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The negatives about a dingwall

The D Roc should be able to do deep and bass-y particularly in the "all three" setting. However you can also likely get that from the NG3. The NG3 will give you the benefit of the preamp boosting/shaping and selecting active or passive.
 
I just got a brand new blue/purple colorshift D-Roc 5 and I'm planning on selling it here on TB. It is meticulously crafted and is easily the nicest looking bass I've ever had in my possession, but I've come to the conclusion after buying 3 separate 37-34" multiscale basses that my hands are just too small to play the lower register comfortably. For me, the only con is just my anatomy :(
 
One issue I have encountered with FF basses (not only Dingwall) is an uneven sound across the strings. Especially when playing fingerstyle, the fan will result in your picking of the higher strings closer to the bridge. This causes (imo) an annoying "pokey" sound that doesn't match that of the B, E and A strings. It may be overcome a little with technique and so on, but it is quite noticeable
 
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One issue I have encountered with FF basses (not only Dingeall) is an uneven sound across the strings. Especially when playing fingerstyle, the fan will result in your picking of the higher strings closer to the bridge. This causes (imo) an annoying "pokey" sound that doesn't match that of the B, E and A strings. It may be overcome a little with technique and so on, but it is quite noticeable

This. I forgot to mention it earlier but the fan of the bridge makes it important to be mindful of your picking hand orientation relative to the bridge. If you use a flat pick and anchor your palm to the bridge around the lowest string then as you pivot to reach the higher strings you will move your picking position closer to the bridge on any design, and the bridge fan will exaggerate the effect. If you can comfortably float your picking hand then it’s less of an issue.
 
1) I absolutely abhor Cosmo black (smoked chrome) hardware and all of their import models come with it, tuners/bridge/knobs etc. if they just went chrome or black it would fix the problem but the Cosmo black tarnishes worse than anything and looks crappy and cheap the fastest of any finish (including gold) - and most importantly they don’t make detuners in it so to put on a Detuner you have to replace all the tuners. If I’m paying for a $2000 bass, I’d like nicer hardware. I always had to change it out which is an additional cost. Now, this is based 100% on my taste and looks, there was never a functional issue. They use import Hipshot stuff.

My black 5 String D-Roc came with black Hardware (I bought it second hand, but the new minimalist bridge is also black, so I guess that's what came stock). And the previous owner even mounted a detuner on the B string (with the matching color)
 
Interesting read. I was a Dingwall sceptic for many years and have now owned 2. Recently sold off all my other expensive basses as I play my AB1 6 exclusively now. Some of the important factors i feel are important with Dingwalls are:

1. Strap position is really important for me. If mine is even an inch lower or higher I can tell and it annoys me. I use the button on the back of the bass aswell and removed the traditional strap position because it was in the way when I was sitting. Really playing with this and getting it set right really helped me get along best with the instrument

2. Strings along with setup. Getting the right strings and setup linked to the tuning that I am using was another hugely important part of getting along best with my Dingwall. I have other lovely basses that this doesnt seem to be as huge of a factor but if my action isn't right with my Dingwall it just doesnt feel right. I play very heavily with a pick most of the time and so action cannot be too low. Stainless steel give slightly lower tension with I prefer. I use Payson Drop A set and tune to drop G.

Before I got these things really well tuned for me my Dingwalls were never my main basses. I enjoyed it especially the tone and flexibility but I felt like I was fighting it. I do struggle with the reach on the B string above the 12th fret but that is a 6 string issue alongside my body issue and have had to adjust my playing in that area.

Big Negatives:

Cost and Availability of Canadian basses. They are so expensive and custom shop wait is a big one. I am very blessed to own a Canadian Dingwall and know the magic of them. I hope to get a custom 5 string soon but the wait and cost shipped to Oz is serious and unobtainable for most. The second hand market is very small and they sell generally very quickly.

My advice to anyone wanting to try one. Take your own strap and spend some time getting it right. These are not a few strums on a music stool type of bass and of course they wont suit all but man I will never go back now.
 
