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Traynor TS-215 cab. What speakers to load?

I have that cab. Its decent, not fantastic. Following to learn about a better driver choice
yeah these cabs were part of the TS Solid State series, I think they came out in the early 80s, I looked around on the internet and they came with a TS-50 (Fender looking) and the TS120 (Ampeg V4 looking?). There was a TS-200 that looks like a little like Marshall that would be a cool head but they are hard to find, not really sure if it was designed for bass or not, it would have been cool if they had made a TS-400 for bass.
Id love to find an old Traynor Mono Block head but again being in the southern USA we rarely see old Traynor amps. Is there a forum for old Traynor amps? I couldnt find anything.
 
yes not really ports tech just holes

Holes ARE ports, the volume of the port is the area of the hole c the depth (~3/4" of the baffle)

I mean the back doesnt come off and the speakers are front loaded
This has nothing to do with being sealed. That's an entirely different type of cabinet.
 
I did give you some answers (for the proposed sealed approach), but you haven't given the port dimensions of the cabinet so nobody can give you accurate information or answers without that.

The holes ARE ports (you haven't seemed to grasp this yet).
 
there is nothing more frustrating than knowing about as much as the useless youthful ignorant information that gets tossed out on these forums.
basically toss some speakers in and see if it sounds good still basically works, 2021 lol
 
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I did give you some answers (for the proposed sealed approach), but you haven't given the port dimensions of the cabinet so nobody can give you accurate information or answers without that.

The holes ARE ports (you haven't seemed to grasp this yet).
yeah I know the holes are goddamn ports, just holes really though, doubt they are tuned
 
there is nothing more frustrating than knowing about as much as the useless youthful ignorant information that gets tossed out on these forums.
basically toss some speakers in and see if it sounds good still basically works, 2021 lol
You're the guy asking questions and not being happy with the answers. We'd help you with anecdotes if we could, but you got for yourself an old piece of kit, getting it running again and getting it running as well as possible is going to take a bit of footwork.

You could absolutely just put a couple drivers in there and see what happens - it might be great. It might also be crap, go figure. That's why you're looking for answers, and we're giving you some.

Deano Boreanaz mentioned the delta 15B, and that's coming right from Eminence, maybe shoot an email to eminence and see what they say.
 
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What he has is the cab, the old drivers, and a pair of deltalite 2515II drivers. I ran some modelling using the 2515's and the only change he should make is to lengthen the ports 1/2" for a tuning of 50 Hz. It'll work, but with only two 4" ports his port velocity would be through the roof at 300 watts. Power handling would be about 350 watts. He could add two more ports, one each in the top right corner and bottom left, and make those 5.5" in length for the same tuning, with no velocity issues.

Quick n dirty. Experimentation is in order with the tuning, but definitely he should add the two additional ports.
 
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Mine measured 3.5" diameter. Combined with the 3/4" port length (baffle thickness), and approximately 162L internal volume, resulted in a tuning of approximately 52 Hz. This is the information that the Eminence recommendation for the Delta 15B was based on. Note that I was only thinking about using this at home with my TS-50B, so the cone excursion was never really an issue as it may be if you're considering using this combination with higher power heads.
 
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At 3-1/2", the port velocity will be very high at 200 watts.

In its day, with a 50-100W amp it wasn't an issue. These days, it's not a practical implementation ime.

Doubling the number of ports will be necessary purely to solve the velocity limitations. Then, if no duct is installed in the port, a driver with suitable parameters for THAT tuning (with a port depth of 3/4") would need to be sourced.

otherwise, choosing a driver suitable to the volume of the box and then adjusting the depth of the port to tune the box to work WITH the driver (rather than AGAINST the driver) to achieve the desired results.
 
Nowhere was it stated that the ports were 4" in diameter. That was an eyeball guess on my part. As stated in my post #35.

The problem the OP is dealing with and what people are not recognizing is that he has in hand 2 deltalite 2515II drivers. So the solution is to work with what IS and get him up and running. He can go to the UPS store or the post office and buy cardboard mailing tubes to get the ducting problem solved, do a little fine tuning, and have a functioning bass cab.
 
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Nowhere was it stated that the ports were 4" in diameter. That was an eyeball guess on my part. As stated in my post #35.

The problem the OP is dealing with and what people are not recognizing is that he has in hand 2 deltalite 2515II drivers. So the solution is to work with what IS and get him up and running. He can go to the UPS store or the post office and buy cardboard mailing tubes to get the ducting problem solved, do a little fine tuning, and have a functioning bass cab.
He says he has a couple of DeltaLites, you are assuming series 2 but in any regard the porting is not very good for the DeltaLites as is and the ports will almost certainly start making noises above 100 watts at low frequencies.

I think perhaps where we went wrong is that some of us assumed that the OP wanted GOOD information and GOOD suggestions, not just mediocre suggestions or those that make noises other than what the bass itslef produces.

For good suggestions, more information and a better attitude is needed.