So a few months ago I put a (fender) chrome pickup cover on my jazz bass, and used some pickguard screws I had laying around, as it didn't come with screws. Through the course of time, the screws (tops) have filled with residue (not rust, although maybe partially) and one has somehow been stripped. No other screws on the entire bass are doing it, just those 2. I have not touched the thing with a screwdriver, and am thoroughly confused. Help! D:
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Very peculiar, minor problem. How does this even happen?
- Thread starter Blargh
- Start date
That's what I was thinking for the top one. That and skin.
But the bottom one is the one that is stripped and I don't ever get remotely near it.
But the bottom one is the one that is stripped and I don't ever get remotely near it.
Well, Corrosion and crud buildup I can understand. Screws becoming mysteriously stripped or somehow dysfunctional? Beats the heck out of me.
The only thing I can think of is cleaning up the screws, and prying out the stripped one and fill it's stripped out rest with wood shavings/toothpicks and Elmer's glue.
The only thing I can think of is cleaning up the screws, and prying out the stripped one and fill it's stripped out rest with wood shavings/toothpicks and Elmer's glue.
That's what one saying!
I'm hoping there's enough of it left to get it out just enough to grab it with pliers or the such. But that's an adventure for another day.
It's been a while since I've had covers on my Fenders, are the cover screws countersunk(beveled) like standard PG screws?
In the absense of any other explanation, I would say galvanic corrosion.
Chrome is higher up in the galvanic series than steel and nickel. As steel and nickel are
lower in the series, they will corrode preferentially to the chrome if they are in contact
with it.
Same principle that used in galvanizing - the zinc corrodes preferentially, protecting the
steel.
.
Chrome is higher up in the galvanic series than steel and nickel. As steel and nickel are
lower in the series, they will corrode preferentially to the chrome if they are in contact
with it.
Same principle that used in galvanizing - the zinc corrodes preferentially, protecting the
steel.
.
So the TOP of the lower screw is corroded enough that a screwdriver won't work?
Is that what you're saying?
If so, I use a small cutting wheel on my Dremel rotary tool to cut enough of a slot into the head to use a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Is that what you're saying?
If so, I use a small cutting wheel on my Dremel rotary tool to cut enough of a slot into the head to use a small flat-blade screwdriver.
Sweat, skin cells, dirt and rust. Try to insert a screwdriver tip, it can't get in deep enough, stripola. Try harder, push harder, you get a little deeper but just strip a little more metal. repeats till just a mess results. You might sill have a chance if you dig the crud out before you try putting in the driver.
I've been able to get a screw like this by putting a narrow flat head driver in the stripped phillips slot and it got enough "grab" to back it out, it's not like a real big screw that needs a lot of torque. Be sure any drivers you use have crisp sharp blades. Worn drivers just contribute to the problem. Not really peculiar, pretty common, actually.
I've been able to get a screw like this by putting a narrow flat head driver in the stripped phillips slot and it got enough "grab" to back it out, it's not like a real big screw that needs a lot of torque. Be sure any drivers you use have crisp sharp blades. Worn drivers just contribute to the problem. Not really peculiar, pretty common, actually.
I'm a happy owner of many, many Indo basses: they reached a satisfyin' hardware quality nowadays
Unfortunately, lil' screws don't
You can have a good bass with himass bridge, brass saddles, stable machineheads (pleasant pickup covers/ashtrays... you name'em) and still find poor, cheap screws to keep everything together
That's pretty common, I agree
Not findin' already damaged screws, not havin'... screwed'em
Cheers,
Wallace
+1 on the galvanic reaction. Some metals react with each other with astonishing speed and results.
I once replaced the hitch attachment on a boat trailer. It turns out that the chromed metal of the hitch attachment and the frame of the trailer were incompatible. Before long, the galvanic reaction had eaten away at the trailer frame. While not rust/oxidation, the end result is corroded and weakened metal.
It sounds like this is what happened to the screws on your bass. I hope everything turns out OK.
I once replaced the hitch attachment on a boat trailer. It turns out that the chromed metal of the hitch attachment and the frame of the trailer were incompatible. Before long, the galvanic reaction had eaten away at the trailer frame. While not rust/oxidation, the end result is corroded and weakened metal.
It sounds like this is what happened to the screws on your bass. I hope everything turns out OK.
I agree. Especially if the screws were plated in some odd metal rather than chrome (cadmium).
Plus where there are parts that come on and off a lot like battery covers or ashtrays and pickup covers (when changing strings) I ALWAYS mod my bass with 4-40 stainless machine screws and threaded inserts. Wood screws are just a strip waiting to happen. I really don't understand why even some expensive basses are still using wood screws. Usually for drill I put inserts on all the small screws including pickguard and control plate. Just gets rid of that stripped screwhole hassle.
Threaded inserts are slick....but.... If you sweat a lot that moisture can wick down the screw and "rot" the wood. If an insert pulls out you have a small repair to contend with, you generally have to drill-out and plug. A wood screw that pulls out can be more easily repaired multiple times. Maybe not a concern for too many here but it's something I've had to deal with...I get pretty moist.
