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underpowering causing the amp to blow?
- Thread starter thebassmuchacho
- Start date
Yeah, if you set the impedance selector switch on the V4B to 4 ohms, you shouldn't have any problems. The whole concept of "underpowering the cab" is somewhat of a misconception (really it only applies to solid state amps that are poorly designed and allow the amp to clip "badly" at or near full power). You won't have any problems at all with a tube amp, don't even worry about it.
No you're not giving the speaker DC current when you start clipping it, unless something is really wrong with the amp. That's a myth.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the correction. Can't remember where I read that, but obviously it's not true.
How about you tech-head type fellas start putting your credentials in your avatar or signature line? so that TB'ers can differentiate between opinions, myths and facts. Sort of like Dan Elliot and Joris do.
That's not to discredit the wealth of experience and resources that non qualified posters have to offer, but it's also nice to have confidence that what we are being told is indeed facts when someone lays down the law.
Thanks for the correction. Can't remember where I read that, but obviously it's not true.
How about you tech-head type fellas start putting your credentials in your avatar or signature line? so that TB'ers can differentiate between opinions, myths and facts. Sort of like Dan Elliot and Joris do.
That's not to discredit the wealth of experience and resources that non qualified posters have to offer, but it's also nice to have confidence that what we are being told is indeed facts when someone lays down the law.
Geez, if we listed our "credentials" there'd be a litany longer than the sum total of all the posts in this forum throughout history. Okay, a slight exaggeration maybe, but you get the idea.
Funny thing about credentials, you can buy them on the Internet these days. Complete with historical records.
As always in the space of credentials, it's mainly "caveat emptor". And when it comes to "the truth", which mostly relates to utility anyway, there's no substitute for experience.
Here's my method: ask ten people the same question. If they all answer the same way, that tells you something. If they all answer differently, that tells you something too.
Then ask the same person the same question twice in a row. If they answer differently, that tells you something.
Funny thing about credentials, you can buy them on the Internet these days. Complete with historical records.
As always in the space of credentials, it's mainly "caveat emptor". And when it comes to "the truth", which mostly relates to utility anyway, there's no substitute for experience.
Here's my method: ask ten people the same question. If they all answer the same way, that tells you something. If they all answer differently, that tells you something too.
Then ask the same person the same question twice in a row. If they answer differently, that tells you something.
"When all other possibilities are eliminated, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth."
Even if I am a smouldering heap of ashes on the ground
No, seriously, with some things, what you suggested can be quite a good way to find the best advice; to take the general consensus of opinion as an indicator to point in the direction of the most probable answer to the question being posted.
Even if I am a smouldering heap of ashes on the ground
No, seriously, with some things, what you suggested can be quite a good way to find the best advice; to take the general consensus of opinion as an indicator to point in the direction of the most probable answer to the question being posted.
BTW, if you have a SINGLE speaker, you are SOL re-wiring.
If there are multiple speakers, you may have a chance, depending on what they are.
Old SVT 8-10 had 32 ohm speakers, tending to limit what can be done unless you wanted 16 ohms.
Ones with series/parallel 16 or 8 ohm speakers may have the ability to reach what you want.
If there are multiple speakers, you may have a chance, depending on what they are.
Old SVT 8-10 had 32 ohm speakers, tending to limit what can be done unless you wanted 16 ohms.
Ones with series/parallel 16 or 8 ohm speakers may have the ability to reach what you want.
its easy if the speakers are wired in a certain way all you getta do is add a wire to connect one spot, ive done it to my crate 4x10 to get a bit more power to it so it doesnt sound as crappy.
No you haven't. You can't rewire an 8 ohm cab to make it 4.
edited: Let me qualify this statement with "IF you keep all 4 speakers connected".
Since this cab likely has 8 ohm speakers, here's what has most likely been done: Two speakers are connected in parallel, with a wire going from the + of one speaker to the + of the other, and a wire going from the - of one speaker to the - of the other. This has taken the two 8 ohm speakers and effectively made them a 4 ohm load. Now do the exact same thing with the other two speakers, that's another 4 ohm load. The speaker manufacturer then runs these two groups of speakers in series to get the 8 ohm rating. Series means that the - terminal of the first group is connected to the + terminal of the other group, the speaker jack + goes to the first group +, the speaker jack - goes to the second group -.
