Thoughts on removing some frets, but not all

[unbrokenchain]

So I built a bass from a kit a while ago, it's a j-style body with a mudbucker close to the neck and a regular J bridge pickup. I'm very happy with the bass, looks, playability, and sound, but I find that I can really get all the sounds I want out of my Fender J bass and tend to prefer it, so the kit bass mostly stays in its case. So I started considering removing the frets to have a bit more variety, having done a successful job on a cheap SX short-scale some years ago. But then I started thinking about a lot of the old-time banjo players around here who only have frets on the nut end of the board, stopping in different places from the 7th to the 12th fret. Thought maybe I could get the precision and sustain of a fretted board for supportive basslines, but then have some fretless area for solos. Any players on here who have done such a thing?

 

[southgabass]

Thinking of going fretless from like 12-end of fretboard, or making it like a mountain dulcimer where you pretty well make it play in a major/minor key? I like both ideas, but I'm a wack-a-doodle. The more practical would be to go fretless at a certain point to the end of the fretboard, but I do like playing on a dulcimer too lol.

 

[monsterthompson]

Interesting idea. My first thought would be to remove everything below 12 for fretless in the more forgiving region, then having frets in the "soloing" region, up high, for accuracy and attack. My next thought was to do the opposite, for fretless soloing up high. I could see merits for each.

I'd do this on a project bass, but not my main player.

 

[TrevorOfDoom]

The problem you'll run into is different string height requirements.
Even the lowest action on a fretted bass is pretty high action on a fretless.
You'd have to add onto the fingerboard a slab of fingerboard about the heighth of your frets.
That way your action would be consistent between the fretted and fretless parts.

 

[southgabass]

the problem with taking them below 12 is that if you play there, you're already playing 12 no matter (would be tough to make it so that it doesn't touch the top end frets)

 

[monsterthompson]

Yeah. To do frets removed below 12, you'd need an extra layer of fretboard. Like a giant "zero-fret."
Doing it above 12 creates high action in that region.

 

[Axstar]

I wouldn't, and certainly not on a cheap kit-built instrument if I didn't have the technical skills. You would need to laminate the area of the neck where you remove frets to get it up to the height of the adjacent frets.

 

[unbrokenchain]

Yeah I was thinking removing frets above 12 or somewhere, but I see the problem with the string action. That said, the fewer frets that are present towards the body, the fewer buzzes and so I could bring the action much lower. Not as close as a dedicated fretless though I suppose, for still having to clear the frets by the nut.

 

[unbrokenchain]

And just to be clear, again I'm very happy with the bass, but I also have less than $150 in it including pickup and strings..

 

[Axstar]

Where did you get that neck pickup? Looks like a very early Dimarzio Model One. They haven't offered them in chrome since the '70s as far as I know. Going for the Mel Schacher vibe?

 

[unbrokenchain]

Was just a random pickup from a local shop, no idea its age but I'm presuming early 80s? It's very hot. I was going for the sound of a Gibson EB4L that I had a while back (loved the sound but hated the body)

 

[HeavyDuty]

Similar, but different - I've always wondered about removing the frets under the G (only), and setting the action for that string appropriately. I'd never do it, but I've wondered.

 

[southgabass]

I think I have seen basses like that before some ERB's that had maybe the D and G fretless, it's an idea at least lol

 

[Kubicki Fan]

After pulling some of the frets (whichever side of the 12th fret you will have settled on) you'll eventually pull the rest.
So the only question is Do you need a fretless?

 

[monsterthompson]

Similar, but different - I've always wondered about removing the frets under the G (only), and setting the action for that string appropriately. I'd never do it, but I've wondered.

There was this thread.
Most unique bass I've seen yet

 

[HeavyDuty]

There was this thread.
Most unique bass I've seen yet

Interesting, and strange timing - I didn't see that thread! Lol

 

[Axstar]

Was just a random pickup from a local shop, no idea its age but I'm presuming early 80s? It's very hot. I was going for the sound of a Gibson EB4L that I had a while back (loved the sound but hated the body)

Probably from the mid-late '70s. Looks like an early Dimarzio Model One, which will have a DC resistance of about 11.5 k ohms. They were designed as a replacement to Gibson mudbuckers, so were less hot than the Gibsons with a few more wiring options as well.

 

[unbrokenchain]

Probably from the mid-late '70s. Looks like an early Dimarzio Model One, which will have a DC resistance of about 11.5 k ohms. They were designed as a replacement to Gibson mudbuckers, so were less hot than the Gibsons with a few more wiring options as well.

IIRC this one read closer to 14k ohms before I put it in the bass, but it's been a while so I'm not totally sure. I just wanted some type of humbucker, guy at the shop in Asheville had no idea where this one came from or how long it'd been in the shop, so I got it for 20 bucks. Sounds great with flatwounds and a pick for a jimi hendrix experience sort of sound, but a bit too muddy for anything too funky/notey. Bridge pickup helps some, but still nowhere near as clear as my regular single coil J

 

[ShadowImage]

The problem you'll run into is different string height requirements.
Even the lowest action on a fretted bass is pretty high action on a fretless.
You'd have to add onto the fingerboard a slab of fingerboard about the heighth of your frets.
That way your action would be consistent between the fretted and fretless parts.

the problem with taking them below 12 is that if you play there, you're already playing 12 no matter (would be tough to make it so that it doesn't touch the top end frets)

Basically you're going to have to slab (raise) the fretless fingerboard section unless you remove all the frets, in which case you will have to lower the bridge and nut. Either way it's going to take some work, but it could be pretty cool.

 

[Nic.]

Someone I know has a custom bass with fretted E and A for regular playing and fretless D and G for soloing. You could try that. It'll solve the action problems at least, although I don't know how you'll put in half frets.