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Stuck screws

#2
Assuming the philips heads are stripped.....correct?

Then you may take a Dremel with an abrasive cutting wheel, cut a slot across the head of each screw, then use a slotted screwdriver CAREFULLY to remove them. Cut as deep as you can because you don't want the screwdriver to slip. Use a screwdriver with a tip that fits the slot really, really well...you want maximum contact.

If all your screwdrivers have worn tips, go out and buy a new one that fits. It's cheap compared to the work involved in touching up the neck. Chances are that worn screwdriver tips caused this problem, too.
 
#4
try holding the tip of a hot soldering iron to them for half a minute, then unscrewing.

this shouldn't happen unless they were screwed into wet epoxy or superglue or something.
 
#7
If the heads are not stripped, and these are similar to Fender neck screws,
then a #2 phillips should remove them without slipping.

Place the bass face down on a padded surface, with the strings removed,
so you can apply enough downward force with the screwdriver to keep the
tip from wedging up out of the head. Turn the screws firmly but control the
turning force so if and when it does move, it only moves a small fraction of
a turn. That way there is no risk of twisting off the screw (breaking it).

I mention all that just in case you are unfamiliar with the torques required
to loosen neck screws. They can be pretty tight. But they also should break
loose.

.
 
#10
If you think the slots may strip (or for some extra insurance) use #2 philips bits that have those little ridges in the tip-
they allow you to get more torque without slipping.
Black and Decker and a few other companies make them.
But I'd try a little heat first as others have mentioned so the heads don't snap off.
Tapping the screw driver shank with a hammer prob won't help in wood, only in metal.
 
#14
you need a screw driver with a big handle, finger tips are not enough. you have to be able to hold it in the palm of your hand to get some muscle behind it.push down hard & hold your elbow at a 90 degree angle to the screw head. the fact that one has already come out is an indication that its not glue or epoxy holding them. use an impact driver as a last resort but tap lightly on the impact. good luck.
 
#15
LightForce104 said:
Actually, I got one of the screws out with no problem. The other 3 are stuck. Also, I don't have a soldering iron.
Click to expand...

Oh, fer cryin' out loud. Go buy one. It makes no sense to not buy a cheap soldering iron and wreck an expensive neck.

And if the screws are that stuck, DO NOT try the "cutting the slot" trick - you'll strip it out for sure. Philips screws give you more contact area than any slot.

Also - you want a Philips screwdriver in like-new condition, and make SURE that the tip completely fills the recess in the screw. Too many screws are damaged by screwdrivers that are too small. They come in tip sizes for a reason. And I agree with the note above - get a screwdriver you can LEAN on with the palm of one hand - force the tip into the screw firmly - and turn it with your other hand.
 
#16
speaking of screwdrivers. If you bass is an asian import and your driver seems to cam out too easy it's possible you have JIS hardware instead of phillips.

Here's a place that has the JIS drivers if you need them. Just about everything in the rc hobby these days comes from China or asia and you see quite a few things with JIS heads instead of phillips.

[This invalid link has been removed]
 
#17
You need to get you some Kroil. It's a mail order spray somewhat like WD40, but much more effective. It's a "creeping oil" that I learned about it when I was going to change the spark plugs on an old car I had. First one broke off in the block! I then used the Kroil and they all, including the broken off one, came right out. I use it on lots of things including frozen truss rods. :cool:
 
#19
dmusic148 said:
Great stuff but I'm not sure you'd want to soak the neck with that.
Click to expand...

I would definitely NOT use penetrating oil of any kind, including Kroil, which I really like to use on cars. It will get under paint and soak into wood. Neither of those is a desirable result.

I don't use penetrating oil on screws in wood. If it makes the wood swell (a definite possibility) the screws will be stuck even worse. And you don't need oil stains under a clear poly finish - or a peeling finish, for that matter.

Heat and a screwdriver with a good tip, powerfully applied with good technique, will do it. I'd put a folded-over towel down on a solid table for padding under the instrument, lay the bass on the towel, choose the appropriate screwdriver, lean over and apply a good deal of vertical down-force on the screwdriver, then go after it.

And when re-inserting the screws (probably new ones, since you may bigger the heads slightly) I'd put paraffin or candle wax on the threads to prevent them from sticking.
 

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