taperwound string and string breaks

[darkstorm]

Had a DR neon string break its core months ago at the nut. Other then that, I havent broken a string since I was a kid playing hard fingerstyle. The strings if they broke allways broke the core and the string winding part while it got stretched, prevented the string from lashing out as it broke. cause the windings didnt break.

So the question is. What happens to the string on a taperwound if it breaks the core over the bridge where it has no windings to stop the string from flying fast and hard toward headstock. Personally Id hate to have my hand anywhere near the neck if a taperwound string broke its core at the bridge.

Is this a silly fear about tapercore strings? Even though I havent broke a string in decades except for the one Dr that broke at nut. Ive never felt good about tapercore strings since I occassionally broke strings as a kid.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Well, I have never had a string break on the bridge... The ones I have had break have been above my neck pickup...

However, I see what you are talking about.

Keep in mind, there are 3 types of strings that you are referring to.

#1 - Exposed Core Strings: An example of Exposed Core Strings are LaBella Super Steps / Fodera Anthony Jackson Sigs / SIT Power Core. These have no winding at all over the core where the core passes over the bridge.

#2 - Exposed Core with Very Thin Wrap Wire around the core wire: An example of these would be GHS Contact Cores / MTD Exposed Core B's. These are still considered "Exposed Core" but they do have a very thin wire around them that would prevent them from slinging out if they broke where the core is "exposed."

#3 - Taper Core Strings. These have a taper over the bridge section that is wrapped with less windings over this taper section. Not as thin as an exposed core, but not as thick as a full wound string. These I do not see having that issue you are afraid of at all.

Now, with all of that said, I do not know how either of them will really react if the core broke over the bridge section, but I would guess that #3 Taper Core would be less dramatic, while #1 would be the most. I do know that you do not want a .020 Plain Steel string snapping on you while you are playing it. I am glad to not have experienced that but maybe I should give it a shot with one

I mainly have used Taper Core strings (#3), although I have been wanting to try Exposed Cores (#1) on some of my basses.

I do know some people who use style #1 on some crazy custom through body have to route the exposed section through basically a guitar bridge w/ extreme bends and has never had one broken... soooo, I wouldnt really worry about it... (unless you leave the strings on getting totally rusted, then I wouldnt play it)

 

[darkstorm]

Thanks SLaPiNFunK. Yeah #1 was the type I was thinking of.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

I'd be afraid of it too...

Next set I put on Ill bust out the video camera and take a pair of wire cutters to them at the saddle and see what happens

(I'm kinda scared already though...)

 

[Concr3t3]

Hey Guys,
I've been a La Bella Super Steps user for years, since 95/96. I play Metal using a pick which means heavy attack and I have never had a string break bridge-side. If they do break (which I find to be really rare with these strings), it's always been on top of the nut.

Hope that helps!

 

[cassius987]

My guess is if this were to happen the string would just "flop" out of place and get in the way of the others, not go flying towards the nut.

 

[JustForSport]

Once had a .130 ss flat-wound break at the ball just as it was coming up to tune. It just jumped a little, then laid there.
Not like a rubber band that is stretched length, it stays the same length.
Just the tension is let off.

 

[FunkMetalBass]

^ This. If you wrap your string as tight as you can by hand, I'd venture a guess that tuning it up to pitch would only stretch the string by AT MOST a half inch, and I feel that's generous.