I have owned 4 of them. 2 fivers, and 2 fourers. Combustions and NG3s. While some negatives has been aired here, it's mostly in the taste kind of thing. Personal. Me as a not special tall person or with big hands, finds all of them a little too clunky and cumbersome to me, even if they do not neck dive. While not "negatives" as such I've found some, more likely, caveat emptors, as most of them has dawned on me slowly and not immediately detected. I list them in no particular order:

1. Price, which are debatable, since now the lower priced ones comes from Asia/China.

2. The strings. It's still VERY few manufacturers who produces extra long string sets, while it seems to be ONLY the low B that's needed extra long, not the rest. Maybe hence they release the new SP1 series from China with just a 35" inch on the lowest string. Perhaps.

3. What I find difficult to master, is the very thin mandolin like frets (they actually use one size above actual mandolin frets). Especially when RELEASING a note from any fret, and that's even on the high G-string which has regular scale at 34". No matter the action, there's always a slight fret buzz heard when releasing the note. Lifting the finger from a fret. I've even seen a YT video by someone who made a review of one NG bass that addressed this, and it's like this: I don't experience the same buzz on other basses which are pararell frets and thicker, taller frets. As it is, I have yet to find that YT video again, as I can't remember who it was that recorded it. But I was not alone on this one, for sure.

4. Output jack can't take angled plugs. To me angled plugs are a safety thing, they don't risk of "un-jacking" accidentally as much. And the thing is with angled plugs is that you can let the bass reside on whatever, the plug resides on it's shell, and not the cable which bends it too much so it can cause havoc inside.

5. My use of the 4 strings, that it was tuned to BEAD and I used a capo on 5th fret to get it in tune to regular EADG tuning. And it sounded good up there on the low B string. The thick low B still sounds great at 36" scale length, above 12th fret as well as open string. So if I had to play in Eb just drop the capo one notch and one's good to go. Not a negative though, but I found the use of a 5 string quite superfluous then.

6. The active thing with 2 batteries rubs me the wrong way. And subsequent EQ possibilites on the bass. Since Sheldon himself flaunts that fanned frets thing, evens out tension and you don't have to turn to outboard effects such as compressors and eq's to tame the sound, timbre, it seems to be counterproductive. I didn't use the EQ onboard at all because it wasn't needed. Kind of superfluous too. Which is like someone already told us in earlier posts, that it is all kind of sterile, neutral, and not characteristic enough. Which meant that I tried to remove the batteries and just use the switch in passive mode, which isn't possible, it needs to have batteries. On other basses with this system (switchable passive/active) this is possible. So one can't turn the switch to passive when playing live if the batteries starts to go south. What's the point of having that switch then? But on the other hand Dingwall does the all passive thing too. But not on all models.

7. The need for 3 pickups stacked close together in line with each other beats me. I liked those 2 pickuped ones with more space between them, i e the middle pickup removed. There's very little difference between them. It seems like Sheldon used them as an excuse or substitute for a "ramp" instead, to rest your fingers on while shredding. There's simply not enough space to thumb, slap in the position where one slaps the most. I screwed down my middle pickup as far as it went into the body. Bored me silly. Beats me.

But points 3 and 6 bothered me the most. Of course, someone else couldn't care less about this, but so it was with this thread. Negatives. Not negatives as such but more marginal notes of idiosyncrasies. Mind you that ALL of the basses I own, and owned, has(have) had their idiosyncrasies and caveats too. No matter how posh high end, or cheap builds or anything in between. The trick is to learn, and play, and master all these kinds of idiosyncrasies with any instrument and learn to buck them while playing, say dead spots on another instrument. And "camouflage" the errors. Like angling the fingering according to the bridge and so on. That's part of the playing actually.

But other than that Dingwall's good. Methinks. ;-) I spent money on 4 of them. 2 of them brand new. 2 of them second hand. Don't regret it at all.
 
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Well then once I figure out if I want a super j or a ng3 again I’ll be set. There’s a gc near me that has a lot of different dr sets. Thank you for the info!!
Mind you that super j's or p's has a shorter fanned frets scale overall. The high g-string is 32" scale on the low B (if a fiver) is at 35", low E at 34.25" which means most string sets will fit without problems. NG3s has full fanned frets scale with low B at 37" scale length. If a fiver. On these, you must shop around until you find a set that fits.
 
