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Truss rod insertion question

Mikey is correct. You'll see it more of the "P" and "JAZZ" style basses, where the neck and fingerboard are the same piece (although some have a separate FB), but more times than none, the rod is installed from the back, hence the "skunk" stripe.

Most work you'll see here at LC, are 2 way rods and no curved shims.
 
I talked to a builder before who claimed to use a single action truss rod in a non curved channel. He said it worked.

If you think about it, it probably could, but I see no reason not to use a dual action rod these days. They can be had for around 10 bucks if I remember right.
 
Hi.

I talked to a builder before who claimed to use a single action truss rod in a non curved channel. He said it worked.

If you think about it, it probably could

If You think about it another second, you'll understand why it doesn't ;).

The only way it would work, is to mount the TR at an angle in relation to the FB/neck a'la Martin (decades ago when Fender still held the patent) IIRC. A lot of hassle for no real benefit nowadays IMLE.

Regards
Sam
 
A straight truss rod can only compress the wood. If it is mounted high it will compress the upper part of the neck. If it is mounted low it will compress the lower neck. Only a arched (single rod) can push upward on the middle of the neck. A double rod pushes upward by it's design, (unless you accidently install it upside down). A Fender style arched channel is difficult to accomplish by the small builder. The double rod is the easiest way to go.
Rocky
 
If my earlier statement still had you thinking that it would work then you do not understand math.

A tangent of 24" with an arc of ~1/16" is not be able to be straightened by putting tension across the tangent.

A tangent of 24" with and arc of ~1/8" will have very limited ability to be straightened by putting tension across the tangent.

There is a reason that Fenders have stripped trusses.
 
Assuming you put enough tension it will. It would work, very poorly of course.

I have an odd feeling that I have a decent grasp on ''math''. I'm really done even discussing this, it wasn't really my idea in the first place. Most of your posts give me headaches anyways.
 
Okay ya'll, Imma explain what Mikey is saying in layman terms. A SINGLE action truss rod is basically a long bolt with a stop (like a fixed rectangular washer meant to sit in a slot and keep the rod from shifting in the channel) at one end and a nut with a another stop at the other. So, you set the rod in the channel and the stop opposite the nut goes in a slot at one end and the nut pushes at its stop. Simple? Ok, the complicated part that Mikey is trying to tell you is this.... if the rod is straight when inserted.... when you tighten the nut, it's not going to bend. I mean that makes sense right? Tightening a nut on the bolt compresses it. When you tighten a nut on a bolt on your car or whatever, does it bend? No. It will snap first. So, what you do for a single action is make it curved (by shoving it in a curved channel) TO BEGIN WITH. Then, you tighten it which straightens it and pulls the neck back.

A DOUBLE action rod is super simple despite the name. It is a single action rod with a flat metal rod welded to both stops at the ends. When you tighten or loosen it, it acts against the flat metal rod instead of the channel. The reason it doesn't need to be curved is that the flat metal rod is more pliable than the thick wood. Eventually the metal rod bends enough to bend the wood.

And DUAL action? That's just two single actions rods that share the same stops, but they have their nuts at opposite ends (Fender uses them, DOUBLE action rods are just as well).

Make sense people?

SINGLE ACTION: elastic string

DOUBLE ACTION: bow (as in bow-and-arrow)

DUAL ACTION (2-WAY): two elastic strings