What strings did you enjoy on your G&L SB-1?

[Ricky Rioli]

After a comically long wait, I'm finally about to get my hands on a G&L SB-1. Here it is, about to leave the factory

Since first deciding I want an SB-1, my adventures in the world of strings have gone here and there so much that I'm very as to what I'll want to string it with

I'm going to start out with GHS Boomers, a safe choice for me. After that I'm going to experiment with Chromes, Roto Bass and Swing Bass, all strings I've enjoyed previously. I definitely won't try Pro Steels (despite liking them so much on my Dimarzio-ed Squier) but for one moment, DTFs seemed like a bright idea.

Hearing about other people's experiences — what worked, what didn't, and why — would help me get my thoughts straightened out, so, please .....

 

[Rogulus]

The EXLs that G&L provide stock were plenty fine, I tried Brite flats, pressurewounds, the Daddarios just sat well, I imagine G&L use them for good reason. Enjoy your SB1, I traded mine in for an ASAT bass last week.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

The EXLs that G&L provide stock were plenty fine

I kinda knew this would come up early I've had EXLs before, on both a TRBX and a P, and I simply don't get on with them. Hence all my wondering about this and that.

Anyway, thank you for your thoughts

 

[Crispus]

I am liking GHS pressure wounds on my sb-2 right now. Took a minute to break in, but then really nice. Tuned to D standard, not sure if that means anything tone-wise. Good luck and congratulations on a beautiful bass!

 

[Nedmundo]

I have an SB-2, but almost never use the bridge pickup so functionally it may as well be an SB-1. So far, my favorite strings have been DR Fat Beams, because I like the deep, clear lows with a little stainless crunch on the high end. They aren't harsh at all, at least IMO. I think they work beautifully, so I have a couple of sets stashed away.

For awhile I've been using Dean Markleys on my M-2500, with an SR2000 set on there now. IMO they are fantastic strings, which I think would be great on the SB-2 (and just about any bass, really). Lots of clarity, heft, and balance. Truly some of the best strings I've ever used.

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

Fender 9050MLs on my SB-1.

I tried a few different kinds of strings when I first got it, but the Fenders went on and five years on I have no intention of changing them. I use a foam mute half the time, and the combination sounds great either way.

I've been more adventurous with strings on my SB-2 and L2k, so based on my overall experience with MFDs, I would be comfortable saying that Chromes and TI flats will also work well.

As for rounds, I've gravitated towards coated strings. I've tried DRs and Elixirs, but my favorite are the coated Roto Nexus strings. (Elixirs are my favorite on my Warwicks with MECs, though.)

 

[woodyng2]

I find most rw strings,especially SS ones, a bit "too much" on the 4 different GL basses I've owned.
(An sb1 not among them, but I did have a LB100, which sounded a million % better when i replaced the stock rw set with a set of chromes.)
I put labella ltfs on my jb2, and GHS pressurewounds my L1k.
I have some GHS BT nickle rws on my kiloton, which aren't bad, but am thinking of going with the Labella LTFs on that bass as well.
All of these strings have more warmth, which really seems to help keep the basses from being TOO bright.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

I find most rw strings,especially SS ones, a bit "too much"

Part of the experiment with Swing Bass will be to let them get quite old and mellow. Might work. Might sound rubbish. I'm gonna find out

 

[Slough Feg Bass]

these days I am using
D'Addario EPS160 ProSteels Bass Guitar Strings, Medium, 50-105

I like them well enough, though sometimes the high notes get a little lost in the mix, but for everything up tot he 12th fret, they sound pretty good!

 

[Bassdoggydogg]

I'd go with anything DR, and I'd stay far away from EB Slinkies. Bass boomers might be ok, but honestly do yourself a favor and go with some nickel DRs of your choice.

 

[lbbc]

The original strings that came on G&L Basses, according to my local music store owner, was SIT Power wounds. I have them on all my basses!

 

[Yahboy]

Pure nickel 7150L work well on aggressive split P pup. Or Dunlop SBN45-105 , DR Sunbeam.

 

[Grizelda100]

You probably already know this but I'm dumb and it took me a while to learn: If you are careful putting strings on and taking them off, you can (and should) save them to try on other basses or to put back on as you experiment.

