Warwick Neck Issues. Should I be Concerned? (with pictures)

[baconmpanada]

I have a 1993 Warwick Thumb BO. So far i have the following concerns:

1. the Trussrod adjustment seems maxed out or stuck
2. minimal upbow when the bass is unstrung.
3. the neck seems straight enough strung and properly tuned.
4. There seems to be some part of the neck heel part that was shaved off.

The action for me is fine and i can play it properly.

Should i be concerned with this? What problems may i encounter with the bass's neck movingforward?

Pictures below:

33520975_10157474815369676_3784708941963853824_n by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

33419579_10157474815189676_555864408434147328_n by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

33587025_10157474816184676_5502678435681533952_n by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

32944435_10157474815149676_88795317813641216_n by Invalid Link Removed, on Flickr

 

[abarson]

I'm not certain I understand the concern. You say it plays fine and you like it?
The neck pocket looks normal. Regardless whether the neck heel has been shaved or not, the bolts are holding it in position to allow good intonation, correct? Or are you saying it's less than the 34" scale because the neck got moved inward?
As far as the trussrod goes, if the setup is good, why are you concerned about changing it?

 

[baconmpanada]

I'm not certain I understand the concern. You say it plays fine and you like it?
The neck pocket looks normal. Regardless whether the neck heel has been shaved or not, the bolts are holding it in position to allow good intonation, correct? Or are you saying it's less than the 34" scale because the neck got moved inward?
As far as the trussrod goes, if the setup is good, why are you concerned about changing it?

Thanks Abarson!


i guess i'm overthinking if the bass may need further adjustments down the line, should i be too concerned that i may need to replace the trussrod?
Or i may also want to trade it for another bass, should the prospective owner be concerned?

I am used to play with medium action so i haven't had any problems with it. I'm guessing a similar player won't need to adjust the trussrod that often as well.

I live in the Philippines where people tend to have the idea that a trussrod problem is a make or break deal.

 

[IronLung1986]

Thanks Abarson!


i guess i'm overthinking if the bass may need further adjustments down the line, should i be too concerned that i may need to replace the trussrod?
Or i may also want to trade it for another bass, should the prospective owner be concerned?

I am used to play with medium action so i haven't had any problems with it. I'm guessing a similar player won't need to adjust the trussrod that often as well.

I live in the Philippines where people tend to have the idea that a trussrod problem is a make or break deal.

You're not wrong to be concerned about a non-functioning truss rod. Sure the setup might be acceptable today, but if the wood moves over time you'll be unable to compensate for it. I'll be honest, to me a bass is the walking dead at that point.

 

[Warpeg]

If I recall correctly, the old Warwicks have a truss rod that is easy-'ish to remove. I think there are some YouTube videos showing how to do it relatively quickly. If you can get the rod out, then you can inspect (and replace if need be).

 

[MattZilla]

^that would be quite fortunate if it turns out (pun not intended) to be removable and thus serviceable.

 

[Warpeg]

FYI: Invalid Link Removed

 

[James Collins]

If I recall correctly, the old Warwicks have a truss rod that is easy-'ish to remove. I think there are some YouTube videos showing how to do it relatively quickly. If you can get the rod out, then you can inspect (and replace if need be).

The easy to remove ones were 1 way in the 80s. I do not think any bolt on had this truss rod.

Regarding OPs truss rod dilemma: the truss rod affects how much bow you have in the neck. Adjust the action at the bridge saddles. Consider loosening the truss rod which will "raise" the action so that your relief is a little higher...maybe 0.5 mm even. Normal values of relief are anywhere from 0mm to over 1mm to suit your taste. Warwick sets the relief from the factory at 0.75 to 1mm I believe.

After you set your relief, adjust your saddles to the action you prefer. Having a little more relief will normally allow lower action without buzz.

 

[baconmpanada]

If I recall correctly, the old Warwicks have a truss rod that is easy-'ish to remove. I think there are some YouTube videos showing how to do it relatively quickly. If you can get the rod out, then you can inspect (and replace if need be).

Awesome, will look into doing that. Thank you very much.

