I've had combos. I've had racks. I've had heads.
I'm just curious how many people rack or don't rack and why.
I'm just curious how many people rack or don't rack and why.
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to rack or not to rack
- Thread starter Mcrelly
- Start date
i also like racks because they are convenient... you can have everything you need in one package (that is, of course, if you need more than just a head to get "your sound"). i can also keep my speaker and instrument cables in my rack. aside from the weight it really makes things easier.
I like 'racks' too. They real really nice and soft and... oh, you mean like equiptment rack?
I generally prefer to rack gear, but the rig I'm building, I'm building all the amps and pre into the MF/HF enclosure. So connect one power and peaker lead and I'm ready to go.
knarleybass
Commercial User
Awhile back I took apart my big rack case, metal flight case held a Furman Power Cond, BBE Processor and either GK1001RBI or GBE600. I got tired of lifting this rack case so I ordered a SKB case stuck the Power Conditioner and BBE Processor in that. Bought a 2 space off brand deep rack case for the GBE600. I would take the rack case with GBE600 to rehearsal and to some gigs I would also take the SKB case and place it on top of GBE600 to use the power cond and BBE. But now I just bought a used GBE750 and I bought a new Odyssey 3 space rack bag, this one has a slide out carpeted, wooden case in it, nice. I now only take the GBE750 and 1 oe 2 GB 212T cab(s) to rehearse and gigs now. I plan to place the flight case, GBE600 and other stuff on CL to sell it off, dont think I'll ever use that thing loaded up again, too heavy for my old a$$. The rack bag is heavy with the 750in it but still easier to lug than a hard case for me. And for rehearsals now I carry my GK1001 by the strap handle on the end of that amp, I pretend its a Lil Mark amp and carry it in one hand, lol. 
- Jul 23, 2007
- 617
- 13
- Disclosures
- Endorsments: Aguilar, Hartke, DR strings, Analysis Plus "Oval" Cables
avoid gator case racks!!!!!!!!!
my first use of a gator to seattle was nearly destroyed by the airlines.
so i doubt it was really ata approved.
SKB will hold up !!! but they are alot alot more dough for the shock mount that i need.
why cant we win??? lol
i will recommend celini flight case for the basses i have a huge flight case ata.
and the gator cases for basses arent bad. just avoid the racks.
i need a skb endorsement!!! hehe
i
my first use of a gator to seattle was nearly destroyed by the airlines.
so i doubt it was really ata approved.
SKB will hold up !!! but they are alot alot more dough for the shock mount that i need.
why cant we win??? lol
i will recommend celini flight case for the basses i have a huge flight case ata.
and the gator cases for basses arent bad. just avoid the racks.
i need a skb endorsement!!! hehe
i
If you have gear made to go in a rack, it should go in a rack, and it should be mounted properly, i.e., amp on bottom with plenty of support underneath so the chassis doesn't flex, and gradually smaller gear going on top.
If you have a few pieces of gear that need to be plugged in regularly and you can save time and effort by racking them, not to mention wear and tear, you should rack it. For example, I bring two X2 portable wirelesses to every gig and they're no bigger than a stompbox, but I rack them to keep from getting them banged up in transit and to keep from having to plug in each power supply and plug them into my compressor every time I go somewhere.
To be honest, there really shouldn't be a poll on this, because not racking rackable gear is kind of foolish IMHO. I guess I can see not using one if your gear is limited to bass, amp and speaker, and you don't have to transport it in a trailer where it can get busted up. But anything more elaborate and you should always rack it.
If you have a few pieces of gear that need to be plugged in regularly and you can save time and effort by racking them, not to mention wear and tear, you should rack it. For example, I bring two X2 portable wirelesses to every gig and they're no bigger than a stompbox, but I rack them to keep from getting them banged up in transit and to keep from having to plug in each power supply and plug them into my compressor every time I go somewhere.
To be honest, there really shouldn't be a poll on this, because not racking rackable gear is kind of foolish IMHO. I guess I can see not using one if your gear is limited to bass, amp and speaker, and you don't have to transport it in a trailer where it can get busted up. But anything more elaborate and you should always rack it.
