After about 5 minutes of hand sanding, my neck and shoulders hurt and I always feel like I didn't do a good enough job.
So, yeah, I guess I'm in the same boat.
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Winter Build Off 2022 - Explorer Bass
- Thread starter Flamingo21
- Start date
So, yeah, I guess I'm in the same boat.
Although it's tedious, I've always enjoyed the sanding process because you start to really see the instrument come to life.
Or maybe I just lie to myself to escape from boredom. One of the 2
Or maybe I just lie to myself to escape from boredom. One of the 2
Those are some sporty little beach penguins hiding in the control cavity
The plexiglass comes covered in an adhesive that's easy to draw on, and you can cut it and drill it with the adhesive still on. This makes the stuff easy to work with.
This may be my first ever action shot:
Tadaaa!
This may be my first ever action shot:
Tadaaa!
Freshly cut plexiglass has a distinctive smell, which I surprisingly found quite enjoyable. Should I see a doctor about this?
I've watched a lot of videos of people who aren't doctors, explaining medical stuff and lecturing over the last 2 yrs, so I'm basically a doctor.
You can listen to me.
You can listen to me.
It baffles me that manufacturers include these small screws with strap pins. Don't these people know that we must hang ten pound objects from these pins?
On the right, a screw that came with the strap pins. It bites in only 16mm of wood. On the left, the screw I use instead.
On the right, a screw that came with the strap pins. It bites in only 16mm of wood. On the left, the screw I use instead.
I don't know! I just took a quick look through some paperwork and emails, but I can't find what exactly I ordered. My guess is it's a no name brand I ordered through Tonefactory, a Dutch webshop.
I use the vintage Forge "Oversized Large" buttons. And yeah, the screws on those are shorter than you'd think they would be. But I also think the screw is a larger diameter, which also helps. I haven't had any problem with them, and the larger button head means my strap is less likely to come off the button. The guitar sized ones freak me out.
As long as the screw is made of decent material, has the right thread and the pilot hole is right, 1/2" into the wood is more than enough.
Only the crappiest of screws and/or softest wood would really be a concern.
Only the crappiest of screws and/or softest wood would really be a concern.
Years and years ago the Rolls-Royce engineering labs carried out a bunch of testing and determined that, for steel bolts and holes tapped into steel, virtually all of the load is carried by the first three threads. You always use bolts longer than that for other reasons, but it doesn’t increase the load capacity.
It would be interesting to repeat that test for screws into wood. I’d bet the load gets distributed across more threads because wood is more flexible, but the point of diminishing returns still comes quickly.
It would be interesting to repeat that test for screws into wood. I’d bet the load gets distributed across more threads because wood is more flexible, but the point of diminishing returns still comes quickly.
True, but on the other hand the longer screw has a more substantial thread (not sure if that's the right word) so I trust it more.
I think I'm rather panicky about screws. For the neck joint I'm deviating from my all black hardware theme, and using thicker and longer screws that I can only get in chrome colour.
I think the most important factor with the wood screw is the proper diameter pilot hole so the maximum amount of thread bites in, but it isn't too much pressure internally.
Yeah I think a trip to el Janky hardware is on the bill. I have 2 small bits that are not .125" (standard size for rivets)
I must do mostly car stuff....
