swapping strings and break angle

[morebass!]

I see lots of posts from people who move a set of strings from one bass to another, multiple times in some cases. This seems to be pretty common among flatwound users. I also see posts where people emphasize the importance of getting a good break angle of the string over the bridge.

This seems like an either/or situation to me because all (or most) basses have a different distance from the string end to the bridge saddle. Or am I missing something? Can you re-do the break angle? It seems to me that once you put a bend in the string, it's not going away.

Thoughts?

 

[michael_t]

This seems like an either/or situation to me because all (or most) basses have a different distance from the string end to the bridge saddle. Or am I missing something? Can you re-do the break angle? It seems to me that once you put a bend in the string, it's not going away.

I'm with you on this.

I've managed to move a few sets of flats between my P bass and J bass in the past, but stopped doing it for this very reason. Once a set of strings are set up on a particular bass, that's where they stay.

Something I still might consider doing, though, is to uninstall a set of strings temporarily to try another set, and re-install the same ones back on the SAME BASS.

 

[morebass!]

...Something I still might consider doing, though, is to uninstall a set of strings temporarily to try another set, and re-install the same ones back on the SAME BASS.

That makes sense. I'm interested to see if there are others out there who agree or disagree.

 

[AEVAREX]

I'm with that train of thought. Never understood how one can move strings around like that and not have intonation issues.
As well when I get to the intonation part of setting up my basses I set the saddles back a bit so my adjustment is always moving from slightly flat intonation to in. This way any previous break angle introduced into the string ends up behind the saddle where it shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[fig]

Something I still might consider doing, though, is to uninstall a set of strings temporarily to try another set, and re-install the same ones back on the SAME BASS.

That makes sense. I'm interested to see if there are others out there who agree or disagree.

I've been doing string swapping between the same 2 or 3 string sets on the same bass for about 13 or 14 years. Sold all my excess equipment back then...basses, heads, cabs, etc, and left myself with one bass.

Since then, I've been swapping between one set of flatwounds (high action) and one set of roundwounds (lower action), depending on the gig/project. Just take off one set, store it, put on the other. Swap 'em back when needed. Adjust truss rod as required. For me, different strings and setups work better for certain types/genres of music. Of course I've had to buy new strings sometimes as they start to sound poopy as strings do.

Anyway, I've never had a problem swapping strings on the same bass.

The break angle over the saddle, the witness point, was specifically mentioned. I've never noticed a problem if the witness point kink is forward of the saddle. Happens to me sometimes when swapping, but never heard anything wrong. Even straightened out some kinks with my fingers, just 'cause.

So, yes, try to keep the witness point kinks off the speaking part of the string. But if it ends up there, it isn't a show stopper.

Mileage may vary, of course.

Side note for anyone passing thru...for new strings, @AEVAREX mentioned when you start to intonate, FIRST retract the saddles. I do 2 or 3 full turns. The intonation will now be flat. The saddle will have to be moved forward to get proper intonation and this keeps all previous witness point kinks behind the saddle.

 

[michael_t]

As well when I get to the intonation part of setting up my basses I set the saddles back a bit so my adjustment is always moving from slightly flat intonation to in. This way any previous break angle introduced into the string ends up behind the saddle where it shouldn't cause any problems.

Side note for anyone passing thru...for new strings, @AEVAREX mentioned when you start to intonate, FIRST retract the saddles. I do 2 or 3 full turns. The intonation will now be flat. The saddle will have to be moved forward to get proper intonation and this keeps all previous witness point kinks behind the saddle.