I have always wondered about this question myself. If you use a standard rack (not a shock mount) it seems like it wouldn't really protect your amp from any kind of shock damage. All the vibration would hit the amp just as hard as it would without the rack because it is screwed directly to the frame of the rack. I understand it would protect it some, especially cosmetically, but is it worth it? I have been debating on if I want to put my new Thunderfunk in a nice ATA rack, or if I want to buy a really nice pelican case for it. They are about the same price. The rack would protect it more while it was in use because it is still inside the rack (you obviously have to take it out of the pelican case when using it). But nothing comes even close to the amount of protection a pelican case can offer during transit. What should I do?
I feel if nothing else even my hard plastic off brand rack case will and has protected my amp(s). The day my used GBE750 arrived with Fedex in the am, I placed it in the above mentioned rack case, took it to rehearsal that nite. Idiot singer offers to take it in for me, he places it on the foot of a small office dolly, I tell him watch it cause you have no bungee cords to hold it on, he stops to open the building door and BAM! my new amp goes sprawling onto concrete sidewalk. I tell him just leave it I'll get it. So I place it on the same dolly and coming off the elevator onto 2nd floor, BAM! my dumbass 
lets it slide off the dolly onto the carpeted floor. So had I not taken the time to place it in the rack case that morning, it would prolly have a couple or more large nics/dings/scratches on it somewhere, Ida been miffed. The amp has worked fine, well the DI is suspect, but that day it was saved from any cosmetic damage, so I feel the case paid for itself already. Stuff that looks beat to hell looses resale value so why not protect it as best possible while you own it.
lets it slide off the dolly onto the carpeted floor. So had I not taken the time to place it in the rack case that morning, it would prolly have a couple or more large nics/dings/scratches on it somewhere, Ida been miffed. The amp has worked fine, well the DI is suspect, but that day it was saved from any cosmetic damage, so I feel the case paid for itself already. Stuff that looks beat to hell looses resale value so why not protect it as best possible while you own it.
I like heads and like to plug straight in, I have even stopped using a compression pedal. Ampeg make the most nice looking heads imo - CL, VR, V4bH, etc,
I have a rack but it's only to protect it's sole occupant, so basically it's just a head by itself.
I don't see it as a rack, more like a case I guess.
I have a rack but it's only to protect it's sole occupant, so basically it's just a head by itself.
I don't see it as a rack, more like a case I guess.
I "rack" everything...even my speaker cabinets go in cases. It is an easy way to protect your investment.
Since I downsized to a LM Cmd 121p combo I have no to place to put my rack. Until now I've always racked up whatever I could just for easy of transport and setup. Since the LM purchase I've really had to rethink my set up. I've moved to a few foot pedals and wired them all up. I carry them in a suitcase. Very low tech and low key but it works.
CP
CP
Rack it to protect it.
At the very least so that it's in 'as new' condition if I decide to sell the gear in the future.
Also, losing\damaging knobs is a major pet peeve of mine! I cannot stand gear with missing knobs!
At the very least so that it's in 'as new' condition if I decide to sell the gear in the future.
Also, losing\damaging knobs is a major pet peeve of mine! I cannot stand gear with missing knobs!
I always rack my amps.
I've seen so many manufacturers of racks and cases and shockmounting cases and all that shnazz. After considering all the different engineering aspects of many construction techniques for these racks, and my experience here at my job with vibration dampening and motion control, I've got quite a checklist when it comes to buying racks these days.
Three things I need are:
1. Water/beer protection
2. Absolutely reliable structural support
3. Comfort when carrying it
I want my amp protected from rain, snow, spilled water or beer on stage, dripping awnings at bar doors, dumbasses splashing their beverages around as they carry their gear by my gear.
I want structural integrity. I don't want handles that are loose or slide around, or don't have any room for my fingers to even fit inside. I don't want spring-loaded handles, I want completely accessible handles. I don't want the actual rack rails to be aluminum anymore. I've seen rack rails flex and bend so harshly it became nigh impossible to remove the gear inside cuz everything tightened up.
I want a rack that I won't drop. I love big fat solid handles with some kind of grip on it, not just plain metal or plastic handles. I've wrapped my current rack's handles with hockey tape. Even wet, I'd never drop this thing. And I can grab it from above or below, or one-handed, and it's comfy to haul it.
Gator cases are just fine for weekend warriors. If you're driving your own gear to a local bar gig, a Gator case does fine. Except it WILL be a shockmount Gator. A standard Gator case is as protective as a refrigerator box.
