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SWR Redhead Replacement Speakers

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Xombi

Aug 14, 2008
1
0
#1
Hi,

Can anyone out there give me advice of replacement speakers?
I have an original SWR Redhead, 240 model, and I want to try upgrading from the PAS speakers. Problem is don't really know what I am looking for. i don't really grasp the impedance thing and don't want to wind up mismatching stuff. I've heard that Eminence Basslite's are good, but am not sure which one's are the right match. The biggest pain is i never know which Redhead people are talking about in any posts. So any Redhead 240 owners out there have any speaker advice!?!?


thanks

-j
 
#3
I'm looking to replace my SWR Goliath speakers soon.

Spoke to the guy from USSpeaker -- he likes the BP 102's and they're under $80.

SWR referred me to The Music Guru . com and they sell PAS speakers for like $139 - ouch!

Keep us posted on what you end up with and how it works.
 
#4
I blew out one of my PAS speakers in an old Goliath II 2x10. Emailed PAS about ordering from them. Very poor customer service, no decent reply to my email. Wound up throwing a Schroeder 10 that I traded for into the cab, but its rarely used these days. Either recone the speaker or replace it with something else that works in the cab. Don't deal direct with PAS, its a worthless effort.
 
#5
I just replaced those POS (that's not a typo) originals in my super redhead w/ the Eminence BP 102's (after e-mailing tech support @ eminence who were very helpful).....bandmates couldn't stop raving about the difference........PartsExpress.com has them for $60 ea (free UPS ground w/in the USA).....I'm still lookin' for something louder but this has given my redhead a new lease on life
 
#6
I've been looking to replace the speakers in my Super Redhead with BP102s. I spoke with my local Eminence Dealer and he said that since the outer edge of my speakers have squared off edges (so rather then being round its more stop sign shaped). He said the only thing that will fit are SWR replacement speakers. Anyone else have any experience with this?
 
#10
Duuuuuuuuuude said:
What do you mean by sensitivity? Do you mean more responsive to the dynamics of your playing? Also, why do you think the Deltas are louder? is it because they are 350W?
Click to expand...
The Delta is louder in the midrange but in the bass it has less sensitivity than the BP102. The Delta 350w rating is moot as they'll fart out at 60 watts, the BP102 will take twice as much power. I rate the Delta 10 marginal as a bass driver.
 
#11
Jeez, thanks everybody for the input. There seems to be a lot of conflicting info here. No offense to anyone... it's just making it hard to decide which replacement speakers to buy.

I'm going to try to summarize to see if I have this correct (if I'm not, please correct me):

The Deltas are more efficient in turning power into sound (sensitivity rated at 98.8dB) than the BP102 (sensitivity rated at 92dB). I read online that "3 dB increase in speaker sensitivity produces the same audible increase in volume as doubling your amplifier power." So at +6.8 dB sensitivity the Deltas should be MUCH louder. But is it correct to say round 3 1/3 times as loud?

If I understand correctly, Bill said that the Deltas are more efficient (meaning louder) in the midrange but much LESS efficient in the low end. As a result, they'll fart-out in an amp that has more than 60Watts. With a 350Watt rating can this really be true? Does this mean they'll be all honky midrange and no low end? Or when you say "fart" do you mean they'll distort? Anyone with Deltas ever had this problem? Anyone with BP102s ever feel like they have a third of the power?

Maybe I'm over analyzing it

BP 102:
http://www.usspeaker.com/legend bp102 graph.gif

Delta 10A:
http://www.usspeaker.com/delta 10 graph.gif
 
#12
So I spoke with Al at US Speakers and he gave me an answer to my questions. The Deltas are indeed more efficient and therefor louder. However there 102's are designed for a deeper sub bass range. They're designed to physically extend outward further thus emitting more low end. The trade-off is that they're not as efficient. So if, like me, you're trying to decide which to buy -- you have to ask yourself what's more important to you: Volume or low-end?
 
#13
wow! I'm glad I found this thread. I have a Goliath II with bad speakers. I want to change them all and make the cab a 4-ohm (It is currently 8-ohm). I've been debating on either the Delta 10B (16-ohm) or BP 102-4 (4-ohm). And the debate I have with myself is...are the Deltas going to suck with my 5-string basses? (no low end at all considering their resonant frequency is 66Hz)
Is the Legend going to suck in volume? (the 4-ohm version for some reason has a 90.5 db rating, but the Xmax is 6.2mm and resonant frequency is 35 Hz...much like my 15")
I'm running an SVT 2 Pro...lots of power there...not sure where to take this debate...
 
#14
Hey Man, I'd suggest calling a few places like US Speaker and asking their advise. Call more then one. They're happy to answer your question and know the best speakers for most brands/models. If anything, you might get too much info.

Here's a little info I found on their site:

  • Solid state amplifiers power ratings change as the impedance changes. The lower the impedance(ohms) a solid state amplifier sees the more power it will put out. Some solid state amps are rated as low as 2 ohms but for the most part it is usually much safer to run at 4 ohms then 2 ohms. Always check to see your amplifier's owners manual to find the best impedance for your amp.
  • Tube amplifiers power ratings do not change as the impedance changes. Tube amps will put out the same power whether the impedance is 4, 8,or 16. So there is no power handling advantage to wiring speakers in series, parallel or series/parallel when using a tube amplifier. Always check your amplifier's owners manual before wiring.
 
#15
I want to change the cab's resistance to 4 ohms because the SVT 2-pro is rated to be most efficient at 4 or 2 ohms. Not at 8. with a 4 ohm 4x10, I can use it in conjunction with either of my other two 4-ohm cabs (2x10 or 1x15) at a 2-ohm total; or by itself at 4 ohms. That's why, no other reason.
 

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