Strings to compensate tension for u/s truss rod?

[DCCat]

The world (or at least this bit of it) seems to divide into the fixers and the chuckers. I'm a fixer.

If this situation is any indication, you're a work-arounder, not a fixer. A fixer would fix the actual problem: the truss rod.

 

[aprod]

You are polishing a turd.

 

[iiipopes]

I have a bass with a truss rod that isn't behaving. I have 40-96 stainless rounds on it, and it seems to be holding up just fine until I can get the truss rod fixed.

 

[ChickWithaRic]

This isn't fixing anything. The neck is absolutely fundamental to tone and playability. All you're going to achieve is creating a bass that will behave weirdly and unpredictably from one day to the next.

Please understand I'm not in any way criticizing you for wanting to salvage something from the wreckage, but the only reliable and lasting way out of this involves spending money. I think you need to decide if this bass is worth the time, effort, and money involved in fixing it permanently.

You do have options. You could look for a used SoundGear neck - they are out there, I guarantee you - and fit that. Problem instantly solved.

You could buy a paddle headstock generic neck in the appropriate scale length and fit that, after much adjusting and shaving, and almost certainly repositioning the bridge to achieve correct scale length because the Ibanez neck pocket quite probably won't put the (usually Fender type) neck where it needs to be.

You could have the fretboard removed (which would almost certainly destroy it), truss rod replaced, new fretboard fitted. That's what I'd do, but I have the skills and the tools for it. At least, enough of both to attempt it.

I feel your pain. One of my very first basses suffered a broken truss rod. You could actually hear it rattling. A replacement neck fixed it after months of trying to fix it myself. I hope you get it fixed.

 

[themickster]

I have an Ibanez SR300DX, Korean-made, from 2000-ish. When I received it the truss rod was rusted and useless - my luthier gave up on it. The neck has too much bend in it and the action is very high. I've experimented with reducing tension by tuning down the strings which were on it when I got it (roundwound, red silk both ends, silver bobbins, feel 'normal') as the only way I can reduce the neck bend, and with C sharp/F sharp/B/E I can get a still-high but much more usable action. However the E string sounds strange and feels floppy and in any case I'd like to tune to standard EADG. I could just look for a replacement neck with a working truss rod, but I'd rather have a try at making what I have usable first.

I appreciate that this is all vague and guesswork-y, but can anyone here suggest a set of strings that would give me lower tension somewhere near to the tuned-down 'normal' set I've now got, but at standard pitch?

Did he take off the fingerboard to swap the truss rod? That might cost as much as buying a new bass, though.

 

[Chrisk-K]

You need to move on instead of wasting more money.

 

[mrjim123]

After further consideration, disregard my previous string suggestion. I agree with those who recommend fixing the truss rod. Good luck!

 

[-Asdfgh-]

I have an Ibanez SR300DX, Korean-made, from 2000-ish. When I received it the truss rod was rusted and useless - my luthier gave up on it. The neck has too much bend in it and the action is very high. I've experimented with reducing tension by tuning down the strings which were on it when I got it (roundwound, red silk both ends, silver bobbins, feel 'normal') as the only way I can reduce the neck bend, and with C sharp/F sharp/B/E I can get a still-high but much more usable action. However the E string sounds strange and feels floppy and in any case I'd like to tune to standard EADG. I could just look for a replacement neck with a working truss rod, but I'd rather have a try at making what I have usable first.

I appreciate that this is all vague and guesswork-y, but can anyone here suggest a set of strings that would give me lower tension somewhere near to the tuned-down 'normal' set I've now got, but at standard pitch?

Roto RB35s (35..95), Rotosound slappers strings (30...90) or TI Jazz rounds (spendy but nice).

 

[Ric5]

You can try the light set of GHS Booemers (40-55-75-95), which are only 140 lbs. in total tension. Or if you really want to go super light, you can always try the D'Addario XL Nickels EXL220BT (Balanced Tension, 40-55-70-95), which are 129.88 lbs.

try the super lite strings

 

[michael_t]

try the super lite strings

The OP has already found a feather-weight set at 109.88 lbs.

 

[PDW30]

If this situation is any indication, you're a work-arounder, not a fixer. A fixer would fix the actual problem: the truss rod.

That's fair, although I prefer the term 'pragmatist'. I used to repair fountain pens. You get used to having to work round the complete unavailability of spares other than from donor pens. I got it working - I'm happy. Maybe the next owner will get out the acetone/transmission fluid or replace the truss rod or the neck. It'll still be waiting, and AFAIK I haven't done any damage.

You are polishing a turd.

This afternoon I played the Ibby, frozen truss rod and all, tuned to pitch with Swing Bass strings, and it sounded pretty good for a turd through my Rumble 100v3. No, it's not a permanent fix, but I've made something that was marginally usable into something I can use comfortably. That's enough for me.

 

[GTHintz]

That's fair, although I prefer the term 'pragmatist'. I used to repair fountain pens. You get used to having to work round the complete unavailability of spares other than from donor pens. I got it working - I'm happy. Maybe the next owner will get out the acetone/transmission fluid or replace the truss rod or the neck. It'll still be waiting, and AFAIK I haven't done any damage.