I despise foam shock mounts in rack cases. Foam in a rack is the equivalent of R50 thermal insulation, not vibration/shock absorption. For a shock rack to perform correctly, the inside frame needs to have room to float and move inside the outer frame. Foam is great for keeping arrows from penetrating your rack, but are always too stiff and overdone to provide true shock absorption. A good suspension for a shock rack should allow you to move the interior frame with two fingers. If you can pinch two fingers around the inner and outer frames and actually see movement, that rack will take a banging. Foam just traps heat and keeps random pocket knives from punching all the way through to your gear, not actually absorbing any impacts or vibration.
The best shock rack material is polyurethane 60-80 durometer vibration isolators. Put them on the eight corners, and you're fine.
Right now, I'm using the SKB U.S. Roto Rack. Its body is one single injection-molded piece of ABS plastic, with no holes for water to leak into. No rivets or aluminum edges to bend up or wear out. The rack rails are steel, and will never flex like aluminum rails. The lids are also single-piece plastic, so once it's closed it's completely sealed. The handles are molded directly into the body of the rack so they'll never loosen or bend and they have plenty of room around them to get a firm full grip on them.
After all the Road Ready cases and Anvil cases and cheap SKB wimpy cases and two shockmounted Gator cases and too-heavy Grundorf rat-furred wood boxes, the SKB U.S. Roto Rack is my new standard to which I compare all other racks.
I've seen so many manufacturers of racks and cases and shockmounting cases and all that shnazz. After considering all the different engineering aspects of many construction techniques for these racks, and my experience here at my job with vibration dampening and motion control, I've got quite a checklist when it comes to buying racks these days.
Three things I need are:
1. Water/beer protection
2. Absolutely reliable structural support
3. Comfort when carrying it
I want my amp protected from rain, snow, spilled water or beer on stage, dripping awnings at bar doors, dumbasses splashing their beverages around as they carry their gear by my gear.
I want structural integrity. I don't want handles that are loose or slide around, or don't have any room for my fingers to even fit inside. I don't want spring-loaded handles, I want completely accessible handles. I don't want the actual rack rails to be aluminum anymore. I've seen rack rails flex and bend so harshly it became nigh impossible to remove the gear inside cuz everything tightened up.
I want a rack that I won't drop. I love big fat solid handles with some kind of grip on it, not just plain metal or plastic handles. I've wrapped my current rack's handles with hockey tape. Even wet, I'd never drop this thing. And I can grab it from above or below, or one-handed, and it's comfy to haul it.
Gator cases are just fine for weekend warriors. If you're driving your own gear to a local bar gig, a Gator case does fine. Except it WILL be a shockmount Gator. A standard Gator case is as protective as a refrigerator box.
I despise foam shock mounts in rack cases. Foam in a rack is the equivalent of R50 thermal insulation, not vibration/shock absorption. For a shock rack to perform correctly, the inside frame needs to have room to float and move inside the outer frame. Foam is great for keeping arrows from penetrating your rack, but are always too stiff and overdone to provide true shock absorption. A good suspension for a shock rack should allow you to move the interior frame with two fingers. If you can pinch two fingers around the inner and outer frames and actually see movement, that rack will take a banging. Foam just traps heat and keeps random pocket knives from punching all the way through to your gear, not actually absorbing any impacts or vibration.
The best shock rack material is polyurethane 60-80 durometer vibration isolators. Put them on the eight corners, and you're fine.
Right now, I'm using the SKB U.S. Roto Rack. Its body is one single injection-molded piece of ABS plastic, with no holes for water to leak into. No rivets or aluminum edges to bend up or wear out. The rack rails are steel, and will never flex like aluminum rails. The lids are also single-piece plastic, so once it's closed it's completely sealed. The handles are molded directly into the body of the rack so they'll never loosen or bend and they have plenty of room around them to get a firm full grip on them.
After all the Road Ready cases and Anvil cases and cheap SKB wimpy cases and two shockmounted Gator cases and too-heavy Grundorf rat-furred wood boxes, the SKB U.S. Roto Rack is my new standard to which I compare all other racks.
I just bought a Gator 4 space rack bag for my smaller, lightweight setup and its great. I was able to mount a power strip in the back with velcro and it zips up and can be carried in one hand with ease.
Holds my SWR Bass 350, tuner and compressor. Lots of pockets for cables and it doesnt scratch up the inside of my car when I toss it in!!
Holds my SWR Bass 350, tuner and compressor. Lots of pockets for cables and it doesnt scratch up the inside of my car when I toss it in!!
