What shall we do with a de-veneered headstock?

[Stealth]

I recently acquired a rather cheap, $200 guitar from a store that sells J&D (nowadays, Yeou Chern) instruments because I've had luck with two previous instruments of the same brand - woodwork and hardware were good, and the electronics solid enough to keep, although I'm no stranger to rewiring. Like the ones before it, the guitar plays very very nicely, is set up well from the get-go, needs a restring to my favorite tuning and a bit of polish on the lower-end strap button, but overall, I felt it's a good purchase.

Now, this guitar was actually at 25% off because of a headstock veneer defect. I had forgotten to take photos, but the headstock plastic veneer was cracked along a curve, and I wanted to lift and reglue it. After my dad and I tried to lift it and give it a cleaner look, it started falling apart and then we realized just what had happened - the veneer had been glued on unequally, with some spots slathered with globs of glue, others almost completely unglued.

This is what it looks like now. There are removal dings, but I'm fairly sure a 220 grit sandpaper will level those out.

So, gentlemen, a penny for your thoughts, what do I do with it?

• keep the headstock veneer-free and just finish it - is oil-finishing easier if I don't have a workshop and have to do the whole thing at home?
• stain the headstock a matching red, then finish it - does the stain need to be water-based if I go for the oil finish?
• cover the headstock with a trans-red veneer to let the wood "shine through" - how do I ensure the glue is applied evenly enough so it doesn't look ugly? Is it even possible or cost/time-effective?
• cover the headstock with a red pearl veneer - do I still need to apply a finish, and if so, before or after?

 

[Hopkins]

It appears that the headstock has a pretty nice flame maple grain pattern to it. I would sand it, dye it black, sand it back then dye it as close as you can get to the same red as the body. Then spray about 6 or 7 coats of high gloss rattle can nitro, wet sand it and buff it out to a high gloss.

 

[Technotitclan]

As always Hopkins has the answer.

 

[Stealth]

Well, that's a short and to-the-point explanation, Hopkins. Much obliged.

When you say dye, do you mean using a water-based stain? What is the purpose of the black dying, to make the grain "pop out" more before applying the red?

Additionally, the original veneer had a white spray-painted logo (a Blackletter-font brand name) I would like to reapply. Would spray-painting it using a stencil be viable, and when do I do it? After the red, before the nitro finish?

 

[ponticat]

Check this out:

http://www.talkbass.com/threads/dyeing-quilted-maple-how-to.810661/

 

[Hopkins]

Well, that's a short and to-the-point explanation, Hopkins. Much obliged.

When you say dye, do you mean using a water-based stain? What is the purpose of the black dying, to make the grain "pop out" more before applying the red?

Additionally, the original veneer had a white spray-painted logo (a Blackletter-font brand name) I would like to reapply. Would spray-painting it using a stencil be viable, and when do I do it? After the red, before the nitro finish?

Sorry I didn't go into more detail, I hate typing on my phone.

I use an alcohol based dye, which is actually a leather dye made by Fiebing's. I get it locally at Tandy Leather Factory. I have also read where people have had good luck with Rit fabric dye. What I do is dilute the dye in water, and evenly wet the headstock, then build the color up slowly. This gives an even finish without the risk of applying to much color. You are exactly right on the reason for dying black first, although it isn't totally necessary. I have also used a darker red to pop the grain first, this gives a less obvious, but more natural look to the grain.

As for the decal, you can print one out with clear, ink jet decal paper. Hobby Lobby sells a kit in the model car section made by Testors that works pretty well. Just make sure you get a couple of coats of clear down before applying the decal paper. If applied to bare wood, it will mask the wood under it and it will look different under the decal paper.

 

[Stealth]

Hopkins, ponticat, thank you both. I'll reply back once the deed is done. I just hope I can find someplace that prints white decals, as I'd rather have white text on it, as was stock.

 

[Hopkins]

Hopkins, ponticat, thank you both. I'll reply back once the deed is done. I just hope I can find someplace that prints white decals, as I'd rather have white text on it, as was stock.

You could always get sign shop to cut you one out in vinyl, just make sure to use the thinnest material they have as it will take quite a few coats of lacquer to bury it.

 

[cnltb]

plain it, clear coat it, forget it, play it.