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What cab? 4 Ohm, >= 500 watts, ~<30 lbs, cheap

Re-reading your first post here, why not ask @agedhorse or call GB sales and ask if there is a cab that meets your needs and works well with your combo? You can't eq away phase cancellation, so it's best to get something that's known to play well with you combo. You might have to flex on one of the requirements though.
 
Yep, that's the point if this thread, to find it. And it has been successful: Barefaced, Schroeder, Boom Bass, and Audiokinesis all have products that fit the spec.

The Schroeders seem to be the only ones in the budget though

I'm going to suggest that they do not in fact meet your originally stated criteria... the combination of real world power handling and budget. At 4 ohms all of these could be damaged by the power your amp is capable of, especially below 40Hz. An 8 ohm version would be a better choice for power matching the source to the load.

It would not be too hard to develop a cabinet that would meet one of your criteria, like power handling, BUT a driver that can handle 600 watts RMS under bass guitar conditions is not likely to have an acceptable mid voicing, is likely to cost more than your budget, and likely to have a lower sensitivity than a more suitable driver. (Note that it's important to understand what the spec's actually mean, not what the marketing materials suggest they might mean)
 
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Many moons ago I built a cab, looking for that brass ring. I used a commercial quality Mcauley 15 meant for a sub which at the time appeared to fit the bill on paper. It was loud, light and essentially un-killable. And it sounded awful in the mid-range. : D
I used to recone McCauley drivers, well built but the LF driver's roll off around 1500hz by design. Horrible mid voicing for bass guitar IME
 
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Be sure you understand exactly what the numbers mean. The unit metrics are just as (or more) important as the numbers themselves.
 
I've had to do a lot of research on heads, cabs, and the pairing therein because my band is started to gig so I feel I have a good u dersta ding of what the numbers are and what they mean. In response to Bugera/Behringer skepticism I can only speak from my personal experiences which is very positive in terms of longevity. I FIRST got an Ampeg PF800 and Ampeg SVT-410HE but the amp fried in my third practice with it and the low left speaker AND tweeter blew in the same event. Thus far the Bugera has made it through MANY more practices than the Ampeg and has seen gigs. I have similar experiences between my Behringer BX4500 and BA115 as well. It's working for me and I like it, so I've won the Brooklyn Bridge in my mind.
 
I've had to do a lot of research on heads, cabs, and the pairing therein because my band is started to gig so I feel I have a good u dersta ding of what the numbers are and what they mean. In response to Bugera/Behringer skepticism I can only speak from my personal experiences which is very positive in terms of longevity. I FIRST got an Ampeg PF800 and Ampeg SVT-410HE but the amp fried in my third practice with it and the low left speaker AND tweeter blew in the same event. Thus far the Bugera has made it through MANY more practices than the Ampeg and has seen gigs. I have similar experiences between my Behringer BX4500 and BA115 as well. It's working for me and I like it, so I've won the Brooklyn Bridge in my mind.
That's good that your Bugera does it for you. It's not good that you can lop a zero off their wattage figures to be closer to the number produced under a recognised measurement scheme.
 
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That's good that your Bugera does it for you. It's not good that you can lop a zero off their wattage figures to be closer to the number produced under a recognised measurement scheme.

I agree. It doesn't bother me as much as others I guess. My viewpoint is I should be doing that much research on heads and cabs before I buy them to know the "true numbers" and reviews anyways but that's how I buy EVERYTHING
 
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