Tools for cut blanks

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by saved, Jun 17, 2019.

  1. saved


    Aug 14, 2012
    Hi,i have a question because some things are complicated in my mind.
    I am looking for a tool to cut neck blanks from hard wood (i like to use wenge,bubinga and maple for my necks)
    I usualy go in carpenders to cut it in their bandsaw and then plane it to thickness.
    But,for easier job i thinking to use a tablesaw i have (1985 made with 315 disc diameter and maximum cut 55mm) but i have to build a guid first because it didnt have any guide for straight cut.
    I hope,because disc cuts are clearer than bandsaw cuts,i will have to sand a lill bit and not plane the blanks.Will this work?
    Also,a carpender told me that,hard woods need slow speed tools for cuting (like bandsaw) and the tablesaw will not cut properly because is fast spinning.Is this true?
    Thank you in advance
  2. barking_spider


    Oct 7, 2018
    Hardwoods can be cut with a nice sharp blade on a table saw. Make sure to keep up a constant slow speed as you push the wood through- no stopping. I would build a custom tapering jig to get the angle from the head to the body, and another to get the backside taper. I would prefer this way over a band saw, as you get a much straighter cut. Practice on cheap wood first!
    trueCutTaper jig.jpg
  3. Bruce Johnson

    Bruce Johnson Gold Supporting Member Commercial User

    Feb 4, 2011
    Fillmore, CA
    Professional Luthier
    Have you seen my thread about Router Planing Fixtures? If you already have a tablesaw, you can easily make up special fixtures, and use the router to make many of the precision cuts that you need to make building instruments.

    Router Planing Fixtures

    You should also eventually get yourself a bandsaw.
    washjayb and Deep Cat like this.
  4. dwizum


    Dec 21, 2018
    Check out the tablesaw safety thread that's stickied at the top of the forum:

    Table Saw Safety

    Table saws are great tools, and are basically purpose-built for the kind of cut you're talking about (a clean, true long rip cut). The fact that you mention yours has no guides makes me nervous from a safety perspective. Make sure you understand how to rip on a table saw before you cut anything. Watch some youtube videos, make sure you're safe. Besides the immediate danger of the spinning blade, tablesaws can kick back and throw a board with incredible force - enough to break bones or take off body parts.

    Sorry if you know all this, I don't mean to down talk to you, but it bears mentioning.

    That said, a table saw can rip clean enough to be glue-able if it's set up right and has a good ripping blade on it. So if you get the details worked out, yes - you can rip a neck blank and have the cut come out clean enough that you don't need to sand it at all. Ideally, you wouldn't be sanding to dimension or joint wood anyways, that should be done on a jointer or planing jig of some kind. Or by a hand plane. If you need to clean up after a saw cut, go read Bruce's router planing jig thread and build one of those. It'll work better for you than a jointer anyways, and it allows you to dial in dimensions much more finely than you probably can on a table saw.
    washjayb likes this.
  5. dwizum


    Dec 21, 2018
    Beej and washjayb like this.
  6. saved


    Aug 14, 2012
    Since 2012 i have build 3 basses.So,buying a bandsaw is not worth at all.

    Here is my tablesaw (the motor said 2650 rpm)

    I am thinking to buy this cutting disc because bosch said it works with aluminum (so,it would do this also with hard woods) and epoxy products (if i use epoxy o glue the neck pieces,i will not have a problem)

    If i build 2 guids,one for 20-21mm for neck thickness and one for 7mm for fretboard thickness,i dont think i need anything else.
    Just 2 guides for straight cut with standard dimensions.
    For neck side and back tapers i have build a few templates (neck side taper and headstock in one piece for easier use) and i can do this work with my router (stayer pr 10 ek)
  7. dwizum


    Dec 21, 2018
    The kind of cuts you're talking about are called rip cuts. Rip cuts are very demanding in hard wood, blades tend to load up and that puts a lot of stress on the saw. Blade manufacturers make blades specifically for ripping, they usually have very low tooth counts. Essentially, the opposite of the blade you have posted - that blade would be a poor choice for ripping.

    This would be a more typical choice:
    Teacher likes this.
  8. saved


    Aug 14, 2012
    There is the same (multi material) blade with less teeth.
    I would like to have the opotunity to cut more "complicated" materials