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The Rickenbacker Club Part Four

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2006 4003.

I never got a number form the previous threads
 
I'm working on re-sizing my pics, and by golly, I'll have my Ric's pic's in on this edition of the club- coming soon, '08 4004Cii trans green, and '06 4003 jetglo with pearloid pickguard, vintage knobs, and sweet vintage reissue Toaster pup at the neck. Hope you're as interested as I am excited to share 'em.
 
I've never liked the "all black" look compared to the stock look but if it floats your boat...

If you find the action is a little too high with the Hipshot bridge (it can't go as low as the stock) you can replace the front-end screws with some flat-headed ones of the same thread and length. This really is only an issue if you like low action though.

Can I get a number perhaps?

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2008 4003FL on the left, with 4002 and HB-1 humbuckers and a Hipshot bridge (I've since gone back to stock on this one).

1976 4001FL on the right, with dual Toaster single coils and a Hipshot bridge. The pickguard is custom obviously.
 
Ok so... I consider myself very experienced setting up electric basses from various brands. This thing is unnecessarily difficult to work on. Two truss rods is neat and all but it shouldn't be needed. Unless they are adjusted perfectly, they seem to torque the neck. Fun. And who designed this bridge? Hopefully I will never set this thing up again. Ever. :spit:
Rick's double truss rods do not set up like other basses. You have to learn how to treat them right. LOL

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Actually the truss rods can't apply a very sizable torque at all. That's a myth. >99% of what they do is force applied up-and-down only, and a luthier confirmed this for me. If a Ric neck or any bass neck has a torque in it (that you don't want), you can manually adjust it out of the bass by loosening the rods, manually torquing the neck to straightness, and tightening the rods--that will hold, I've seen it done.

The bridge unfortunately is a pain to intonate, I'm sure people have already covered that here, but the good thing is that it stays put once you get it set so if you like Brand X strings and that's what the bridge is set up for, you are good to go. There's also the well-known trick of replacing the cross-head screws with hex-key screws so that you can adjust the bridge without removing it from the tailpiece with a small allen wrench.
 
I found the rods in my new (2010) 4003 take very little movement to adjust the neck.
Much easier than my basses with the old style rods.
I think the new 4003 wins hands down over older models in all categories.
I'm not selling off my vintage Ricks, but they won't see that much gig time any more.
 
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