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Which Cab size for best low end...

#21
Geeeez

Alot of guys are suggesting using a 2X12 under a 4X10.

Alot of guys are also suggesting a 1X18 under the 4X10.


You want real bass response...............do what I do

Run a 1X18 UNDER a 2X12. And yes, the 18 needs power. That is why I run a 4 ohm 18 with a 8 ohm 2X12. Drive it with a B1500

Floor rumbling, pant shaking bliss
 
#22
I play a 5 string and I spend alot of time on the B string. I was skeptical of 12's at first, but I took a friends advice and I am sure glad I did. I now have a Eden 2x12 under a Eden 4x10, putting 800 watts through them and the bottom out the 2x12's is put a hole in your chest bottom.
 
#24
Ric5 said:
Run a signal into a big pa with a couple of these speakers

EL-36B.jpg
Click to expand...

I am wondering about using a folded horn with a 2x10 as a rig, anyone use a folded horn in their rig?
 
#25
KJung said:
There is very little correlation between driver size and low end response these days.

I find a good quality 410 or 212 has all the low end most would ever need assuming you want your tone slotted nicely in a mix between a bass drum and the rest of the band.

If you really need the big, super duper, deep low end... that B string fundamental, the Acme cabs (110, 210, and 410 versions) probably have the deepest bass response (-3db all the way down in the lower 30hz's). However... careful what you wish for.... it can take a lot of power and a lot of boxes to move that type of tone out into the audience without front of house support.

The key IMO is to define what you mean by 'good low end'. Does that mean a powerful, burpy low mid push, a fat, warm, even sort of low end 'pillow' under the band, or just massive deep low end rumble under your tone.

The deeper the low end you want, the more power you will need (sometimes shocking amounts).

That was my typically long winded way of saying don't assume a 212 puts out more low end than a 110. It might put out more VOLUME, but the tuning of the cab and the driver design is much more important to consider than the 'size of woofer'.

IMO and IME.
Click to expand...


Best advise there is so far. Size of the box, the number of drivers in that box, the tuning of the box in correlation with the drivers, the characteristics of those drivers, and the balance between low frequencies and the overall SPL produced are things to consider, not the size of the driver, bigger doesn't mean deeper nowdays. What some refer to as "quicker" means more response in the midrange. There is no "quicker". Any driver moves at the same speed at the same frequency as any other driver. Many confuse bass with strong low mids and midbass, 60-80 up to 200-400hz range. True low bass can muddy things up depending on how you're mixed, it can put the bass below the kick drum. It can also get the booty's shakin'.:D
 
#26
will33 said:
Best advise there is so far. Size of the box, the number of drivers in that box, the tuning of the box in correlation with the drivers, the characteristics of those drivers, and the balance between low frequencies and the overall SPL produced are things to consider, not the size of the driver, bigger doesn't mean deeper nowdays. What some refer to as "quicker" means more response in the midrange. There is no "quicker". Any driver moves at the same speed at the same frequency as any other driver. Many confuse bass with strong low mids and midbass, 60-80 up to 200-400hz range. True low bass can muddy things up depending on how you're mixed, it can put the bass below the kick drum. It can also get the booty's shakin'.:D
Click to expand...

+1 When it comes to "quickness," however, I find two aspects of a bass cabinet's performance at least as important as octave-to-octave balance: how well-damped the cones are, and well-controlled cabinet resonances are.

A driver that responds quickly to inputs, and doesn't continue to ring or resonate after the input signal changes, can sound comparatively "tight" or "quick;" house those drivers in a non-resonant cabinet, and my perception of clarity and "quickness" increases.
 
#28
Jazzdogg said:
+1 When it comes to "quickness," however, I find two aspects of a bass cabinet's performance at least as important as octave-to-octave balance: how well-damped the cones are, and well-controlled cabinet resonances are.

A driver that responds quickly to inputs, and doesn't continue to ring or resonate after the input signal changes, can sound comparatively "tight" or "quick;" house those drivers in a non-resonant cabinet, and my perception of clarity and "quickness" increases.
Click to expand...


Very much true. The rings and resonances aren't so much from the driver itself but cabinet quality as you said and also the room it's played in which can vary greatly.
 
#31
Personally, I am a big fan of 2x12s. I doubt you really need that more low end than that. And why stack a 410 on top? Just add another 2x12. These are a great at sounding punchier than a 15" cab, and the low end from a 2x12 has a much different vibe that a 410. Yes, maybe an 18" is better as a sub, but who needs that in a bass rig? If you are cranking out a bunch of volume way down low in the sub range, then your sound is going to sound like mud to the crowd. You may like the stage sound, but I doubt anyone out in the club is going to hear a clear and focused bass tone from you.
 
#35
brisonic said:
I am wondering about using a folded horn with a 2x10 as a rig, anyone use a folded horn in their rig?
Click to expand...

I sometimes use a bi-amped Cerwin-Vega B36MF fitted with 2X10'', but only if there's no FOH (and no stairs to climb...) Deepest bass you can get, like having your own PA, but at the price of an aching back when you're not careful and you'll need plenty watts (2X1000@4Ohm)
 
#37
Eden 210XST or 410XST. Its hard to beleive but the little 210XST puts out more deep bass then pretty much any 115 cab out there. It handles 500 watts and gets crazy loud. I would not have believed it until I tried one and now I have one that sits either uner my 210XLT or under my 410XLT. Its an insane cab. The 410 version handles 1000 watts and I imagine would be even better.
 
#39
tubster said:
Sorry but -1 to Jjung's post (he's not all wrong though!)

18"s are used as subs for a reason - the right driver in the right box with the right amp can produce plenty deep bass.

All this 10"s go lower than 18"s is just girly talk - get a 4x18" and live the life - I use 2 ;)!
Click to expand...
I don't know what to believe anymore. On one hand you've got companies like Ampeg and Basson making cabs with 10"s that go down to 28 hz, yet you're right that pro audio PA subs are mostly 18"s. Maybe it's an efficiency issue. Maybe you'd need way more 10"s than it's worth to do the work of a couple 18"s? I could see bass players putting up with it since we use a lot of full-range cabs that need highs as well as lows.
 
#40
bassplayershane said:
I have an Eden 410XST. 1000W of grunt and can get down to 30Hz. Great for five string. Not as heavy as my old Hartke 410XL!!!!
Click to expand...

+1

I run a 410XST under my 410XLT with a WT800.

Real Thunder no longer comes from the heavens.........It comes from my bass rig!! :D

A friend of mine runs a 115XLT underneath his 410XLT and this is also a worthy cab for lows, but not as earth shaking as my 410XST.
 

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