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Unable to add more relief

Hi, I have this bass with a neck tht's too straight and I wanna add some relief

The issue is that it seems I can't loosen anymore as the attachment to the truss rod is coming off as I loosen it

What can I do? Get new strings?

IMG_20230905_084757.jpg
 
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slight, it's too close for my liking

i usually press on the 1st and 12th fret and check the distance between the 5th fret and the E string, which is nearly touching the string

Try the 1st and 19th or last fret where neck-meets-pocket...measure at the 8th. 1st and 12th won't cut it. Is the neck straight with strings removed and TR fully slackened? Can the TR nut be removed completely? Nominal relief as I described would be .010-.014".

Riis
 
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I think thicker strings end up having higher tension which could promote more action.

If the bridge saddles are raised up, does that help? There is higher action but maybe not in a useful manner. You have to try and see.
 
Try the 1st and 19th or last fret where neck-meets-pocket...measure at the 8th. 1st and 12th won't cut it. Is the neck straight with strings removed and TR fully slackened? Can the TR nut be removed completely? Nominal relief as I described would be .010-.014".

Riis

yes to straight neck and nut able to be removed completely

i was just stating the 1st and 12th fret thing as a reference, what's more impt is tht it didnt feel right (as in too close) at the lower frets when i play
 
yes to straight neck and nut able to be removed completely

i was just stating the 1st and 12th fret thing as a reference, what's more impt is tht it didnt feel right (as in too close) at the lower frets when i play

For kicks & giggles, I would leave the TR nut as pic’d and retune to pitch. You would THINK that ~140 lbs of tension would force some level of concavity into the neck & FB profile. A measurement at the 8th (1st + 19th) would be a reference of some value and a starting point on which to build.

Riis
 
Are you opposed to attempting a relatively safe heat treatment of the neck?
If not, I have a method. And if you have some clamps, a heating pad, a sturdy table, some books, and an adventurous desire to fix a bass on your own, then I can certainly guide you through the process.
 
Are you opposed to attempting a relatively safe heat treatment of the neck?
If not, I have a method. And if you have some clamps, a heating pad, a sturdy table, some books, and an adventurous desire to fix a bass on your own, then I can certainly guide you through the process.

Read abt this, will think abt it

I think thicker strings end up having higher tension which could promote more action.

If the bridge saddles are raised up, does that help? There is higher action but maybe not in a useful manner. You have to try and see.

Will try thicker strings next time

For kicks & giggles, I would leave the TR nut as pic’d and retune to pitch. You would THINK that ~140 lbs of tension would force some level of concavity into the neck & FB profile. A measurement at the 8th (1st + 19th) would be a reference of some value and a starting point on which to build.

Riis

I tried the 1st and 19th method u mentioned on my other basses tht had the relief done and all of them measures within tht range you gave :)

I might just follow this method u gave cause it's easier on these old eyes of mine
 
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Read abt this, will think abt it



Will try thicker strings next time



I tried the 1st and 19th method u mentioned on my other basses tht had the relief done and all of them measures within tht range you gave :)

I might just follow this method u gave cause it's easier on these old eyes of mine
Just a note 1st through 19th wont always provide you an accurate reading. The heel area of neck beggining from the 12th up to 20th and abobe can be prone to haning ramps and in some cases dips. That will affect what you are reading as relief, maximum accuracy is achieved by comparing the reading from 1st to 12th against the more common 1st to 17th.
 
Apologies for my lack of spelling proficiency, the edit function is sorely missed. I invite you to search the term ski jump and read some threads on the subject, some fine reading material for a rainy day and provides some insight on why you shouldnt solely take your relief measurements by fretting all the way down at the heel.
 
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Just a note 1st through 19th wont always provide you an accurate reading. The heel area of neck beggining from the 12th up to 20th and abobe can be prone to haning ramps and in some cases dips. That will affect what you are reading as relief, maximum accuracy is achieved by comparing the reading from 1st to 12th against the more common 1st to 17th.

At which fret u check when using the 1st to 12th fret method?
 
Hi, I have this bass with a neck tht's too straight and I wanna add some relief

The issue is that it seems I can't loosen anymore as the attachment to the truss rod is coming off as I loosen it

What can I do? Get new strings?

View attachment 5180248


Looking at the nut.... is that an 8 string strung with only 4 strings?
I used to [when I ran out of strings & could not source them in the middle of nowhere where I was at the time] occasionally string a E2 12 string acoustic guitar with 6, the [dual] TR adjustment would get close to fully loose, but it worked...

I would try @Zooberwerx suggestion first... a neck can take a bit of time to adjust/settle, especially a thick older one, and if it takes & bows a bit, then tighten & back off the relief to where you need/want it in small increments.
RotoSound 77 LDs or RS "Steve Harris Custom" strings should make it usable for archery without any TR tension applied.... ;) .
If that fails, take it to a good & trusted luthier or if you are a confident DIYler, have e.g. someone like @rojo412 guide you through it.
FB removals and set neck resets & heat treatments I leave to be done by a trusted luthier, so I personally cannot help with that.
 
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