Beautiful bass. Congratulations. Those MFD pick-ups are something else!

I always put La Bella Flats on a P bass. Usually 110, although you will probably need to make some set up adjustments. I hate the squeak of rounds. I like how flats sound better and mellower as they age. The stiff La Bellas are still bright enough to chime when I want to play harmonics. La Bellas don't get that chalky dry feeling as night goes on.

 

[GIBrat51]

Since I want my '78 P-Bass to sound like it's a "P-Bass with factory flats", in the late 1960's, it wears GHS's reproduction of those factory Squier flats; M3050 Precision Flats. Not quite the "mostly bottom end" thump of La Bellas - and not quite as stiff, either. Even with a mute in it's bridge cover, my P-Bass has a surprisingly clear and articulate tone. Over the years I've owned it, it's worn Roto RS77LD's; La Bella 760FL's; and Fender 9050L's. All very nice flats - which some of my other basses are wearing right now. But, the GHS P-Flats give me exactly what I want from this P-Bass...

 

[Ricky Rioli]

I'd go with anything DR, and I'd stay far away from EB Slinkies. Bass boomers might be ok, but honestly do yourself a favor and go with some nickel DRs of your choice.

I recently tried out some 45-105 Nickel Lo-Riders, expecting to be impressed by them. I found them a tiny bit soft for my taste, and they don't do a higher gauge.

My touch is too gentle to get a vibrant sound out of nicely-mannered strings, which is why the Boomers are a safe choice for me, a good place to start.

But my experience of the Nickel Lo-Riders was on a MIJ PB62 that I returned to the seller - perhaps the bass itself was short of character, perhaps an MFD and the generally vibrant G&L character would provide all the desired vibrancy.... We'll see

 

[Ricky Rioli]

I've been more adventurous with strings on my SB-2 and L2k, so based on my overall experience with MFDs, I would be comfortable saying that Chromes and TI flats will also work well.

On YouTube, some guy doing a flats comparison chose to use an SB-2! The 50-105 Chromes sound fantastic, strong and firm.

The Jamerson La Bellas sounded a bit out of place, as if they and the bass had conflicting priorities. I've a set of 760FM 49-109 waiting to find a home, but I think they would probably be best off waiting for me to acquire a more traditional P, something with more spacious sound.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

these days I am using
D'Addario EPS160 ProSteels Bass Guitar Strings, Medium, 50-105

I like them well enough, though sometimes the high notes get a little lost in the mix, but for everything up to the 12th fret, they sound pretty good!

I've been making up 50-65-85-110 sets of Pro Steels to go with a Dimarzio Model P, and I love the combination for the music I play on that bass (which never goes past the 12th fret )

The strings and the pickup seem to dovetail nicely, creating a really broad tonal range that covers all the bases. With this SB-1 I'm intended to aim for a warmer more focused sound.

Though I did have the idea of transferring sets of Pro Steels from one bass to the other, once they reach their more mellow phase....

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

On YouTube, some guy doing a flats comparison chose to use an SB-2! The 50-105 Chromes sound fantastic, strong and firm.

They're wonderful strings after a bit of break in. I've probably bought more sets of those than any other string. At the risk of getting a little OT, they're all I'll use on my acoustics, too. They really bring out the woodiness. I'm the opposite of you, though, in that I always get the lightest gauge available, which is ironic considering how much time I spent banging away w/o amplification.

 

[Ricky Rioli]

They really bring out the woodiness

I'm glad to see that word. I had a set of Chromes on a TRBX which was in dire need of some proper depth of tone. The little husky, woody edge to the sound, tho, didn't suit that clean 2-humbucker active set up. I'm curious to find out how I'll feel about that detail to the sound on the SB-1. Might annoy the socks off me there too

 

[bonin in the boneyard]

I'm glad to see that word. I had a set of Chromes on a TRBX which was in dire need of some proper depth of tone. The little husky, woody edge to the sound, tho, didn't suit that clean 2-humbucker active set up. I'm curious to find out how I'll feel about that detail to the sound on the SB-1. Might annoy the socks off me there too

I'm optimistic for you. I hope you can be patient enough with them to allow them to break in. They start out with a brightness that I would describe as cloudy (as opposed to articulate). But once that wears off, they're wonderful.