First, the reviewer was comparing the ART to a bunch of stomp pedal compressors, none of which are comparable to professional pedals.
Second, the reviewer was using a Strat for his test.
Third, he said of the ART "...these are just plain warm and fat... and was the poster child for the 'Isiton?' award".
Excuse me? "Warm and fat" means that it is colored. If it's colored, you can easily tell that it's on. Judging by these and other statements throughout the review, the guy has spend a lot more time reading magazine ads than using professional compressors.
Also note that his ART died, and he seems to be reviewing his memory of the unit, rather than how it actually sounds in comparison to the other pedals.
Look, I'm glad you like the ART. But how many other compressors have you used? All opinions are not created equal.