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SVT410HLF crackle

W

willymotts

Aug 30, 2010
80
34
Upstate NY
#1
I was having problems with the horn in this Ampeg bass cabinet. I replaced the L pad, capacitors and the horn itself. If I turned the L pad anything over "0", I got lots of noise from the horn. As I didn't have anything else to do, I removed the horn. Anything I may have missed? Thanks for your time.
 
#5
Bypass the crossover completely.

The Tweet probably has a damaged diaphragm. Not completely blown but damaged enough to krackle.

New tweet would help if you want one.
If not. Any frequency above the crossover point is getting sent to a 0 ohm load instead of a 8 or 4 ohm load it Should usually see if it was connected to the tweeter.

If you physically removed the tweet you now have a air leak. Not recommended at all.
 
#6
BogeyBass said:
Bypass the crossover completely.

The Tweet probably has a damaged diaphragm. Not completely blown but damaged enough to krackle.

New tweet would help if you want one.
If not. Any frequency above the crossover point is getting sent to a 0 ohm load instead of a 8 or 4 ohm load it Should usually see if it was connected to the tweeter.

If you physically removed the tweet you now have a air leak. Not recommended at all.
Click to expand...
OK. So I should make a "cap" for the tweeter hole and rewire the cabinet to bypass the crossover completely. I don't really get why the hole is an issue as the cabinet has a couple ports in the bottom but I will cover it and be done with the whole tweeter issue, once and for all. Thank you to everyone. I appreciate the advice.
 
#7
willymotts said:
I don't really get why the hole is an issue as the cabinet has a couple ports in the bottom but I will cover it and be done with the whole tweeter issue, once and for all. Thank you to everyone. I appreciate the advice.
Click to expand...

That's EXACTLY why it's important to cover the hole. The ports (area and length) tune the box to work properly with the driver. An additional "hole" throws off the tuning a LOT.
 
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#9
You can just remount the blown tweet and be done pretty much. As far as bypassing the crossover and having a good realiable connections is probably gonna be the somewhat not so fun part
 
#12
Sparkl said:
These tweeters are literally sold for dirt. From my POV, I would replace the tweeter just to have a fully functional cab (you never know when you need it) and then just turn the tweeter off and be done with it.
Click to expand...
The thing that is confusing me is that I replaced everything that I think can go bad - please read the original post. I would love to have the option of using the tweeter but I can't sink any more money into this if it's not going to work right. I'm puzzled...
 
#13
willymotts said:
The thing that is confusing me is that I replaced everything that I think can go bad - please read the original post. I would love to have the option of using the tweeter but I can't sink any more money into this if it's not going to work right. I'm puzzled...
Click to expand...

Oh, I am sorry, I must have not read your original post in sufficient detail.

I am not a qualified engineer but are you sure that it is the tweeter? Maybe it is something else in the crossover, maybe it is the resistor, maybe it's the tweeter pot?

What you need is probably provide more detail and wait for someone who actually has a clue about these things to pop back in. Namely, agedhorse and other maestros.
 
#15
Without proper troubleshooting, everything is just a guess. Guessing by the OP has proved unsuccessful so far.
 

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