. After using fairly light strings for the past few years, I am back to 45-105, and am super happy about it. Not really any harder to play for me, and way more presence in the mix.
 
The original 1954 Labella set is constructed a little differently compared to the other 760 Labella flatwound sets which are all the same except for the gauges. There is a tonal difference beyond just being thicker. IIRC the ribbon is a little different.
 
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Bass string afficiondos..... I could use some string advice.

I've been using Labella 45-105 760FS Deep Talkin Flats for as long as I can remember. I temporarily used a Stingray that had 52 -110's on it (sitting in on one song) and just loved the way they felt. After the set I spoke to the owner, who stated he was able to get the action much lower with stiffer strings because the radius of the vibration is smaller on them (i.e. less floppy).

While I see light and extra light strings get a lot of love around here, I'm seriously thinking about getting a set of 52-110's now that I played them. I would start with my Stingray, as that's what his bass was. Sure I could just purchase them and find out myself, but would rather ask (before I throw $50 at them) if there is a difference in sound at all on the thicker gauges? If so, is it noticeable? Since I couldn't go out into FOH while playing I have no idea what they sounded, but I just loved the stiffness and lower action. Also, does what he said ring true about being able to get a lower action with a stiffer string (all other things being equal)?

One more point. I'm in a variety cover band who plays everything a half step down. Does the thicker gauge make more sense in this scenario.......or is low tension generally better because they simply play easier?

What say you?
Well...
First - "Tension" and "Stiffness" are not necessarily the same thing. High tension will make even a piece of fishing line feel stiff, but bass strings are not fishing line. some strings - right out of the package - are stiffer that others, even though the tension of the strings is zero. Holding a new string about 18" from the ball end, and seeing how far it droops down from your hand, is a quick 'n dirty indication of how stiff the string will feel. La Bella Low Tension Flexible Flats, for instance, droop noticeably less than TI Jazz Flats do, even though the Labella's have less pull-to-pitch tension than the TI's.
Second - Yes; all other things being equal? Heavier strings are stiffer strings, and stiff strings will let you set the string action lower than (usually) lighter, and more flexible strings will.
Third - It's hard to give cut and dried answers here, because there are so many variables between all the strings that all the different companies make. But, as a general rule? Some bass players prefer lighter gauge strings, simply because they are pretty much always "easier" to play. Some players also like them because - as far as flats go? Lighter gauges generally have more mids and highs than heavier gauge strings do. Personally, I have just about every gauge set that La Bella DTF's come in, except the 0760M "1954 Traditionals", and both the Beatle Bass sets - although I do use the 760FX's, which are the same gauge as one of the Beatle Bass sets. They do, indeed, get "brighter" as the gauges go down. They all still sound like La Bellas, though... So;
I suppose it boils down to what you want; stiff, heavy strings that give you really low action? Or, lighter gauge strings that, in the long run, are easier to play. Personally, I'm sort of in the middle. All but 3 of my 27 basses wear flats, and with the exception of 2 Danelectros that wear the 39-96 760FX's? All my flats are 40-100's or heavier. The TI Jazz Flats on my Alembic Epic are the most flexible flats I have, but the string action is my usual 0.012" at the 8th fret, and the string height is... well, however thick a nickel is, on the last fret. Plenty low, and they are certainly easy to play. The neck of my Rick 4003 is almost dead flat, but the comparatively low tension 45-100 Optima 4440 RB Flats are set low, and stiff enough that I can easily get fret buzz when I want, if I just play a little harder. Same goes for the 45-105 La Bella 760FS's on my aluminum-necked Kramer 450B. It just depends on what you want... :cool:
 
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The original 1954 Labella set is constructed a little differently compared to the other 760 Labella flatwound sets which are all the same except for the gauges. There is a tonal difference beyond just being thicker. IIRC the ribbon is a little different.
I used those strings for about 10 years. The same set. Back in the 70s. Yes I was one of those people. In my opinion, the 760 series is a vast improvement. On the original set, the low E string had terribly out of tune overtones, that only went away once the strings were completely dead. They were better than the strings Fender was shipping on their own basses, that's about all I can say about them.