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Tips for getting the best possible glue joint?

Ronbeast

Ronbeast

Sep 20, 2008
847
551
33
Placentia,Newfoundland,Canada
#1
Ok,I started a new project.Its styled similar to a Gibson RD artist bass (My personal favorite Gibson bass ever made.) I even decided to stick with the all maple body and neck.The electronics are going to be very different than the MOOG electronics though.Anyways I started this thread to get some advice on getting the best possible glue joint between the two piece maple body,Thus far the joint is looking alright ( I spent A few hours sanding with 120 and 150 grit sandpaper to smooth out the wood between the joint) But I am not sure how the joint will end up,it looks alright but I want it to be perfect.So what do you guys think? Any tips for a fairly new and inexperienced builder?

-Ron
 
#4
+1 on the jointer and then sanding. I created a cobbled sander just for that purpose, it's much easier if you have a nice 90 degree edge sander. Also I really like to use an old paintbrush to apply the glue it makes a nice even coat of glue. Also apply pressure with clamps but don't squeeze it all out either, wipe off excess glue with a moist sponge.

Proper prep work makes it so much easier to get great glue joints.

Like everything building I get better each time with the tools and learning the delicate differences in working the various woods.

Good luck,
Dirk
 
#5
There was an article somewhere on the internet about proper clamping pressure. In the end, you cannot over clamp wood without the use of some hydraulic press or something.

I personally use as many clamps as I can.
 
#8
The key to a good glue joint is having a really good straight edge. The jointer us good for getting you there, but as stated above, it will leave little "bite marks" in the wood, like a planer.

In the past I have used what is called a "shooting board", which is essentially a true flat board with sandpaper stuck on it. I clamped a board on the face of my table saw, stuck sandpaper to it (I have a roll of adhesive-backed 80-grit I like for this), then used the fence of the table saw to keep the work piece perpendicular.

Now, I use a trued board as a guide and use the router table to "join" the edge of tops I'm planning to glue up.

I also clamp my tops by using rows of nails at each of the outside edges to maintain inward pressure, which clamping the piece down to the board to make the joint as flat as possible. See pictures below as an example...

Clamped - note the nails at the edges:

4908659519_ec39bd9fa1_b_d.jpg


The same piece post-gluing, after running it through the thickness sander to clean up the glue squeeze-out and to even up any inconsistencies:

4911578709_9f3f19a906_b_d.jpg
 
#11
guitar ed said:
Strangely enough, put glue on BOTH sides of the wood. I don't know why, but I have been told many times it makes a difference.

Wood glue creates a physical and a chemical bond between the two pieces of wood, adhering individual fibers to each other and effectively weaving the fibers together like a rug. (I am not a scientist and this is my layman's understanding, so if I am wrong and someone knows better please chime in). By applying glue to both surfaces the glue can work its way into the fibers more effectively. It also helps to make sure that any spots missed on one piece will be covered by the glue from the other piece as well as insuring that there is ample glue in the joint.
Click to expand...
 
#13
And, assuming you are using a fairly standard aliphatic resin type wood glue, AKA carpenter's glue, Titebond, etc. there is no need to let it cure for days. I like to leave really critical joints clamped up overnight. The bigger the glue area the slower it will be to dry. You can in fact leave smaller jobs clamped for 30 minutes or less, but I won't recommend that for instrument building.
Full cure is typically in the 12 - 18 hour range. Give a glue joint at least that long, preferably longer before final surface sanding. As the last bit of moisture leaves, the wood will shrink slightly and you can end up with sunken glue lines. All this goes for standard working temperatures in the 65 degree F and above range. Cooler/damper conditions slow things down and are best avoided.
I personally like plastic resin (urea formaldehyde) glues for laminating. Very tough, very durable bond. And the formaldehyde smells like victory.
 
#17
ok :)
This brand isn t sold in the netherlands, hence the question.
About clamping, what im most afraid to glue together is a 5 mm thin bookmatched
piece of koa for a top.
Incredible expensive stuff so, kind of afraid i make a mess of it:(
 
#19
Does nobody use additional mechanical fixtures (like biscuits) when joining body pieces? This is standard practice in furniture and cabinet making (ESPECIALLY in table tops), since the increase in glue area is sizable.
 

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