Now bypass one set of speakers with a jumper wire, and voila, it's now a 4 ohm cab. But wait!! You've now got two speakers that aren't being used, they're just passive radiators. So you're now putting twice the power, into half as many speakers, with two unused speakers flapping in the wind. That is not acceptable to most of us.
edited: Let me qualify this statement with "IF you keep all 4 speakers connected".
Since this cab likely has 8 ohm speakers, here's what has most likely been done: Two speakers are connected in parallel, with a wire going from the + of one speaker to the + of the other, and a wire going from the - of one speaker to the - of the other. This has taken the two 8 ohm speakers and effectively made them a 4 ohm load. Now do the exact same thing with the other two speakers, that's another 4 ohm load. The speaker manufacturer then runs these two groups of speakers in series to get the 8 ohm rating. Series means that the - terminal of the first group is connected to the + terminal of the other group, the speaker jack + goes to the first group +, the speaker jack - goes to the second group -.
Now bypass one set of speakers with a jumper wire, and voila, it's now a 4 ohm cab. But wait!! You've now got two speakers that aren't being used, they're just passive radiators. So you're now putting twice the power, into half as many speakers, with two unused speakers flapping in the wind. That is not acceptable to most of us.
Many crate cabs are 4/16 wired..
if they don't have a switch...who cares? 2 16s paralleled for 8, in series with another pair....hey, 16.
Connect all in parallel and 4 16s give a 4.
So if you take the top of the "bottom pair" to hot, and the bottom of the top pair to return, you get 4 16s in parallel...4 ohms.
But, that ain't "connecting a wire in one spot...."
If he had 8 ohm speakers inside, you are correct, he can get 8 or 2 but not 4.
Like I said...depends how the speaker is wired, and the impedance of the speakers.
if they don't have a switch...who cares? 2 16s paralleled for 8, in series with another pair....hey, 16.
Connect all in parallel and 4 16s give a 4.
So if you take the top of the "bottom pair" to hot, and the bottom of the top pair to return, you get 4 16s in parallel...4 ohms.
But, that ain't "connecting a wire in one spot...."
If he had 8 ohm speakers inside, you are correct, he can get 8 or 2 but not 4.
Like I said...depends how the speaker is wired, and the impedance of the speakers.
Yes, if it was four 16 ohm speakers you can get either 4 or 16 ohms (or 1 ohm). (And 8 ohm speakers can get you 2 or 8, (or 32 ohms).
But there ain't no 8 to 4 conversion, or vise versa, not keeping the same number of speakers.
There is a somewhat radical web site that advocates "detuned" speakars. Basically, if you have a 2x15 for example, remove one of the 15's and leave the space open. Interesting but a little weird. That's one option, in a 4x10 cab, remove two speakers....weird.
But there ain't no 8 to 4 conversion, or vise versa, not keeping the same number of speakers.
There is a somewhat radical web site that advocates "detuned" speakars. Basically, if you have a 2x15 for example, remove one of the 15's and leave the space open. Interesting but a little weird. That's one option, in a 4x10 cab, remove two speakers....weird.
"When all other possibilities are eliminated, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth."
"Even if I am a smouldering heap of ashes on the ground"?
One "true" thing I've learned over the years, is that there are some things (musically and otherwise) that can't be understood in terms of logic. An example might be the spiritual aspect of music, like why a good groove can get ten thousand people behaving exactly the same way at the same time (maybe 'cause it touches something so deep and illogical). How about the expectation of a good show? The faith that I'll be lifted up to a new plane of life experience if I can just get a ticket? Music is a powerful force. Bassmaniac, your point is well taken.
Consider this: when logic fails, whatever remains must be the truth. Hmm...
"Even if I am a smouldering heap of ashes on the ground"?
One "true" thing I've learned over the years, is that there are some things (musically and otherwise) that can't be understood in terms of logic. An example might be the spiritual aspect of music, like why a good groove can get ten thousand people behaving exactly the same way at the same time (maybe 'cause it touches something so deep and illogical). How about the expectation of a good show? The faith that I'll be lifted up to a new plane of life experience if I can just get a ticket? Music is a powerful force. Bassmaniac, your point is well taken.
Consider this: when logic fails, whatever remains must be the truth. Hmm...
