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Which for more stiff feeling without going heavier?
- Thread starter maturanesa
- Start date
Probably so they don’t need to file the nut for wider gauge. Once you go wider, you can’t go back. I stick with the same gauge strings so I don’t need to modify the nut as well.
There is no problem using one or two gauges thinner than what the nut is filed for. Otherwise you would not be able to use .095 and .105 E strings on the same standard bass.
And there is always the option to fit a new nut. Pretty small job.
Yes but they want more tension. So if all current options don’t have enough tension they would have to go up to a larger gauge. So the nut would have to be re slotted for larger strings.
And as said in my other post they probably don’t want to touch the nut. Which I can understand.
Now if it’s so easy to file a nut are you offering to do it for them for free? Filing a nut takes some experience and skill, that not everyone has, myself included.
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What I meant was that you can make the slots larger and still go back to a thinner gauge without changing the nut. That is the same as going down a gauge on any other bass, which is very common to do.
Yes but maybe they don’t have experience slotting nuts and don’t want to do that. This is the second time I’ve said this now.
AK Bass Guy said:
Yes but they want more tension. So if all current options don’t have enough tension they would have to go up to a larger gauge. So the nut would have to be re slotted for larger strings.
And as said in my other post they probably don’t want to touch the nut. Which I can understand.
Now if it’s so easy to file a nut are you offering to do it for them for free? Filing a nut takes some experience and skill, that not everyone has, myself included
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OK, I thought your argument was that they didn't want to file the nut BECAUSE "you can't go back". But you can, so the only issue is the filing itself, not changing to a nut with narrower slots again.
And yes, of course that could be an issue. But having someone filing the nut can't cost a lot. Takes 5 minutes or something.
Whatever. My point is that IMO it should be worth it to go up in gauge instead of searching for "stiffer" strings with the same gauge. If nothing else because they are not gonna have more tension, just be less flexible.
Stiffer than the same gauged Roto Monels?
What construction would achieve that with the Magma Flats? Is the core larger?
I'm curious too. I came across another thread here in which the Magma Flats were described as fairly flexible. I find it hard to imagine much of anything, gauge for gauge, beating Rotosound 77 for lack of flexibility.
That's exactly what I put on my TRBX605 this afternoon, in the hopes that it'd be less floppy than the factory .130 B string, and although I don't have a lot to compare them to, I've been satisfied so far. They look good, feel good, sound good, and a bit less floppy. Now I need to practice more
I ordered a 45-126 gauge (same 45-125 magma) ghs precision flats which are true flats.
Hoping the tension feel being more stiff without an actual tension increment that bend my squier VM P-5 neck.
Thanx
Hoping the tension feel being more stiff without an actual tension increment that bend my squier VM P-5 neck.
Thanx
D
If stiffness is the ONLY deciding factor I can't think of any stiffer strings than Roto 77 flats (when comparing the same gauges). Whether you will like them or not is a different matter. Personally I love them, but tonally (and also dynamically) they're very different from other flats. They are sort of in-between flats and rounds but different than both. For better or worse, they are very unique strings. Some people love them, others hate them.
Tonally, Roto flats are all about their lovely mids. You can forget about any classic FAT flatwound "thump". Roto flats won't do that. The monel wrapping also give them a rather low output, which may or may not matter.
It's also worth noting that Roto flats kinda become "more Roto flats" with the heavier gauges. At 45-105 or heavier they are "100% Roto". At lighter gauges, like 40-100, the slightly more supple feel make them behave SLIGHTLY closer to other strings. Personally I use the 45-105 set. When installing heavier gauge Rotos it is VERY important to give the bass a full setup. The stiffness means they can handle a slightly lower action and a slightly straighter neck than most other strings. If you don't make these adjustments Roto flats can be very hard on your fretting hand. When set up properly they can be wonderful strings (depending on personal taste/playing style).
Tonally, Roto flats are all about their lovely mids. You can forget about any classic FAT flatwound "thump". Roto flats won't do that. The monel wrapping also give them a rather low output, which may or may not matter.
It's also worth noting that Roto flats kinda become "more Roto flats" with the heavier gauges. At 45-105 or heavier they are "100% Roto". At lighter gauges, like 40-100, the slightly more supple feel make them behave SLIGHTLY closer to other strings. Personally I use the 45-105 set. When installing heavier gauge Rotos it is VERY important to give the bass a full setup. The stiffness means they can handle a slightly lower action and a slightly straighter neck than most other strings. If you don't make these adjustments Roto flats can be very hard on your fretting hand. When set up properly they can be wonderful strings (depending on personal taste/playing style).
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They said ghs flats are extremely high tension. But i already have them and they are great
That does not answer my question.
Why don't you get strings with the high tension you want, and adjust the trussrod accordingly?
All I’ve ever read on TB and elsewhere suggests Roto77 are the stiffest flats alive. Pipping even the 0760M La Bella’s in the stiffness stakes. I’ve used the 0760M’s and they are stiff. I have only ever used the single Roto77 .050 gauge by way of comparison. It felt appeare to be comparable to the 0760M .052 using the ‘hold the strings at the ball end and see which has least bend’ test
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