I have a Sterling by MuMan RAY35 (34", 5-string,6-bolt neck) and about $200 and I'm looking for some fretless capability without sacrificing my fretted. I've talked with a couple of bassists and luthiers, and the recommendation I've been getting is buying a fretless neck and swapping between the two. What I need to find out is, how much am I going to spend, how difficult will the swap be, what tools will I need, and what should I look as far as the neck(measurements,materials,etc.)?
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Swapping fretted/fretless necks
- Thread starter MagnusNord
- Start date
I would think it would just be a case of unscrewing the old one and screwing on the new one. The only problem may be you will have to re set up your bridge (possibly) each time you switch neck. And also re string up each time if your bridge has the holey things the strings go through. Just make sure you buy a neck of a similar or same year. I havent done it my self, but thats all I imagine necessary.
I would guess also that if you keep switching, the screw holes may get loose, which wouldnt be good.
So you would just need a screwdriver (if its normal screws), and allen keys for the bridge.
I would guess also that if you keep switching, the screw holes may get loose, which wouldnt be good.
So you would just need a screwdriver (if its normal screws), and allen keys for the bridge.
Understand that you're probably not going to end up with a "convertible bass" where you can go between fretted and fretless from day to day on a whim. If your neck isn't graphite, the wood will need time to settle in under tension every time you swap it on to the body. No mystery that you need the right sized heel on the new neck, too.
Unless the two necks are an almost identical fit, you'll need to probably shim the fretless when it goes onto the body for a good fit. You might need to adjust your pickup height, and also noodle with your string saddles to get things nice and playable. If that neck mates with the body at the wrong angle, the strings will either ride too high or too low over the body.
I've tried this with a Modulus fretless neck that's made to generally fit a standard Fender heel pocket. The neck doesn't need to settle in, but I need to shim it for a good fit and also swap out the strings. That usually means that the saddles need tweaking. Bottom line is that it takes a while, so I only do this with an extra bass. My main Jazz is nothing special, but I can't throw it all out of whack every time I get the fretless itch.
Unless the two necks are an almost identical fit, you'll need to probably shim the fretless when it goes onto the body for a good fit. You might need to adjust your pickup height, and also noodle with your string saddles to get things nice and playable. If that neck mates with the body at the wrong angle, the strings will either ride too high or too low over the body.
I've tried this with a Modulus fretless neck that's made to generally fit a standard Fender heel pocket. The neck doesn't need to settle in, but I need to shim it for a good fit and also swap out the strings. That usually means that the saddles need tweaking. Bottom line is that it takes a while, so I only do this with an extra bass. My main Jazz is nothing special, but I can't throw it all out of whack every time I get the fretless itch.
If you intend to swap the necks more than a few times, I would strongly suggest that you inset threaded inserts into the necks and use machine screws to attach them rather than attaching them with the conventional wood screws as they are now.
You can only screw into that wood so many times before you will no longer be able to get a nice, tight coupling.
I know some folks have had some success in doing a single body and two necks, but all in all, I think it is a weak idea if you actually plan on swapping with any frequency. To me, it represents a lot of extra wear and tear on the components of the bass. It seems like you would inevitably end up beating up the bass with all of the switches.
Personally, I worry every time I work on a bass that I am going to chip it, or ding it or scratch it with a tool. I couldn't deal with that high of the level of work with any kind of frequency. It would make me nuts.
You can only screw into that wood so many times before you will no longer be able to get a nice, tight coupling.
I know some folks have had some success in doing a single body and two necks, but all in all, I think it is a weak idea if you actually plan on swapping with any frequency. To me, it represents a lot of extra wear and tear on the components of the bass. It seems like you would inevitably end up beating up the bass with all of the switches.
Personally, I worry every time I work on a bass that I am going to chip it, or ding it or scratch it with a tool. I couldn't deal with that high of the level of work with any kind of frequency. It would make me nuts.
How much will a new neck cost? I'll bet you could pick a new squire fretless or used mim fender fretless for close to what a new neck costs, but I don't know if that's the sound you're going for. I love my MIM fretless.
I know this isn't the answer that you were looking but it just seems to be a lot of assache to switch out necks very often.
had a recent roundabout fretted to fretless situation. I wanted a fretless, bought one, damaged in shipping, returned to seller, UPS paid the claim, seller re-sold me the neck, which I put on another MIM jazz I had bought in the meantime. To buy the fretless neck, I sold the fretted neck on the MIM that 2nd I bought. Bought the MIM, which was stock, for $400 shipped. Sold the neck for $150 shipped, bought the fretless neck for the exact same, plus I added $20 to buy his Gotoh bridge that was also being parted out. It cost me $15 to ship the neck I sold. I was able to get a box from Guitar Center for free, and I shipped the neck in a gigbag folded over for protection. I wasn't using the gigbag anyway. And UPS filled in the gaps in the box with peanuts for added protection at no charge.
So it took some legwork, but ended up costing less than half of what a comparable MIA model would have.
I had to shim the neck pocket to get the action I wanted when I put the fretless neck on the MIM, but it seems to be working just fine. Its my 2nd Jazz and I can use it for gigs if I want, or just to practice. Figure if I like it a lot I might get a nicer fretless down the road. But right now the MIM is really exactly what I needed, and much nicer than I thought.
So it took some legwork, but ended up costing less than half of what a comparable MIA model would have.
I had to shim the neck pocket to get the action I wanted when I put the fretless neck on the MIM, but it seems to be working just fine. Its my 2nd Jazz and I can use it for gigs if I want, or just to practice. Figure if I like it a lot I might get a nicer fretless down the road. But right now the MIM is really exactly what I needed, and much nicer than I thought.