This afternoon I played the Ibby, frozen truss rod and all, tuned to pitch with Swing Bass strings, and it sounded pretty good for a turd through my Rumble 100v3. No, it's not a permanent fix, but I've made something that was marginally usable into something I can use comfortably. That's enough for me.

That's awesome! Keep playing with it and you'll make it work. I think there's still life left in it.

 

[Bloomfield]

Here's my advice - get the TR working. I would stand the bass perfectly upright, so the TR access is at the top. Drop several drops of GOOD penetrating oil (Aero Kroil, PB Blaster - NOT WD-40) down onto the nut so that it will fill the nut and run down to the rod itself. Let it stand. Repeat for a few days in a row so the penetrant gets to the threaded area that is stuck. Let it do it's thing. Then - using a PROPER tool, attempt to move the nut. If it doesn't move repeat above process. Keep the following things in mind:

- A good penetrant WILL affect the wood, so you don't want to flood the neck with solvent. Just enough to wick down to the trouble spot.

- Access straight on to the nut with a good tool is paramount to success. If you are crooked going in or have a marginal tool you will strip the nut out for sure. At this point, I would use a proper long reach hex socket with proper drive extension similar to this:

82547 3/8" Drive Long Length Hex Bit Metric Socket 4mm - Gearwrench

You will have much better control with a tool like this. The headstock under the truss cover may need to be relieved a little bit for the tool to fit straight on, but the slight mod will be barely noticeable with the cover re-installed.

- My SR500 and my SR1300 have double acting truss rods, so heat would not help as the heat will have to travel quite a distance to the affected area. I do not know if your bass is equipped similarly but know before you apply heat if you are considering it per the above advice. At the same time a double acting rod will require the solvent to travel quite a distance so patience is key when using it.

I am an auto tech by trade. I have loosened alot worse fasteners than stuck truss nuts using solvent based release techniques. The chemicals mentioned above work extremely well. Until someone boogers the hex part of the nut, I consider it repairable using the above method. Your luthier may have 'given up' because understandably there is little reward (compensation) for him to play with this frozen truss for hours on a $300 bass while absorbing the risk of further damaging it and the liability associated with the collateral damage. His decision is right from a professional standpoint but is not necessarily the final word for repairing the neck. For less than the cost of 1 pack of strings you can fix the neck yourself.

This is good advice. Another thing that might help: if the truss rod nut is an allen key type, you could drill a small (say 2.5mm or so) hole in the end of the hex socket. You should feel it break through and stop there. If it hits the end of the rod itself it won't do any real harm as it is much smaller than the diameter of the threads. This will let you put penetrating oil in the hex where it will seep into the right place. Some truss rod nuts already have a hole like that, but I'm not sure about that one. Also, if you can clean up part of the nut with a dremel or some emery cloth, you can tin a little solder on it and that will conduct the heat into the nut and help to free it. Once you get the nut off you can clamp the neck straight and put on a new nut and washer.

 

[-Asdfgh-]

It's about not throwing away stuff that's still usable. If lighter strings will make a bass usable, why not do it?

A bass without a truss rod and too high action isn't usable. There might be bits on the bass that are (tuners, strings, etc.).

 

[-Asdfgh-]

Sounds like you are throwing good money after bad.

Yes. I suggested TI Jazz rounds, which might be worth more than the bass!

 

[-Asdfgh-]

Assuming what you have on is a 45-65-85-105 set, the Rotosound FM66 (Funkmaster 66, Mark King's sort-of signature set), which are 30-50-70-90, would give you the equivalent of tuning the old set to C#.
There's even a lighter set, the RS66LA (Swing Bass 66 Extra Light); well, the treble half is the same, but it has a 065 and a 085 for A and E respectively.

SRV's guitar strings were almost that heavy!

 

[HaphAsSard]

SRV's guitar strings were almost that heavy!

After all, what's 11 semitones between (us bassists) and friends (like Stevie Ray)?

 

[HaphAsSard]

Fyi... The RS66LA set is only 103.99 lbs. in total tension, quite a bit lighter than most "light" and even "extra light" sets.

But that's about the tension of a normal set (say 40-100) when tuned to C#, which was the reference given by the OP (the tuning at which the normal-gauge set it wore kept the neck at a decent curvature).
Hence my not recommending even TI Jazz Rounds: still too...heavy, in this specific case.

 

[PDW30]

But that's about the tension of a normal set (say 40-100) when tuned to C#, which was the reference given by the OP (the tuning at which the normal-gauge set it wore kept the neck at a decent curvature).
Hence my not recommending even TI Jazz Rounds: still too...heavy, in this specific case.

I put the RS66LAs on before I saw this, but it validates my observation that the action was fine with these lighter strings. Nice to have some numbers to support my qualitative result - thanks.

 

[RKS_Symbass]

Found this old thread and just wanted to say thanks to everyone for the great string suggestions.

Someone gave me a free acoustic bass with some neck bow and a lifting bridge.
Once I do a little work to get it back into shape I'm going to throw some low tension strings on it so it doesn't blow apart.

Then I'm going to donate it to the community music school to hopefully inspire the next generation of bass players.