Table saw for trussrod slots?

[reverendrally]

I know this seems a little wacky, but I was watching a youtube vid the other day of a guy making some gnarly slots with his table saw. I was wondering, has anyone used their table saw to make a trussrod slot successfully?

 

[mapleglo]

I would imagine that using a table saw would leave rather long areas at the start and finish of the slot that would be too shallow for the truss rod. Doesn't seem like a good idea, somehow.

 

[Jisch]

if you install the truss nut on the top, then the channel will exit the wood (i.e. no ramp on that side from the blade), on the other end you can leave a ramp and it wouldn't hurt anything since it would be under the fretboard and there's probably enough room for that ramp before you hit the end of the neck. I mean I think a router table is a lot easier, but I could see it working in a pinch.

 

[CentralCoastBass]

I've used a tablesaw for a trussrod slot a few times. Of course this will only work with certain types of rods, but it gets the job done.

 

[reverendrally]

Routers are good, but they take a fair about of setup and don't cut half as effectively as a table saw. The saw is able to remove a LOT more timber in a short pass. Routers need multiple passes and only use small bits for trussrods.

But yes, as you say, only certain kinds of rods allow for it.

 

[Jisch]

I think I can set up the router table and do 3 passes on a neck blank in less time than it would take me to do the same on the table saw if you consider set up time. To use a table saw you'd have to either use a dado blade (blade change over time) or do multiple passes. I use a 1/4" router bit and I don't have to adjust the fence on the router table for multiple passes, so those second and third passes are really quick to set up.

I don't mean to be argumentative, just thinking about the process for each (convincing myself it's not a better way) :-D

 

[MrArose13]

I've also done this a few times also.

It only works, or works well, with bolt on necks with an angled head stock (IMO) . You just have to be willing to put a grove all the way through the center of the neck, having access to the truss rod at one end, (head stock/heal) and plug the other end. I used a standard 2-way truss rod in mine with access at the head stock. As far as I know this would not work for a classic fender style neck. As mapleglo pointed out, making a stopped groove, (such as a truss rod channel for a neck through) doesn't really work due to the quarter moon shaped trench left at the end, (it's much harder to plug).

As far as set up time... I like using the router table, (I also do a lot of neck throughs) but IMO, it takes the same amount of time and effort.

And for your viewing pleasure to formulate your own opinions... I give you this

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Seems like it'd be more trouble than it's worth, and unless you buy and install a 1/4" DADO stack, or run several passes to get the the channel to the right width, it's not really saving any money or time.

I use a 1/4" spiral carbide bit I got for $21 at Woodcraft in my router table for cutting truss rod channels, and I do it in two passes. It takes about 5 minutes.

Plus I hate table saws, so I don't have one.

 

[MPU]

Works great with headless bolt on or set necks. A lot faster and easiet than router.

 

[Jisch]

Works great with headless bolt on or set necks. A lot faster and easiet than router.

I dunno about that, I can set up the router table in five minutes, have all three cuts done in 5 minutes more? If you count the time to put a dado blade on, I think it would take longer?

 

[Will_White]

So what's the workflow like on the table saw, put in dado blade set, set fence cut slot plug one end? Or multiple passes on a standard blade.

 

[hushnel]

Depends on how good your fence is, I have the incra fence and miter on one of my table saws, the other two are set up with a cross cut and dado blades, these two saws are old iron topped 10" Craftsman, they have nice solid fences but I do spend extra time making sure they are parallel to the blade. The router table fence is not as accurate as the table saws.

 

[MPU]

I do multiple passes with table saw. I only have one router which is usually on a table when I need to use it hand held or not on a table when I need to use it with table. That's why I prefer table saw when making tr slots on headless necks.

 

[mapleglo]

Looking at my table saw just now, I'd have to do a lot of work to set it up for doing a truss rod channel. I'd have to remove *all* the safety equipment to do it - the blade guard, anti kickback fingers, and riving knife. And to do that, there's a plate underneath the saw that has to be removed and then reinstalled for the dust collection to work. That by itself takes 20 minutes. And then I'd have to put it all back together - another 20 minutes. Setting up the router takes like 10 minutes. I made this truss rod cutting guide out of a couple of pieces of angle iron which makes for quick work.

And then how do you cut the slightly wider area at the top for the adjuster part?

For the types of necks I make, it doesn't make sense to use the table saw.