String tension/gauge/action

[green3101]

Or even some slightly higher gauge pro steels

would love to hear people’s thoughts.

 

[woody357]

So would the general rule be, that if you’re hands are on the smaller side - to stick with the lighter gauge strings.

or do you think the heavier gauge (I wouldn’t go heavier than 45-105) would be fine, and can achieve lower action?

I don’t agree with the part about hand size. Hand size doesn’t make a difference when it comes to string gauge, but what does is string spacing, and that isn’t a big thing if you your technique is adequate.

 

[GIBrat51]

A set of rubber bands on a neck that has enough ski slope to serve at the Olympics will feel worse than a set of bridge cables on a properly set up instrument.

As above: have a complete setup done on the bass so you will really know how any particular set of strings feels on the bass.

Also, tension, as in the force required to bring a string up to pitch, and flexibility, are two completely different items, also as set forth above.

^THIS^ Absolutely. I had Roto 77LDs on both my A-necked '78 P-Bass and my '18 Gibson Thunderbird. And, trust me; at 214 lbs. total pull-to-pitch tension? Those things really are bridge cable stiff. But, I had those basses set up just right, and playing those strings was no trouble - at all. I have GHS Precision Flats on the P-Bass now, but; that's for the "real", '60s P-Bass tone. Not the Roto's stiffness. And, those Precision Flats are no slouch in the stiffness department, either. As for the T-Bird? I wound up selling it, for reasons that had nothing to do with the strings. Which, tone wise on that 'Bird? To die, for, IMO...
So, yeah... a proper setup - to your preference - will let you know if the problem is the strings - or the setup. And, learning to do it yourself (it really, truly, is not rocket science) will be a big, big help. And, save you money that you can use for strings to experiment with...