 

[baconmpanada]

You're not wrong to be concerned about a non-functioning truss rod. Sure the setup might be acceptable today, but if the wood moves over time you'll be unable to compensate for it. I'll be honest, to me a bass is the walking dead at that point.

Thanks. In my experience the neck hadn't move that much since I owned it, I hope that certain remedies can be done like supporting the neck when trussrod is to be further adjusted.

 

[FrugalBassist]

Thanks. In my experience the neck hadn't move that much since I owned it, I hope that certain remedies can be done like supporting the neck when trussrod is to be further adjusted.

Thanks. In my experience the neck hadn't move that much since I owned it, I hope that certain remedies can be done like supporting the neck when trussrod is to be further adjusted.

I agree with Warpeg about some YouTube Warwick tutorials. I own a '95 Warwick Fortress, and found that the vids uploaded by them are quite helpful, or thorough. One note, have you tried to oil the truss rod cavity to "release" the frozen nut? I understand that this is commonly needed on earlier models like ours. Should help. Get past this and you should be good to go for some time. I live in a very humid climate, Mississippi Delta, and I have only needed to adjust my truss rod twice in the 23 years I have owned it. It's still a joy to play. No fret noise, the action is low enough (1.5mm), and still chimes like a bell.. Hope this helps.

 

[James Collins]

Awesome, will look into doing that. Thank you very much.

The easily removed truss rods were from the 80s and single action.

Edit: Until 1996 they are removable.

 

[WardEarth]

Fairly certain my 90's fortress has a removable truss rod, and I would think that your thumb has one too. If it plays well, I wouldn't mess with it. But if want to try and break it free, you probably want to go counter-clockwise first. If you end up wanting to try to replace it, you will have to loosen it.
That neck-heel mark is a little strange, who knows - maybe somebody shaved off the fretboard overhang at some point.
Up-bow when its unstrung is also a little strange, but its how it plays when strung that matters.

 

[James Collins]

Fairly certain my 90's fortress has a removable truss rod, and I would think that your thumb has one too. If it plays well, I wouldn't mess with it. But if want to try and break it free, you probably want to go counter-clockwise first. If you end up wanting to try to replace it, you will have to loosen it.
That neck-heel mark is a little strange, who knows - maybe somebody shaved off the fretboard overhang at some point.
Up-bow when its unstrung is also a little strange, but its how it plays when strung that matters.

You are right, my mistake. They are removable until 1996. My apologies.

Here is the video. I've done this with an 88 streamer. It was very easy.

 

[shodan]

I could be wrong, but it looks like someone has applied heat in an attempt to get the TR nut loose. And it looks like it got away from them, judging by the discoloration under the nut.

 

[Gizmot]

I own and love two Warwicks. If I see your photo correctly, you have a nice brass nut - but not a Just-A-Nut?

If that’s correct, you should get one of those too. The Just-A-Nut allows you to adjust the string height at both ends, which is very nice. As a matter of fact, it’s the reason why I bought a Warwick in the first place. They’re easy to install.

I’m not suggesting that this is a replacement for a functioning truss rod - it’s not. But is is another nicety that will make your bass better.

 

[James Collins]

I own and love two Warwicks. If I see your photo correctly, you have a nice brass nut - but not a Just-A-Nut?

If that’s correct, you should get one of those too. The Just-A-Nut allows you to adjust the string height at both ends, which is very nice. As a matter of fact, it’s the reason why I bought a Warwick in the first place. They’re easy to install.

I’m not suggesting that this is a replacement for a functioning truss rod - it’s not. But is is another nicety that will make your bass better.

I think it looks like an older just-a-nut where you adjusted a slotted screw at each string to change the height. It was nice because you could change height at each slot independently, but worse because you had to take the string out of the slot to change the nut height. You are probably more familiar with the just-a-nut iii.

 

[Epitaph04]

Yes the OP has a J-A-N 1. My favorite nuts. Mmm.

 

[WardEarth]

Yeah mine has the same nut, it works very nicely.

 

[baconmpanada]

I could be wrong, but it looks like someone has applied heat in an attempt to get the TR nut loose. And it looks like it got away from them, judging by the discoloration under the nut.

good observation, that maybe the case...