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Double Bass Upright bass amplifier settings

sidonbass

Supporting Member
May 27, 2006
332
186
Santa Fe, New Mexico
I’m curious to know what others are doing with their amp settings. My rig: Upright bass with Full Circle pickup into a Red Eye preamp into a Traynor amp.
I often get boominess (a word?).
It seems like I need to keep the bass eq way down to avoid it, but then the overall sound isn’t right. Mids? Treble way down.
I’d like to see what others are doing to EQ their upright sound?
I know it also relates to the room but maybe there’s a common setting?
Thanks
 
A second on using an HPF to get rid of boom and what not. I use a Realist Lifeline straight into an AI Clarus and Doubleshot. For that amp setup, I found keeping the HPF at noon helpful and generally add more treble and high mids to (usually between 12-3 o'clock) and keep low mids and bass low (usually at about 9 o'clock). If the room I'm playing in is very boomy and just doesn't sound good, I'll boost the HPF and possibly even zero the bass knob. If I'm using a house amp somewhere, I dial in everything at 12 o'clock and adjust as needed.

Overall every player, bass, room, and amp is going to be different. I think a good thing to keep in mind is to know what your acoustic sound is like, and thus dial in your amplified sound in a way that reflects and enhances your acoustic sound. For me, I've learned that my acoustic sound is pretty low end heavy, so if I boost any low frequencies on an amp, my sound becomes very muddy and unfocused. I figured out that by increasing the higher frequencies on an amp, I can make up the difference sonically and have a clearer and focused tone.
 
you need a high pass filter to get rid of the boominess.

Took me years to realize this. It not only got rid of the boom, it was a huge help in fighting feedback. I use the fdeck Series 2M, handmade by a TB member.

Some amps do have HPFs like the Acoustic Image amps, but they are not that common even in other amps designed for DB. Some of the current Mesa amps have one. Otherwise, you're looking into preamp pedals like the Fishman Platinum series, Grace Alex and Felix ($$$$$$$$$), SansAmp ParaDriver, L.R. Baggs Align EQ.
 
when I had the redeye preamp, I used the broughton 'Always On' HPF in my signal chain. The fdeck works great too.

I now use a Messenger V2 or Grace Designs Alix which have an onboard HPF. Really helps with adjusting your sound for any room. I have an AI Focus with the onboard preamp and if I use an amp over my in-ears, I can go directly in to my head without a preamp.

Yes.... I have and/or have tried every piece of gear out there :whistle:
 
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I’m curious to know what others are doing with their amp settings. My rig: Upright bass with Full Circle pickup into a Red Eye preamp into a Traynor amp.
I often get boominess (a word?).
It seems like I need to keep the bass eq way down to avoid it, but then the overall sound isn’t right. Mids? Treble way down.
I’d like to see what others are doing to EQ their upright sound?
I know it also relates to the room but maybe there’s a common setting?
Thanks
I know the situation when you turn bass down to take away boominess, but then you expose "ugly" mid/highs (quack and scratchiness/fingernoise). And when you turn that down, you have "no" sound left. The solution to me is to add a bit of bass, so you get a more balanced sound without taking away all mids/highs. At least, that would be my suggestion when working without an HPF. So the idea is to balance bass, mid and treble, not take away everything ugly. The volume knob is an integral part. To much scratch - turn bass slightly up, and volume slightly down. Too wolly/boomy - opposite.
 
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I use a FC into a Red Eye into a Markbass 112 combo. I usually turn the bass down to around 9 o'clock and leave the mids around 12. High mids and treble are usually pretty low (9 o'clock or less). Everything is subject to change, based on the room. I also like to have my amp on a chair, which seems to help a lot with boominess.
 
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My experience was different with the Red Eye into a Traynor SB-106 using the David Gage Lifeline, but that's very specific to my bass and the other elements in my chain. With that small cabinet I don't really need a HPF.
Just my take of course. If I'm using my Grace I'd have the high pass filter somewhere between 60-70. Just my take however.
 
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I’m curious to know what others are doing with their amp settings. My rig: Upright bass with Full Circle pickup into a Red Eye preamp into a Traynor amp.
I often get boominess (a word?).
It seems like I need to keep the bass eq way down to avoid it, but then the overall sound isn’t right. Mids? Treble way down.
I’d like to see what others are doing to EQ their upright sound?
I know it also relates to the room but maybe there’s a common setting?
Thanks


IMHO, the answer will only be relevant if your question is stated like this. What setting do you use with my bass, pickup, and rig? In other words someone would need to actually fiddle around with your gear.

There will also be variation depending on acoustics and the spatial relationship between th speaker and bass.

