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Thunderbird Club

I just scanned Reverb to see if there was something our new friend should check out. There is some crazy pricing with two sellers asking over $1000 for Classic Pros and one asking $1795 for an Orville. Crazy Train.

As Hamilton Burger would often say to the judge about Perry Mason... "your honor, Mr Mason is on a fishing expedition!"

upload_2023-7-14_10-23-39.jpeg
 
I would imagine that you could glue in the neck and shape the body for better upper fret access if you wanted to with a kit like that. As long as you have it aligned properly, I don't see a reason gluing in the neck wouldn't work.
I just looked back at that kit and noticed its a 24 fret neck. That would give you easy access to fret 20.
upload_2023-7-14_10-56-46.png
 
Serial number data from a lookup, missing the truss rod cover. s/n 21112351273
Sorry to be such a pain but, does this all look ok. Got slightly burned on my last Reverb transaction and I'm a bit gun shy now, lol

"Date: November, 2021

Location: Samick, Indonesia

Info: Instrument no. 51273"

Edit: just got a picture ......

IMG_3241.PNG
 
Last edited:
Serial number data from a lookup, missing the truss rod cover. s/n 21112351273
Sorry to be such a pain but, does this all look ok. Got slightly burned on my last Reverb transaction and I'm a bit gun shy now, lol

"Date: November, 2021

Location: Samick, Indonesia

Info: Instrument no. 51273"
You can get a TRC from eBay or a custom one from @Engle . The data looks correct. Make sure there is movement in the TR and the neck is straight. The rest is just setup.
 
I just looked back at that kit and noticed its a 24 fret neck. That would give you easy access to fret 20.
View attachment 5124952
With a little butchery, you could have straight forward access to all 24. You wouldn't be hacking up a Gibson, not that hacking up a Gibson hasn't been done once or twice.
 
P’s, like Birds can be soooo different….just look at the headstocks, and both 7enders…..
View attachment 5124984
My Precision has a headstock like the one on the right. So does the P-Bird. I actually think the Telecaster style one on the left is more elegant looking.
 
Serial number data from a lookup, missing the truss rod cover. s/n 21112351273
Sorry to be such a pain but, does this all look ok. Got slightly burned on my last Reverb transaction and I'm a bit gun shy now, lol

"Date: November, 2021

Location: Samick, Indonesia

Info: Instrument no. 51273"

Edit: just got a picture ......

View attachment 5125013

What's the price on that one?

Other than the fugly ass sunburst it looks good...

we can fix fugly ass sunburst...

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I use it for a lo

t of stuff. It worked great to reset a loose rock on my waterfall. Not so sure about musical instruments.
It depends on the epoxy. There are a whole lot of different epoxies for different purposes. I learned to use epoxies working on wooden boats (a very, very little) and making furniture (a bit more than a very little). The good thing about it is that you can add some wood shavings in it and it fills any gaps for a completely monolithic joint when you are done. If two parts don't fit perfectly, it's a good way to go, unlike Titebond, which requires pressure and clamping across a well mated surface. The other thing about Titebond is that it doesn't work very well when you are dealing with end grain. Putting a neck on a body has only a little end grain to deal with, but there's just that small amount of extra strength that probably doesn't matter, but might if you start shaving things here and there for access.

The thing about any kind of set joint is that it has to be right before the glue sets. It's called gluer's panic for a reason. Epoxy can set up in minutes or it can take a while, depending on the formulation. That makes it somewhat forgiving as long as the angles are all correct before you start. As you pointed out, once it sets up, you are done. Same with Gorilla Glue. The issue I have with Gorilla Glue is that it expands a bit, and that can cause issues under rare circumstances.