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I have never had the opportunity to play a Dingwall. But recently bought a Harley Benton multi-scale 5 string, 32-35” scale length, single cut.

I’m not here to fanboi on it, saying it is as good as a Dingwall. I have no way to know. But I do like the multi-scale concept of it. Even thought the B is not 37”, the 35” B on the HB rings true and sounds good.

It also has an 18-volt 2-battery system with a passive-active push/pull switch. In passive you only have volume and pan controls, which I am use to as my Carvin Bunny Brunel 5-string also works this way. The 3 way EQ on the preamp is serviceable but not outstanding, much like how I find the Carvin preamp as well. I’ve had it about two months now. Don't know if I’ll change out the electronics yet to “upgrade” it 🤔

I was surprised at the quality of the build, also out of China but that has never been an issue to me, just more as a reference to the Chinese build Dingwalls. It came with roasted neck and SS frets with nice fretwork and finish. I thought a nice budget multi-scale for those that want to try one that don't have Dingwall money.

Again, if you have the Dingwall scratch, get one 👍 If you don't, this might be a good chance to dip your toe in the water with one of these. I paid about $350 for a B stock shipped from Germany. They are $415 with free shipping from the HB USA Reverb Shop. The only caution would be the single cut. That thing is divisive 😂

It's one of these joints…

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I eyed one but it was still too rich for my blood. The HB was seen, liked, and suggested by my wife. It was an impulse purchase with my wife’s backing so I went with it! 😊
Totally understandable! My Brice was bought years before Harley Benton got on my radar screen (2016). And though most of my 11 HB basses are FSOs, I can also vouch that they are great value basses!
 
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Ok, instead of dwelling on alternatives, this thread was about "The Negatives About a Dingwall" wasn't it?
Not negatives or positives about Brice, Harley Benton, or anything else, just because it has fanned frets, and input from people who has never ever tried a Dingwall.

Mind you since more and more manufacturers has jumped on the fanned frets bandwagon, whenever I read and sees a review on YT, or elsewhere of the alternatives, the last summing up of every review, or last "2 cents" always ends with "It's not a Dingwall, but..." So there's the yardstick for every fanned fret bass out there. Food for thought. Sheldon must be very proud of such statements... I would. Someone just has to turn out to be the yardstick, and this just happens to be Dingwall.

Keep in mind before you post anything here that there's a very big difference between "The Negatives About a Dingwall" and "The Negatives About any Fanned Frets bass"
 
One issue I have encountered with FF basses (not only Dingwall) is an uneven sound across the strings. Especially when playing fingerstyle, the fan will result in your picking of the higher strings closer to the bridge. This causes (imo) an annoying "pokey" sound that doesn't match that of the B, E and A strings. It may be overcome a little with technique and so on, but it is quite noticeable
Yes, this is another thing you have to master. I've seen some mitigating measures for this happening. At the latest NAMM 2025 winter show, Sheldon demonstrated a few new basses without even mentioning it. The "rounded" pickups are not as slanted as the frets anymore. One can see that they do not align up perfectly with the slant of the bridge, which they used to be. Only on some select models though. Just the custom shop made in Canada not the Asian one. I wondered about this, but I think it makes sense with that fingering problem. It takes up sound from different spots of the string then. The "aperture" spot so to speak. This may be some of the nit picky negative details that he has listened to and - you know - altered slightly. You know that in every spec of every electronic thing out there it says "Specifications are subject to change without further notice". I e they don't have to tell you about what has changed.

On the new SP1 series you can see that the bridge pickup are slanted accordingly to the bridge. I e the distance from the G-string from the pickup to bridge is the same as the distance from E-string part of pickup towards the brdige. It's the same. Now go over to the blue one. The distance from the high g-string towards the bridge is SHORTER than the distance from the low B (and low E) pickup edge to the bridge, which means the pickups aren't slanted as much anymore. Maybe that was the culprit?

EDIT: Seems like pictures don't display very well in here. As they do on other sites. Can't do anything about that. Sorry. Here's the YT link.



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Skärmavbild 2025-06-03 kl. 09.21.55.png
 
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