Beyond that, I have actually had players use my gear...and they adjusted it totally different than I do...and they sounded great.

Of course, none of this is helpful, so I should add:

I usually elevate my speaker and tilt it back to aim at my head. There are two ideas behind this. 1. I believe this puts less energy into the basses body, which means the feedback loop that passes between the bass, pickup, amp, and speaker is a bit weaker. Weakening the feedback loop allows you to turn up a bit more before the sound becomes totally unusable. 2. Elevating and tilting the cab also shorten the path the sound travels from the speaker to my ears, and ensures my ears are in the dispersion pattern for the entire frequency range. This allows me to hear better at a lower volume, which is useful for me because I almost always rely on the PA to deliver my sound to the audience.

The downside is some players prefer a deep thumpy sound and don't won't to hear the higher frequencies. If this is you, you probably wont' like elevating the cab and aiming it at your head.

Something else I do is use corrective EQ. A simple Bass, Mid, Treble control is generally used to bet a sound. It's not flexible enough to compensate for acoustic problems or the non-linearities that occur in your signal path.

Probably the best utilality EQ I have used was a 31-band graphic. With 31 sliders, the bandwidth is narrow enough that you can cut without gutting your sound. Since the sliders are spaced at 1/3 octave, you want be able to cut precisely where the problem frequency is but, in my experience it's close enough. Unfortunately, I don't believe anyone makes a 31-band pedal.

A fully parametric EQ can be even more precise. Fully parametric allows you to adjust frequency center, bandwidth, and the degree of cut or boost. Parametric EQ pedals also tend to be somewhat limited. Most are not fully parametric.

The Parametric I would suggest trying it the Empress MkII ParaEQ Deluxe.
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This unit has three bands of parametric EQ. You can adjust frequency center, bandwidth, and the amount of cut and boost. The limiting factor is the frequency bands have limited range. Adjacent bands overlap, but the don't cover the full audio spectrum. See the pedal controls above. I think the two lower bands would be useful for notching out feed back. The high band would probably be most useful configure as a wide band with a gentle cut use to mellow out the high-mids a bit.

The Deluxe also has Bass and Treble shelving controls, variable HPF and LPF, and a selectable Boost feature.

If you are interested: ParaEq MKII – Empress Effects Inc.

The Source Audio EQ2, may be a better solution, but I think most players will find it overly confusing and fiddly. EQ2 Programmable Equalizer - Source Audio Website
This is a 10-band EQ and it says you can adjust frequency center and Q for each band. The adjustment range is 20-20kHz.
 
How I use a powerful utility EQ? It's essentially the same process I use to ring a PA for feedback. Ringing the room something I prefer to do every time I set up a PA.

Process:
Turn up the gain until the bass is right on the edge of feedback. The idea is to figure out what frequencies are most problematic and apply a deep notch. So with a 31-band graphic. I start at the bottom and peak two bands at a time then evaluate. Next I move up one band, so band that was on top now is on the bottom and I have added a new band on top. After peaking the first three bands I decide if a cut is appropriate. This requires judgement. In my experience you can typically notch out 4-6 frequencies, but at some point the notches will start gutting your sound. So work your way up through all of the sliders and cut 4-6 of the worst frequencies.

I find that after ringing a bass, it sounds way more natural and the amp can be turned up way louder.

With a parametric you start with the gain near feedback. The you configure a frequency band for medium-narrow bandwidth. Apply about 6dB of boost and sweep the band slowly across it's usable range. Note the problem frequencies that want to break over into feedback, and notch out the worst with available filters.

Keep in mind that extreme feedback can damage your speakers. So try to be as gentle and quick as you can. I like to keep one hand on a gain control. As the EQ filter is adjust closer to the problem frequency, the idea is to reduce the gain to keep the feedback at the lowest possible level. If the rig breaks over into really hard feedback, immediately turn the gain all the way down to kill it.
 
My experience was different with the Red Eye into a Traynor SB-106 using the David Gage Lifeline, but that's very specific to my bass and the other elements in my chain. With that small cabinet I don't really need a HPF.
Just my take of course. If I'm using my Grace I'd have the high pass filter somewhere between 60-70. Just my take however.
Hey Ric
I picked up a used SB 106 on reverb and use it for rehearsals and small gigs. Love it!!!
 
Does the bass boom acoustically?
A bow will help you find loud and soft strings and wolf notes.
If it is bottom heavy.the sound post under the E string foot of the bridge needs moving fractionally towards the G string.

This involves slackening the strings and careful manipulation.
You may need professional help.

It's better to get a good acoustic sound before doing EQ gymnastics.
 
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