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Trimming long-scale tapewounds for short scale, small tuner basses

Step 1: make a slight crease or kink at the length between the nut and tuner (see pic below), and cure the tapes there with a drop of super glue;
Step 2: cut and peel off the tapes from the tuner side until the crease;
Step 3: fix the tapes to the inner winding with another drop of superglue;
Step 4: cut off excessive tape;
Step 5 peel some of the inner winding if necessary (such as for a Höfner bass).
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Voilà: I've fitted La Bella 760N onto my Höfner Ignition. If the 760N-M set is out of stock, this definitely works and sounds infinitely better than any tension-unbalanced 760xHBB set.
 
Step 1: make a slight crease or kink at the length between the nut and tuner (see pic below), and cure the tapes there with a drop of super glue;
Step 2: cut and peel off the tapes from the tuner side until the crease;
Step 3: fix the tapes to the inner winding with another drop of superglue;
Step 4: cut off excessive tape;
Step 5 peel some of the inner winding if necessary (such as for a Höfner bass).
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Voilà: I've fitted La Bella 760N onto my Höfner Ignition. If the 760N-M set is out of stock, this definitely works and sounds infinitely better than any tension-unbalanced 760xHBB set.
Done this with rounds and flats, but haven’t chanced it with tapes. Check out this thread https://www.talkbass.com/threads/diy-making-short-scale-strings-out-of-long-scale-strings.1549282/
I think the method with the small wheel collars is the easiest approach. You
may just be the first, on TB at least, who has shortened a tape

These are on Aussie Amazon, but you get the idea Model Aircraft Wheel Collars
The 4mm one would prob be a good size for a .135” Roto Trubass 88 for example.

I used to roll the string at the point the outer wrap was removed by rolling the string with a little super glue on it thru a little mound of bicarb. Sets of the glue immediately to stop any
potential unwrapping in its tracks
 
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Decided to do this to a .135 Roto 88 tape this morning. I’ve been using a spacer at the bridge to avoid wrapping full thickness of string around the E post. The spacer has prevented me from putting the bridge cover back on.

What I did a bit differently was put a small length of shrink wrap around the nylon at the point I wanted to strip it and the underlying first wrap of round wire back to. Keep things in place till I added a little super glue and sprinkle of bicarb to set. I removed this bit of shrink after glue set and sanded off any excess bulge of glue and blacked out the white glue/bicarb with black marker pen before running finished string back through bridge hole, as the extra girth would have meant enlarging bridge hole. After putting string back on, I then put a little shrink wrap back over the glued surgery point. So far so good
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Can see the reasoning for this string surgery in this shot showing the spacer at the bridge and position of non tapered string at E post.

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And Voila! bridge cover back on. Happy chappy
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